bgd73

however much the ecu monitors gadgets.. there is a scenario where valve can actually be bad, and the electrical one stays good, triggering no CEL at all. The EGR valve below ca'nt seal closed. My 2wd has been a lunatic/"EGR pig" for many years with no CEL light on....Problem unknown until I got my intuition going with it. When it was seated as much as it could, hard throttle forced it open on its own. no matter what some may do with this stuff to keep it oem, there is a line to be drawn. I have drawn mine. It will never be on my ea82 ever again...

I found those, must be a year ago now, and to date, I have found nothing in comparison. The price is very cheap! I need oversize and high rated- the kumho is only one apparently. In the sites review area, there are cars heavier that used them, with good reviews. To go easier than not on a lighter subaru loyale, those rating numbers should be even higher. I hope to go with them.. but ordering from the net seems extreme I did get a glimpse of the sumitomos, but by the time the undersizing has the engine at 5k rpm, thier speed rating isn't even needed for me :-\ My 2wd could seriously use a 6th or taller fth gear.... big tires is the easy way out.long trips, low rpms, and speeding right along at mid 30's mpg, all behind my favorite boxer... if you passed me you would see me singing with a coffee mug in my hand.

I found this , would love opinions or an even better tire... http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Touring+A%2FS+795&vehicleSearch=false&partnum=88SR3TAS795W&fromCompare1=yes&place=0 oh, here is link to speed/ weight ratings (I put this in my favorites!) http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35

Hey I got an idea too... after the 5 dollar manual and an ability to read from ebay satisfies all basic how-tos. "The truth of the Loyale" -uncut edition for 2 dollars more! complete with unintentional cursing and stuff! that would be great! chapters like "How to scrap EGR" or "How to fix the exhaust" showing how to move the flex joint just below the gear shifter towards the back of the car, to avoid yet another exhaust poisoning! or even some wild and crazy chapters "How to make a cold intake boot" or "How to save an old coil" - with specifics noone talks about, like grounding on the loyale (<-that could be a whole other chapter!) or "What to do with the burnt clock" there's guage ideas, where to run wires all kinds of spiffy neat stuff... or this would be my favorite final chapter "What is the pig, and how do you kill it?"

missing a few bolts?

It stays quieter to the outside world, while giving the engine a true performance gain. <- Could someone take this fact in the name of something powerful, and tell all ricers and even wrx owners? :-\ I wonder if a "bgd73 exhaust system" for 19.95 would sell....

why not!

ok. I just went and did it. A half inch drill gun, and a dull 2 inch hole saw bit and 3 hours later.... If this isn't ready for an ej22 swap, it never will be..... Forgive bad photo, my fuji finepix is headed for disaster.. The results are good. I tested with a bic lighter while fan was running and it sucked at the flame in front of vents.strangely the a/c fan which is on drivers side, sucked more at the passenger side vent. So any forward movement at all is feeding it happily.I got a wiff of old antifreeze after a run. It has been squeezing drops out thru the cold and warm (stays tight when warm) since I got it. I hit the dead spot I was after. At 75mph on my speedo ( it is actually 87mph in my car), the front gets stiff and steering wheel is a tad tougher. I turned the bumper into a wing- slight nose down, acts heavier.The temps even on my bad rad did better noticably. All ready for 6th gear and a salt bed to launch this rocket to 180.

ok. its going on midnight , and I have released the final cut of my loyale vid.... http://videos.streetfire.net/video/08aeb50a-752d-4dd7-82ca-983d016b95c4.htm a bit of humor....

It is all clean. It was my obsession for quite some time. It took 3 degreasings with "bombs away" and a flame throwing degreaser machine powered by kerosene. It did melt my skin . got the job done however, after a long time rinsing, engine/engine bay and everything nearby was a different shade of color.It is as if the front end and engine went thief for every disgusting, goopy sticky, electrically charging repulsive smelling, tougher-than-paint chemicals known to man. That was just the EGR valve... Anyway, the circles in photo have a square opening behind them, with a bracket looking bend convenient for mini- foglights or what have you for ideas.With the ingenuity I have seen here at usmb , I am curious to know if that really had a purpose, and if someone ever utilized it. oh, the 87 dl grill is in my loyale now. Going for 20 yrs ...I think it will make it.

Can I drill in the ares of the two circles to match the openings in back of the bumper. I caught a glimpse of an older cavalier chevy rs and the bumper not only had holes, they were finned like a front grill would be... I may avoid a half functioning radiators problems yet...I also only posted half a dozen times today , in comparison to the normal 20. I would count this as the very last chore....if I can get away with it. I am still wanting a 2 core radiator, but time is several weeks.

I love quibbles about factory numbers."Inflated" about a cars top end is for 18 year olds.My car is labeled wrong, speedo is wrong, the diff gear doesn't give results like a 3.9 is supposed to , my radio didn't even match factory color codes. I have learned the rear end missing alone on this so called 84 hp sedan is phenomonal. To understand with a common comparison.. turn on the a/c in an ea82.. feel how much it takes? Now consider the 4wd ..long driveshaft (hefty little bugger mind you)with a bouncing split in the middle to the rear end pumpkin with a side gear lsd stuff etc, two more transaxles and a couple of more bends wiggling around, never to be a straight easy line. Another point I can't emphasize enough is the egr stuff.That removed brought the little engine to 7000 rpm before I chose to let off... I called about a dyno test for the 2wd I am running. If the numbers end up the same, the curve to acheive them is no doubt faster- always affecting the other end of true power in the real world, substantially.Subaru and its documentation of the ea82 stuff is damn near dangerous in the case of my car. I have mentioned it already. The only thing holding me back from "needle buried" is my realistic fear that a 13inch tire is going to shred.I *have to* let off the throttle. The highest rating I found was 115mph. The ones I have are only 85mph. The gl-10 turbo, by oem math, should be the fastest, but the rear end on normal terrain is a huge drag for 1781cc, turbo'd or not. The 2wd is a winner in the speed category, the differential needs to be taller to prove it.

That year with turbo may have had the 3.4 diff, the tallest ever put behind an ea82. 148 could have been right on the money, accurately. That is the driveline I am after... not so much for the turbo engine, but to put behind an n/a for everyday driving, very casually highway, lowering rpms on the tall diff final ratio.Taking abit longer to get to an outrageous top end, but to me the only place I creep up past the speed limits is on long straight a ways on long trips... having a calm engine would be even better.As it stands now, my cars speedo is acting like a 3.9 (very accurately off to be a 3.9 final), with a 3.7 result.The 3.454 info was found at cars101.com and the pdf file from this forum, only seen on the gl-10. It is a rarity. Seemingly like my 2wd 5spd is being found oem.I would love to put the 3.454 on a 2wd.. there would be no doubts to be the mathematically correct ingredients to be the fastest ea82 *ever*.

nothing bolts related. being n/a the compression is high enough to reveal that problem with the starter, cold idle, engine braking,etc. The mains seem a good answer, my first intuition. This engine really can do that for a long time. There is no hollows at any given point in a revolution, to defy balance enough to be annoying and loud, self destructing. The cold idle would reveal a sloppy engine, like it is, due to the air not being correct like on a warm engine. I have inquired of this previous to this post. I heard a turbo 1988 soob spark up after sitting a month or more, just as silent and noiseless as I am accustomed to hearing the EA82, and I thought of my sloppy one- still not repairs anywhere on the engine, no waterpump, gaskets, oil pump, nothing. Not even the starter. Something is inevitable, I would assume fuel pump. My old 87 got a bit noisy into cold weather one year from same area this one is, and on a cold October day the fuel pump quit, and then I lost a timing belt at the same time. I am uncertain what to do with this one, as it has been making low end noise cold since I got it.

I never thought of that. Clutch did have some probs a year ago in hot summer. I have the 5spd. That could explain not being able to pinpoint exact origin, engine is very strong for its mileage. If an engine bearing wre shot, it would at least be burning more oil, right?.....

Thanks for repeating my posts purpose and answer. I'll forget what I posted and go back and do it again with your advice and answer the answer I already accomplished (scroll up a few threads):cool: . I have inquired of this before.. the actual question of how fast is difficult on my car. That site I mentioned helped. It hit the nail right on the head. The .783 5th gear is very tall for a little engine.. could take a long time if the ea82 hit 9000 rpm on a 3.4 diff. Holy Cow. I am wondering if the car has the wrong speedo gear for alignment. As there is not much sticking anymore, it seems to be perfectly off by 12mph. I wondered if this car had 4wd original, the bolt holes are open and clean for rear end, like something had filled them. Also a wear on thje unibody, I have only seen happen on the 4wd. Anyways, it may be a clue to a perfectly wrong speedo. (the diff gear changed to the 2wds- misaligning accuracy) A lighter car is a faster one.. very complex thing to figure. Has anyone done a closed track or fly across the salt bed. I bet this driveline would do 150....taking awhile to get there in a lighter chassis. It is not all that big a number when you have done it (not me in a soob).If the old soob is slow, it is being made to run as such.

Not to keep babbling, but there is a serious answer I needed,to this threads initial question.It is also for anyone who has changed the tires to bigger then the 23.* inch oem diamater. For Example: I was passing everone on the highway for the 18 months I have had my car and every highway trip. I have just learned today, that my 3500 rpm in 5th gear, I have been doing 81mph. That is a hefty ticket where I live, all on account of a speedo claiming 70. Now I know 3000 is not the 55 I thought I was crawling at. I have no clue why there is a large pic of a vmax in this thread.. I am fairly certain it is off topic.

I found an interesting site that can proportionately align a bad speedo with incredibly smart math (realistic answer): the above photo at 100 mph and tach accurately at 4800 == 112mph on my soob. Upon getting close to the 5200 max hp (I refuse to go there due to my little tires speed rating) even tho very easy to get to, would equal 121 mph. check the site out and avoid law troubles: http://www.4lo.com/calc/gearratio.htm if you have no transfer, neutral it with a "1". Good Stuff. The tire calculator site only shows speedo differences at 60 mph or 55mph, this site gets it dynamically. Use both to figure tire diamter, as it is a variable http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Also, I wanted to compare a 195/60/15 in theory. The only real gain in a bigger tire is a safe speed rating that can handle it. This tire put into equation with the ea82 at 5200 pm and a 3.9 diff is only 123.1 mph. It is to say, a 13 inch tire can indeed go there with the right diameter, but unsafely. Another theory was the fastest oem subaru (spfi loyale generation, or any ea82 for that matter) with its tallest differential (3.4) on the aforementioned 15 inch tire in 5th gear at 5200 rpm == 140.7mph, of course rpms higher than that with the tall ratio OEM could no doubt hit 150+ before 6000rpm. have I really answered this age old question?!

It has been 18 months with my junk yard soob.. my favorite car of all time.93 loyale 2wd n/a 5spd. http://93loyale.50megs.com I even wanted to document it. My worry is the hellacious lower end crank/rod thud. It sounds like a very high compression engine since I have got it.I have never heard an EA82 so loud cylindrically firing, or rpm range, etc. The little buggy is really thumping every cylinder like its on War Emergency Power on a martyrs WW2 mission (<- analogy! too many avaiation video games). Being as I have never seen or heard of an n/a EA82 "throwing a rod".. what is next step for this noise? Will it just spin a bearing? if the noise is rare, is it oil pump? I have ruled out cams, they are calm and quiet. This thud is a heavy one.. crank relatable. I am at 160k, no engine repairs at all.

If there is any rust at all to the inside front of rear tires, it needs a serious fix right away. It starts with a little hole towards the bottom front inside of the wheel well. To catch it then could save it possibly, but even then, keep a close eye on it. Once open the cancer sets in fast...Next step is catastrophic, unexpected. I just looked at one today! The owner just last year put in a clutch and it was inspectable. One short winter later, the rear tires are rubbing the wells and rust is falling off like shattered glass- unibody deemed useless.Doubt it before having faith in it, you will be much safer to do so.

(possible move thread?) I passed this cars parking spot again, to see the owner tinkering with it. It needed a jump start so I helped him get it going. Runs very good and quiet. The unibody is indeed all done, non-repairable (the rear end is ripping away from the unibody, and up front "A-Frame" is busted, rocker panels, floors, rear quarters, etc.) 163k, new clutch (less than 1 year), mpfi turbo 5spd , pushbutton 4wd. Runs very very smooth, I revved it up to the rpms to find anything sloppy, no sign of it dying anytime soon.Not a single strange noise. I have volunteered myself to help him sell, I don't believe I can purchase and attain garage in time to buy it/take it apart. It is in fact all original oem. rear disc brakes, etc.Studded snows. if interested, email me for owners number bgd1973@hotmail.com he was asked to move it from the spot in Brewer, ME to another location. Again its location is brewer/bangor maine area if interested in hauling for parts. $500 obo.It isn't going far I'm sure.

I owned a DL for 9 years.The loyale has more options than I have seen. Also fixing problems with too many guages that liked to fail and other electronic experiments. If mpfi were 9.5:1 on the ea82, regardless of car it was in, it would have incredible power worth remembering.I'm thinking 6th gear and a 165 mph top end 145 hp with torque to match (that is still in my mind for a project with the spfi lower end and mpfi heads from a car up the street).. Heck my 2wd ,the absolute fastest take off ea82 n/a I have ever seen on just 30mm spfi injection, is a very good reference to what 9.5:1 can do. The 87 DL I was running had an unusually high compression (an odd number - 8.7:1(?). It is worth remembering.It was one of the reasons I bought it from a dealer 10 years old. In fact, I think it was the resaon they hung onto it- it truly was an oddball "mini-truck" in every action. The top end had a gearing I haven't seen again for the ea82. 9.5:1 was an astonishment to folks I knew running the ea82 - only seen in the exhaust blowing loyales. I have never been in a quick gl n/a. I don't believe it went any lower on the Loyale than this- a dl and gl could have a few different numbers most likely in the 8's. the later gl's were no doubt an overlap to what the loyales ended up with, but could be different, like my dl with the metal side tank radiator. To see a Loyale , it is to count on the oem stuff I found and nothing else. If not knowing Subarus, a GL would have to be looked over about a few things, as it could have a few different things. That is really my point to listing the differences. The biggest one is indeed the unibody change I don't see written anywhere- not even on a later gl.

Upon getting up close and personal with my 1987 DL that broke the unibody, after its last year of "wiggling" around. I have found the difference between a later Loyale and outlined it in photo. I saved the DL for a short time by lamination of sheet steel and welding/riveting the "arms" underneath front driver/passenger feet, but it still failed eventually. I noticed right away in my 93 loyale- it felt different at the same 13 years and similar miles, and underneath was in great shape in comparison. I tried to take a photo of my loyale, but my dark carpet does not get what I want to show, so I used both photos from a GL posted here at usmb by alex gl-10 (thanks). It is exactly the area I had to repair on my DL. The Loyale (my guess) is never going to need it. this difference is only one of a few: 2. the radiator has plastic sides only, on the Loyale. The DL/GL could have had the metal side tanks (proven stronger ability) 3. underside doesn't rust like the dl/gl I have found (I have 3 to personally refer to locally) Being my dl was white like my loyale, I had to rule out the paint. 4. The engine is in fact the highest compression oem EA82 in the Loyale n/a models (9.5:1) - my industrial strength need in the exhaust system sure as heck pointed the .5 to 1 point difference. 5. Some dl/gl had n even skinnier steel wheel then the 5.5 inch that come on loyales. 6. Loyales never have a carbeurator, unless someone went back in time and non-oem for the loyales years of manufacture. 7. Loyales are buglight lenses only- gl/dl could have had 4 square lights or round (on older ones) 8. Upon changing windshield- the tint on edges, and what it does with sunlight was different than my DL .The dl lets more UV in- even the doors and other windows took more UV in than the loyale. There is other stuff, but this is my first "rough" post. I am going to submit changes at wikipedia as well, to give some more facts about the Loyale. Quote from wikipedia "The loyale is essentially a gl-10 but with a different name." <- uhhhm. I don't think so. 10 years for me with both. I am not hesitating to speak up for accurate documentation sake.

Yeah go ahead. I can take a better picture if u want. Just tell me how you want me to take it. Thanks alot. I will post a thread with other stuff I found for loyale and gl differences worth noting. The definition at wikipedia "The Loyale is basically a GL-10 with a different name" really left me scratching my head. After 9 years running a dl and 18 months in a loyale (nearly everyday mind you) there is several facts not even mentioned. you were speaking of putting your car on a diet... strong steel in correct places can make it feel lighter.Even thin sheets in places that laminate (just 2 1/8th inch is 1/4 worth of steel- very very strong and still lightweight.) I would put another layer in fron of shifter and narrow it down out towards the sides where Subaru claims a jack fits nicely on the outside. (you know what I mean?)And if a wagon, the pillar behind rear doors, find a way to laminate that and "X" it to the front somehow above the roof liner, fitting hidden to the pillars that hold front door hinges.

That is the point I just made.. even my fuel pump breaking had signs I shrugged off as dirt in the fuel system. It was my own fault. What set interval for the 200 dollar fuel pump is worth it? Luckily my carbed dl was matched cheaply with a 30 dollar 5-7 lb psi monster(it was huge in comparison to original)- that pump would have gone to 20 more years for all I know. Alternators do have signs- its like lightning burp and gurgles- a keen eye catches it. Mine don't, but guages to monitor are a good thing there. Isn't that why they have them? Cars are as durable as thier environment. Would this in writing have a "Northern Arctic" section and a "Southwest Desert" chapter? (I am speaking of usa of course) Being stranded sucks, but one can only go so far on thier own intuition and intervals of maintenance before something happens. I also learned that on aircraft.The best manual for intervals is time with the owner of the car. Another note is... what oem parts have to go away from your car forever to change the intervals of repair entirely? 2 points I have learned personally are the crappy plastic side tanked radiators in the Loyales getting scrapped, and on my 2wd, use anything but oem rear bearings.Even the bosch plugs changed many things, not to think of again. I am not sure what could be put into writing and be useful, unless it is specific to one car in its environment, and many years with one owner who would want to documnet it for personal reasons. (I can really see an Aircraft mechanic being inspired by this idea- I was one, and am not).