bgd73

I had just put in some timing belts on my ol' 2wd Loyale. Saved the car from a junk yard and the belt off a tooth was the ailment. Anyway, decided to take it on the highway as the power increase was huge. I am merging onto the highway for all my little loyale is worth and out of nowhere a lime green subaru sedan with "2.2 litre" on the trunk lid goes flying by.In my rural area it startled me to see this. So I kept after my vibrating car's throttle and sure enough was gaining on the lime green hot rod. My speedometer hit 95 suddenly, as it sticks on 72mph. I have no idea how fast we were going, but traffic was very slow in comparison. A wiff of anitfreeze and temp started rising, all the dummy lights but oil came on after a dozen miles or so. I let off throttle , and I double checked that the throttle wasn't sticking, because the car didn't slow down (in neutral!) .With no sound of engine audible,at idle,all I heard was wind. I thought I would glide it to a stop until it just wouldn't glide anymore. A full 1.5 miles went by and I was still at 85mph. Next exit, up over a long hill...2 miles the sign said. To my amazement, I not only glided all the way to the exit, I turned right off the ramp without stopping, went another .75 mile to an intersection, and gave it the brakes to come to a stop in a parking lot. The glide slope was over 4 miles, up over a mile long upgrade, the rest was level. I popped the hood and there was the crank belt pulley contently sitting there with the belt holding it up away from the engine, and bolt still in it ( I didn't torque properly, my bad!). I put it back on,I tightened it up, drove all the way home. I have never encountered anything like it comparing to the 11 other cars I have owned and driven.It simply powered itself by physics unkown to glide that far....

Gonna grab a pair and see what goes together. Will post results

A/C needs new refrigerant. Be sure that condensor in front of radiator passes test, can do it at home cheap. I found conversion at napa. That mileage is worth another decade. Nice find

I asked this very question: rods are same, pistons different, head combustion chamber is same. I wanted mpfi heads on high compression SPFI NA. High comp pistons on turbo heads and turbo'd is a disturbing thought, you must be planning on going light boost? If top end held together, the crank only has 3 main bearings. Just changing my exhaust to less restrictive nearly killed my ol' EA82! Would be fine for awhile no doubt

Rear loyale 2wd. The 4wd even with bad springs (rare but happens) still "gyro'd" up to a decent height. The 2wd is hopeless once it goes beyond the point of height I am trying to keep.My Loyale has plumbers rump roast. My toolbox in the trunk isn't even heavy and it is killing this little minded subaru setup. The springs for the ride are great, I just want to pick it up. To act as a spacer like the stuff I found, it wouldn't need strength. The rubber bushings are weaker and still right where they were installed since new doing same thing, those sleeves would be under those rubber donuts, further preventing any break.

I got 3.25-3.5 inches width x 10mm (spring) x 7.25-7.5inches (length). Can go way way up. This loyale is the saggiest! (2wd) I bet 3inches up would LEVEL the car.:-\

Oh, here is ebay itme I was referring to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B-88-89-90-91-HONDA-CIVIC-CRX-COILOVER-COIL-OVER-SPRING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33582QQitemZ8057759912QQrdZ1

hey I have heard of a coil spring swap from a honda to loyale , what years and model? Also I found coulover adjusters (rugged appearance) that fits inside spring center for a honda civic (89-91). Would these fit inside a loyale coilover?

The bearings shrink over time in a way where they still look good and spin freely etc. . I just went through that very same thing you did about a month ago....Be ready to change them soon. New lube sped up the process of really doing bearings in!

The rubber ring certainly acknowledges what I was trying to say... If aluminum was a good alternative, you would think the experts at subaru with the aluminum engine block would be quite aware of it.I heard the word "resonance" and that ring buffers it. (I used to say "it************z" or other retarded analogy) I would trust OEM till it fell apart, realize a decade or more went by and silently replace it. Note, there is nothing aluminum spinning on a subaru, It is always casing for something that does.

What is purpose of lighter one? If to gain something, what is it? The stubborness of the steel one, or other oem pulley is quite strong if it seems heavy.The subaru short crank is really sending some heat through it, and no forgiveness ("snappy torque" correct wording?) I spun one off on a 90hp EA82! I'm glad it was a steel pulley that got thrashed around to be bolted right back up.I saw this interest happen on v8's it was almost embarrasing. Wouldn't want any danger there if I seem pessimistic.

I really like the idea of swapping stuff. I had a chevelle that took a straight 6, v6, and many v8's (small block and big) but it was factory intendable. Each Subaru's longevity is to be balanced out with the frustration of proprietary (it is quite precise indeed). I found an impreza with hubcaps, saggin in the back, white with black trim and high miles.... just like when I found my first loyale same colors strting to rust. For same price when Loyale was the impreza's age now (with the bigger engine and 4wd...). I will not be swapping engine's unless I could make it a hobby.I would If I could, but I can't...:cool: Where are some pics of finished Loyale Gl Dl swaps? I saw the flat-6 in the yellow wagon from here (impressive).

I was getting anxious and bored and decided to doodle. Of course I would like to see how tough one of the EA82 cranks are bouncing two rods in the engineerings outer limits (I bet my sawzall doesn't do much ). I do not have intentions of rebuilding if engines needs to be split. The second go around is never as good as its first. I also believe my crankshaft or something else equally "low-level" springs into differences and comes back once and awhile. that one event has changed my mind about rebuild. I had a v8 crankshaft that wouldn't hold number one rod bearing, even tho showing balanced and clean , open oil ports. All from many miles , idly sitting back to normal and changing after heat of running; elusively, the EA82 has racked up even more, at slightly higher revves, I wonder if I should where a zoot suit and chem mask to take off the oil pan . Speaking of doodling, I made this animation for ea82 (and many others) http://93loyale.50megs.com/firoda.html Now all i need is someone to tell me there is an error in drawing...

Uh oh. Your enlightening me. I could do main bearings. I am willing to bet your guess is correct.Slap some new federal moguls in there and call it good. A balanced engine would do something bewildering from worn mains. I can only compare to v8's (what I used to run) and when a bearing was worn there, it was quite bluntly known. out loud.I can't seem to admit I am attached to my old subaru. Even mechanics I know would say "give it up". USMB has helped keep me going. Donation from me soon, the manual in pdf format was priceless...

I don't even have a point. I did find EA82 had 3 main bearings. I have a wordless problem, and that may have fit what I was non-seriously pursuing for an answer. I am going to admit that this is my last ea82 :-\ . I am seriously saddened.10 years and about 70k on old subarus that shouldn't have made it. There is an evolution I need to step up to. I found a way to make it good for all occasions and seemed to find it's limitation with frustration.The reliability for its lightweight purpose has been great, I had no idea I shouldn't have done anything to gain more than I was supposed to (I don't even have turbo and what I did to get a little more out of it was quite humble). So. I want an ej20 in my old loyale , or step away from the whole generation. Maybe I shouldn't have learned as much as I did about it , just enough to find an embarrasing dead end.Live and Learn.Now onto those 5 main bearings....

All your points are quite logical. The harley one is kinda funny. A 2 cylinder wobble is a 360degree fire (missing 180 balances like all other engines bellcranking- 4 cyl and up) The best design for that crappy harley is also flat , even then it still sucks. 4 cylinders buffer that at 180. I simply saw the battle of two forces in any engine that effect smoothness. The physical crank and pistons, and when it fires. An example (true story) is a 60 degree large v12 diesel (about as high as compression can go) losing 2 cylinder on one side. A mechanic confidently to help the time constrained trucker out temporarily found the firing order and shut down two more cylinders on the other side in balanced strategic locations. The engine purred like a kitten (bad analogy for a diesel I know) with a perfectly runnable loss of about 30%. 180 flat-four is exactly correct balance for a four cylinder and the four strokes 720 degree cycle, of course it can't lose a cylinder, like a big engine with more. The picture I drew in fun is a trick on your mind when it comes to balance. Every post above except the one mentioning resonance has forgot an important balance in every engine unmeasurable : The Fire Stroke. Even then the resonance theory is forgetting that one. The fire in crazy drawing is more balanced than the 180 degree same bank firing the subaru is currently running.Each bank gets a fire at 360 in a front to back motion (opposite bank) not the two on one side then the two on the other to start over again like the current boxer.I think it would run. I would love to know.Even the crank is lighter, tighter. The only oddity I could think of is maybe offsetting shared journal for crank advance/direction. Not exactly insane like a rotary.

I decided to change the firing order of my subaru with a sawz-all and $99 welder have a look (hopefully picture is below here) Just what I was after

"dont really want to give up now!! its really wierd it wants to go i know it!!" LOL. I have been there just after finding a leak. Everything was good and It still did strange things after fixing... until one day in a very powerful rain storm... something came back and the hesitation left it (over a year ago!). I could only ponder the speed of the ecu clock and ecu truly remembering a long run with a mistake, even after it was gone. Mine was complete with after fire detonation. Try your ecu's complete reset, clear codes, unhook from battery? and then go real easy for awhile, target where it just starts to miss /hesitate and leave throttle there, if it still doesn't stop, you still have a problem.

hey, I was plagued with clutch slippage until adjusted. The true test isnt bogging it down. It will happen if bad adjustment/ clutch/hill holder at max torque (2750rpm to about 3300). If you smell it and it is still slipping after adjusting..... not good. I found high miles and rear main seal can leak in and pretend clutch is dead. They are very very surprisingly tough (I have had two that just wouldn't die -non-turbo.) . I would blame everything but the clutch, until truly proven otherwise

Seeing you are in alaska, I could relate to you a strange guess that hasn't been wrong on my subarus here in Maine (going on 10 years). Spring weather really does change the car dramatically. Be sure good oil and filter, as long as it doesnt hit zero pressure I'd keep going, unless bad history of maintenance or very high mileage (200k+?). I get valves rappin every "warmest" day since last season perfectly mathematical. They quiet eventually and don't make noise on similar day throughout summer.... until winter chills coma (<- what a great mispelling!) climbs back in. I have even taken things apart for no reason other than a "difference" of recent pasts usual functions to find no problems whatsoever. I found the spfi models dump gas into engine, or engine is letting "stuff" go in Spring I am uncertain, as I keep good fuel mileage. This past springs first 40 degree day sent the smell of ether climbing out from engine, to find out MTBE (ingredient in fuel) sits still all winter long in the tank sometimes....That can happen to oil in frigid temps back to warm as well with thier many ingredients.

I got thinking about things I didn't like about Subarus in general..there aren't many. Here is one thing I would like on 4 cylinders: A firing order the same as a 1969 VW beetle (1-4-3-2) vs subarus 1-3-2-4. (I say the 69beetle as I found it in search, with firing order I made up in my head first). Highway speeds revealed something at perfect rpm. I cant put it into words, but I know I don't like it. Subaru 4 cyl has 2 cylinders firing on one side, then the other 2 on other side instead of truly reciprocating. What ashame for balance. Slow driving it is almost unnoticable. Bad struts reveal it perfectly, yet Good ones can't stop it. What have you noticed, new or old subarus that havent changed, and you would like?

Hey, mine did this with a stuck strut (spring time "bang" noise and back to like new) left a floating caved in feel and thumped to engine under torque on the left side. It just might get cold enough in new jersey to do something like that (it does in Maine) even the steel had to change density up to 2 months of spring time weather. If top of wheel is aiming outward, try to get a straight on look at strut and see if it flops or moves while car is sitting on all fours or if it is bent (grab it and shake it all oround at bottom of spring where you can get your hands around it). The rubber bushings on drag link and other places can do this as well.( You would know if this was bent). And lastly, ball joint, but even bad the play is minimal, and to aim top of tire outward..... yikes. It would seem as tho to be quite obvious taking a close look. Run it like a rally car over a bunch of bad terrain (as a previous post stated) and make this little prob obvious

Nice fix! I wish I had known a better fix than oem before I hacked all egr out of the car and threw it into the forest

My boring favorite..... The torque exceeding horsepower (the balance.) It is in other engines of course, but whoever built them valued them way too high simply for common sense.

I sure am. Even about other's cars. Like that time my friends in thier ford thundebird went off the road doing 80+ with a broken tie rod and one friend died, right before my very eyes. All while knowing that car wasn't correct and being silenced by a comment just like yours."chill out, have a another beer" a "cool" friend said.( come to think of it. I dont drink anymore either). Leave my "paranoia" alone:)