bgd73

if the engine is dynamical, this should be easy... here is an interesting site mentionoing some of the ways to variate what the goal is. http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/vres.htm The question to me is how dynamical are the preset changes in the heater engine. 1 would have to variate to 2, which will variate,and on to maximum, all rheostatically- if to use original blower. I remember messing with a "101 electronics kit" when I was 10, that had the variator type stuff for a lights brighness, it was quite simple. Maybe just hook it all up to the blower motors "4" or high position and see how far it variates without the other wires. Although, using all of it would be good for engine? That same site mentioned gives a good rundown on typical circuit parts/electronics. What Subaru put together in the resistor block is quite cheap. There are several combinations to get what they want, but a sloppy means to do so. The resistor I put in really does take the edge off of another failure,functioning either direction, and no coils to trap stuff is a bonus.With what I just read, there is a means to get that with a small circuit, seperating the sloppiness a bit more. subaru must have figured the engine could take such changes, without all that much precision. Maybe to overlap it as a buffer of tolerance. Maybe it is smarter than I can figure, and I am babbling out of boredom..

go direct line oil guage, aftermarket. found several. use the burnt out clock area, or even behind see thru plastic of speedo. the electric ones seem to wander - for oil pump mishaps, i dont like it. the thermal readings electric are very good. could even wire up a light and switch in clock area with clock wiring. its an idea.... the factory go with the gl type dash is a nuisance. I remeber telling my friend one day "that stupid cluster rusted your whole car" and it never worked right! I don't think they no what I meant, and I really don't care if they did.

epoxy based alpine white! Phosphourescent illumination that will take a 12 guage shotgun pellets. Don't hesitate to set your coffee on it, jump on the hood, throw rocks... and oh, thats just everyday life. Black is opposite my favorite... but you did ask opinions. The white soobs have a special meaning... It was one of few subaru colors historically. where they all have black trim, acheiving contrast and looks is easiest with white.

Time to make an omelet!

Wo! Theres an idea! I don't think a Cadillac would even have that one. If to do so, the resistor block wiring has everything to do with it? or is the heater engine set for simple changes, Hi-Lo, and a setting inbetween? How rheostatical can it be? I recently took apart a house fan with 3 speeds, and the wiring to change speed was built right into the engine. Finding the four wires for heater motor, I assumed the aforementioned non-rheostat ability.

The first exhaust I broke is on a 4x4. If the car is obviously low, there seems to be a trigger to keep am extra sight open to low things, like curbs, etc.

This fix worked for me. By the time I was done breaking the brittle stuff away, it left nearly a straight shot between way points. I put in yet another resistor to take some of the heat. Just like almost not quite like new! Of course I wouldn't recommend, but it did stay cool enough to hold low temp solder, with extra resistor, taking my concern away about no coils to cool like the one on left in photo. The resistor is for a Zalman 12volt pc fan- 56ohm, tricking it into a 5volt mode. I had a hunch it would help this scenario of burning the resistor coils in the car.Time will tell, I just fixed it and let it run on one and two, and even put my finger near or on what was left to see if it would hold, and it did.With my engine cooler as a bonus, and the resistors getting direct air installed, I personally am keeping it as a fix. Like a 10ohm radio shack resistor in the ecu!

I have got two bad 1 and 2. Common place for the fan switch, my loyale is a roaster. what were the numbers of resistence? would voltage regulator work? a hak at it? if original is broken all the time, there must be something stronger...Is the photo below the part referred to? A critter mad an adobe mud house out of it:

I found a junked Legacy getting parted out.... It is so tempting to make a mess out of yard that doesn't belong to me. That swap with some extra mods I thought of to stay 2wd in a Loyale would be incredible. I find many, including ebay, but Here is another link for engines: http://actionsalvage.com/engine/UsedEngineSubaru.asp

How true... I just look for chunks missing. Nothing yet. I learned this on older cars with same crappy cork rubber. they either disintegrate or petrify perfectly. They all needed retightening.As long as nothings missing, I am at petrified/chunking stage. There is still some squish, I have no worries just yet about failure.The tighter it gets, the less chance anyway. I like the steel dome of an oil pan on this engine, for reasons I don't even want to babble.As long as that has no dents.

I have taken my 2wd up a granite faced mountain and parked on the edge of a 700ft tall cliff.. and there goes daeron smashing his underside in the big city.. I have hung the bumper over the edge, to stand up and look at the underside of the car. this photo is parked back a foot or two.

they are slicked up from leaks. The valve cover bolts stay tight the longest (rubber grommet). The oil pan could be conquered now, if not, I will use some lock tite of some sort. The cam casings tighten with a "crak" noise, leading me to believe the engine really did change density... It does happen, even on cast iron blocks (in Maine anyway).Aluminum is very responsive to thermal, regardless of how tough they made it. Thanks for replies..

a mellow resistor?

3 main bearings have a 60 year time in this world to prove mechanics and those that prove 3 main bearing a world record breakin durability. They are still in aircraft......

When in doubt replace them. It is a noise to clearly indicate it.Go for another brand aside from subaru, if after cleaning old ones, they look pitted or yellowish. I went though this on my 2wd. The 4wd's may have got some bad too, especially if you find they are greased well.The after brand was at least looking like steel bearings.

I helped build a house on the canadian border... a freak tornado ripped it to shreds. In that area at the time, I had a 74 chevelle that ran off the header, and not one person had much concern for the 11:1 fire breathing dragon rumbling around the town of Fort Kent. CraAaAzY Suzam: it is no doubt one slipping though the cracks of an auction or accident falsely documented. I found a dealer I knew, that does the auction stuff, and at least he is a no bullsh*tter about what is truly good and not. We do have to be careful as money saving consumers...

I most definately agree.I bet it is a gray area, and being taken advantage of. I have seen this countless times. I even bought one, with low miles, eating tires among other clues that finally gave me an epiphany. This area (above massachusetts)... anything goes all the way through thr woods of Maine.. Learned it a loooong time ago. You should see some of the vehicles on the road here, all the way to tractor trailers- like a mad max movie out loud.

I found some swaps on another forum. A 2wd if not mistaken, getting treated like a rally car with larger turbo etc. The one above does have a dimpled a-pillar, that could equal inches at the other end... coincidentally with a different color fender on. If they had unibody alignment written in paperwork, it would be unrespectable price still. EA82 forever. I have found a local dealer whose integrity would put that ebay ad to shame. Some day, after I never get tired of an ea82... I will most likely go wagon of sorts.

I found this as local to me as it gets: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-Subaru-Impreza-NO-RESERVE-ONE-OWNER_W0QQitemZ330030303132QQihZ014QQcategoryZ31868QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I saw a dent in the rear window pillar and thought: twisted unibody. I had a 96 corsica, same dent, and BROKEN FIREWALL (<- that means totalled). Is this car worth it? Upon checking out the ej18 on internet search, the first thing I found was a broken crankshaft! How is this car?

I went through half quart of oil in 200 miles, I should be smokin like an exterminator. but I wasn't. So I checked oil pan bolts, cam casing, valve covers. It was soaked to the point of a drop waiting to happen of my new oil.They all took yet more tightening casually.the first go with this was several full turns on the oil pan bolts about 25k ago. They only took half/.75 turns now. I hope i am winning the old neglected gasket that was soaked due to loose bolts. I even thought the engine shrunk all parts after keeping it much cooler without egr, and better intake, and even vented the front grill/bumper.Does bad mains vibrate the engine apart? Or am I overthinking....

I was hoping the 3 main bearings... I could assume not. if it is just a small version of the 4 cammed over-valved giants, it is a ridiculous engine. I have seen this before, I wondered if it was at the paris show last year.. My memory is horrible.

I saw this and thought it interesting. 1.5 liter boxer.. anybody know details? http://carscoop.blogspot.com/2006/09/paris-show-2007-subaru-impreza-15r.html

possible timing belt. the driver side is a common first belt to go fail. The 7 flashes, from what I can find show it as a spec indicating "AT,Federal and Canada" Auto trans, non-calif. emmissions. Correct?

daeron: If your spinning in wet, the torque to the ground has many angles. A high suspension, bad suspension, alignment, among other things can cause it.The lower the better if you want to grip better. A 2wd is easy, 4wds have to stay up a bit more.My 2wd was an accident waiting to happen when I first got it. Suspension was too high in the front, giving it throttle gave it yet another weak angle to be riding the tire towards edges instead of full tread flat on the ground. The fatter the tire reveals it in any old soob. A softer sidewall can help, but lowers ratings. I bet the kumhos at an "80" is pretty good to conform (185/80/13). Anybody know of any better?

Compression test no doubt, don't prejudice the bubbles, there are many ways to get them. A system low on fluid to full, can burp those for a few minutes. To get gas oil and antifreeze all in one place is definately to think gaskets first. It could be worse than gaskets, but your engine is still running- assume gaskets at least. I had an ea82 recover an episode like yours entirely, not as extreme as alot of smoke, but similar- never replaced anything. I assumed something liked to stay "wet" and checked fluid more often.I thought the engine was stronger than ever after that.