bgd73

the hitachi functioning like new at 20 below zero is incredible. I don't know as a simpler carb would be as smart. I used to get right into the holleys for v8s and they all had problems. The hitachi just simply doesn't have the same probs. I did spot some webers out there, even new ones. A bit steep for price, but I would no doubt use one.

no I didn't. I have the engine out and was looking it over. Maybe the head itself was leaking. I want to tear it down and rebuild. Oil leaks did not justify consumption- there was hardly anything to notice, except for my sloppy mess (spills). even the cam seals were doing good. Must be rings and valve seals. Upon figuring the math for timing, regardless of length of belt, shouldn't those two gears be in the same spot? It seems as though this has a delay built in. If cams are exactly the same, this really is an off timer.The right side was quite sound, the left one (drivers side) wasn't- I even mentioned that I thought the exhaust was opening too soon on driver side head with a thread I posted here some time back. It was definately an exhaust valves problem and I shrugged it off as a belt anomoly. If to align them - leaving passenger one where it is and matching the driver side to it- intake would open sooner and exhaust later, on the driver side head right? This engine is from a sedan, is the wagons sprockets the same? by the manual the sedans at 84 hp and I don't know how they reduced it from 90 on same bore and stroke, intake and cams. Just a guess. There was a crazy snappy oddity about this engine in the 2wd and I never figured it out. Ruling out some thoughts, hope to gain some insight on the inner workings of this engine beyond repair/replace stuff (such as slightly porting heads and intake at both cylinder heads).

Are these sprockets misaligned? The inner one is in a different spot than outer. I had heard an exhaust type noise, like a pipe leak, from drivers side exhaust valves. I knew the belts were new and timed correctly with proper tension. Could this be a cause? or is it exactly correct and I overlooked something else.The drivers side belt is longer, so anomolies if any do happen do there quite easily.

The 1/4 ratchet is good for clamps that aren't oem-- I ended up using 3/8s for that too. I use an adapter for the 3/8ths to 1/4 and small extension.and its one less tool to lose (I lose the 1/4 ratchet nore than a 3/16th axle pin punch). Just seeing that on the end of a 3/8ths reminds me to go easy. and it goes to same places as the little one. I did add the axle punch- I have used that on other things. The 14mm ratchet wrench is very good idea. The 14's are everywhere! After 20 years of tightened bolts, I try 6 point first if it means hammering the socket on. Great posts thank you - good for everybody For a lube stuff I don't have the pb but similar. I end up just snapping the tough stuff dry, as the head of the bolt/nut lubed and 3 days to wait for it to work seemed ineffective. I can keep the whole toolbox at home now - tuck this stuff in a wrench type bag in the sides of the back of wagon.

I don't have much for tools, and it occurred to me - it was a question I asked when I got my first old soob in 1997: "What tools do I need?" So here is my list would love for someone to add to it for the ultimate old sube toolkit. visegrips, large and small more than one of each is even better. 3/8 inch driver (socket wrench) 14mm deep, shallow, six and 12 point socket, and wrench 12mm like above 10mm like above 17mm like above 19mm wrench 6 point for 1/2 inch driven stuff (socket wrench): breaker bar c/v nut (size? I have the 1/2 inch driven socket but forgot.) crank pulley socket (again, I have it forgot size) fork puller for tie rod ends, ball joints (never used one, but it is a good idea to have it) philips and regular- big and small (#2 and #3 bit) roof rack tools (move the rails around) tire lug wrench anything but an oem jack 22oz hammer- mastered to be big 22oz or dainty 22oz large prybar I honestly tore apart an entire sube and back together again with above tools at a minumum. I must be forgetting something.. help me put the ulimate lightweight, minumum toolkit together. For wrenches and sockets any brand with lifetime guarantees is worth the extra dollars- Sears and Napa are very convenient as examples, they instantly give you a new version of what you broke if you bring it to them.

I like the hitachi. As plagued as it may get- it is because we let it. Cleaning a needle valve out and changing the entire stochiometric curve doesn't necassarily need an ecu- The electric choke and its adjustments is a must have. Any "after" electric chokes on the market that fit hitachi? I know coils break in all of them eventually...

old truck mat cut to shape! I am using one I made for my sedan... (same "trunk" as wagon) I haul anything that fits and must be cleanable .

I won't be rebuilding this one, it is destroyed. Here is the very last photo. I had a pause of silence for a very good 18months and long drives and countless errands....13 years old and was going very strong. "Only the good die young" "Brainless camaro drivers keep living"

federal mogul is another one. I didn't seek them out at Advance auto, it is what was given. They have proven to me to do very good. Any bad brands some may know of (besides some OEM)? As far as pressing bearing races - a press really ought to do the job. you can get an out of alignment race while bearing stays straight, and it will reveal this randomly with wobbles. If to save money doing yourself (of course!) maybe pound them out on your own and have a pro perpendiculate those in correctly, evenly for cooler longer lasting bearings. Use the synthetic high temp grease repacking tham- it is quite impressive for the few dollars more than regular.

I agree. I really started liking my old "half-ton" suspension DL (joke) and the softness it was gaining after 15 years or so. Didn't even think about replacing the struts. It was just right with time. I did notice gl's are softer from the beginning.

Here is an example of what does not work with a hitachi carb. 4-7 psi facet. I bought this in an emergency side of the road repair job in a friendly landowners driveway. Strangely enough I bought another with advice form an advance auto parts expert and the same pressure worked even better than oem with the different pump given. Will post that one soon. I can't remember brand names. It was a large pump that hung off the fuel pump plate and ran literally silent for 40 bucks. I am assuming this one with "posi-flow" had no passive and caved something in at the carb. I had to prime it to start, but once running there was plenty of pressure.

Quicker than an 80's hubcap thief in the bronx . Off it goes to salvage later today. Any last second parts I didn't think of?

The "tin can" sedan left all of it alone. If that were another vehicle I would be hurting. I glided to a stop, had hands on the wheel.Even pressed the brakes and saw the bright bulb of a lense broken, no wobbles. I was surprised to see the car still going straight in the spot the steering wheel normally sits. The body bent all around it .That is why I kept the stuff 4wds are known to eat here from this one. I am letting the tranny go with the car- It may show up in some junk yard national inventory. I ate this car with no means for liability. Just have to grit my teeth so to speak and let it go. This 2wd is still my favorite with the little ea82 . I saved stuff normally alot to pay for or hard to get decently. Thanks for this threads responses- I don't talk much about an unpopular old sube to many except for here. It is funny the opposites I encounter with opinions sometimes- this place helped me get over the stupidity that prevailed. I may have even more to babble about with the 87 gl just purchased... there seems to be a power steering leak someplace low.....

That was a hard hit! The right fender has a powerful move in the middle. not a good sign for easy unibody repair. It took for me a fender off and radiator out, etc to find the movement that made it to the firewall. Of course that means the car is all done. hopefully you got lucky and it didn't move on the side of towers closest to firewall and it stayed in front of engine cross member. I like those wheels are they 13inch?

Thought of this post when I was tearing the engine apart. The ball bearing could be this in photo (pressure relief?).

I coincidentally just posted in classified section. I have mounts from a 1993 and linkage- 2wd 5spd. all was well before the wreck and still appears to be good. Had no problems at all. I didn't even spot weather cracks. pm me if interested or my email bgd1973@hotmail.com mailing mounts would be realistic enough.

I spotted the trunk lid out of alignment for the sube on the tracks... must be like that from new I saw a 4wd sedan recently. It passed me with a whole different height than my 2wd (now wrecked ) I must be getting old for only 30 something- 1987 is when I got my drivers license, and it doesn't seem all that long ago.

My daily usmb support group thread. Today I took out entire tower assembly- axles attached both sides,with lower arms. gas tank , y-pipe, rear hubs, fuel pump, brake booster and cylinder, power steering rack, and 4 wheels. 3 hours or so Found some hidden rust on the 93 gas tank. I kept it remembering a failure on my friends GL 10 years ago when it was only 9yrs old (I just bought one that is 19yrs) . so keeping the regular stuff killed by rust and maine roads is a must do for the non-existent sube. Will have a 2wd 5spd tranny out of the car, ready to go , very light to carry- for $50 and you pickup.I'll even throw in the shiny new muffler that cost me 40 (perfect for sedan- 2 months old)! I have 10 straight wheels now

If I were to meet you in real life. ....would we babble until friendly or a knockdown argument Anyway, once again. The world is not my place, and neither is yours. Problems unique encountering each other can bring prejudicial opinionated facts with out any real truth to stand on. The previous statement is exactly why presidents like Bush go to Iraq. "reality for me" was a great thing to say there. It is the same to say for myself. The hitachi carb on the 87 just purchased is in thorough detail in a chiltons. The adjustments are something I remember. Very simple carb, problems could only be quick to find- unless there is a 2 headed 3 way egr system I haven't ever seen again like on my dl (thankfully). This GL should be a breeze. Anyone use the 5-7lb fuel pump on the carbed sube? I had great results with it on my other 87. Gained power and fuel mileage. Once again, different than a manual with facts, I went about it my own way successfully. The book states 3.3 lbs pressure for the 2bbl 328 hitachi. That is odd. I bet the sube pump is proprietary numbers, unlike the 5-7 lb which is everywhere. Even the idle got thumpier, low end, etc. Upopn other carbs cfm similar, the 5lb pump is thier norm. I am certain after running spfi and carb, Subarus conservative side was pushing the limits, rather than the approach to give it all it can handle. Oh- the egr will be plated. will post a 1600x1200 size macro view of it just for you GD

GD: It was in fact a flawed egr. Do you need scientific evidence? there is a special place you can stick your cars exhaust pipe, to experiment and then see how fast you run to get away by instinct.. except it is a never ending supply of exhaust pipe, and you run faster to get away and it feeds this special spot the pipe is CRAMMED with even more , so you run faster to get away...and it feeds it even more....then you can't breathe and the finale is a 9000 rpm fireball of toxic purple aluminum flaming your experimental AREA. Get it? you call it metaphor. I call it analogy.

Evidence? you sound like a state trooper who lets the drunk guy who sped off get away because he didn't see it for himself. I am done talking about it. I am in no mood for my integrity to be challenged. Truth prevails, I am by no means upset.You can find the precious egr stuff I chucked in the forest. after a 300 mile trip lets both get out of our cars and see who can jog the farthest. Me with no egr and you with it. Is that what you need? Do you like to get high in your sube with windows up? I have not been in one yet that didn't squeeze its own crap out back at me in the cabin while egr is said to be good and sealed and functioning correctly. the worst for me in Maine is when the ground is frozen. I counted on the top end stenches people in the car shouldn't get. I have even vomited before fixing it forever - by getting rid of it. do you want my EGR vomit in a doggy bag? If I get a brand new vehicle with similar design as this old sube EGR, I am chucking it again as bad parts. The engine doesn't stay down in flow all year.Long before I got one, I had learned of the bad boxer flows for subarus in very cold weathers like maine. Mid summer in the 70's summer breeze seems to be perfect for egr. Not where I live. In fact this sube I just got had the stuff removed professionally somewhere along the line. I am glad. I don't have to. Stop the prejudice opinionations. I could care less if egr is good or bad where you live, it is to the point of dangerous at times where I do.To scientifically prove egr burnt the clock and heater resistors from the other side of the firewall, I am sure, would not be impossible with monitoring of temps of two vehicles, one with and one without egr. It all starts as top end heat.and it has "stuff" in that invisible flow, no doubts about it. maybe even radioactively charged particles with plug wires in the air for all I know. Back to thread... any 93 loyale wiring diagrams? I found a supplement fsm on the web.. does that get added to this generation subaru with only differences noted? if so, I will grab it while it is for sale.

that is very decent considering liability issues. A friend we called "fathead" after a bad accident had no clue he could have been payed for his injuries. His head stayed that way for weeks and he kept going, denied hospital. You have a great friend there!

got the engine out solo. sawz alls are good:) dragged it to its storage place. tomorrow: 2wd tranny and axles. exhaust.

I found that too, in my loyale. Something out at the tranny and the and at the clutch. I suppose to save one switch for neutral on the clutch and the other seems to be a switch connecting vs disconnecting so wiring it up direct could still have a neutral switch. (?) possibly?

excellent site! I spotted the white wagon gl/loyale- Do you know if it is dual range?