bgd73

My 87 did that until the end, with new exhaust, etc. I didn't have a book to know there was a backfire valve :cool: . As lean as it ran (35-40+ mpg) There was carbon on the tailgate after long trips and was good on oil. Somethin in there lets stuff fly after the miles!

You are quite right about grease. I took it apart a year ago and found *none* (when I first got car), but a sense of viscosity that won over the moving parts.Things can fall apart after new grease, my little car proved it to me (shrunk the bearings--no heat-> pounded thier sloppy selves right out of function). I am second guessing every pulley behind timing cover right now.... those spun even more than the numbers I came up with (and there is something whining noise and spinning fast...). I have been having fun with that camera since I found "macro mode" never had tensioners , oil pump. I oiled them last year with 3-in-1 oil....I wonder what those do at 4000rpm when they've had enough:eek:

It should have something as a snorkel going towards fender (my early 87 did) The material is quite easily weakened after 20 years so it may have been intentionally taken off. Interesting fix would be cold air aluminum pipe up to end of air cleaner, and let the engine bounce to something flexible to keep it together and sealed Hey, did you try out the exhaust idea?

http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/4192/loyalesgold15nz.jpg I caught a glimpse of my old bearing in the sun and it really caught my eye..... Each roller in that picture has spun 7,427,531,847 times before its end of life (thats 7 billion). I am respecting its 13 years of winters to -25F and summers to 95F, and rolling along to 149,000 miles on the little 13 inch wheels .They have spun more than a tractor trailers 24.5 inch rim with over a million miles for comparison. This post has no meaning, except maybe to promote thorough checks on everything that moves on your old subaru

I had this very same question. Upon a little knowledge of my own v8 building I came up with this... CAM and INTAKE and heat that kills it like an rpm limiter. In a v8 that did same things (no high rpm power, like my subaru) I changed cam and kept factory intake (something I would love to do on an ea82). On old cam the top end of engine got hot,after beating on car. On new cam gaining several thousand hard thumping rpm, the top end got cooler and gained more air to have more power (all while staying cooler!----never to suicide flow again). I could only think of making top end cool for ea82 to have a non-suicidal gain for higher rpm. drop thermostat, kill egr, open exhaust in strategic place (too much will kill limited fuel flow) all on oem intake. I freakishly hit 6500 rpm spinning mud off the tires and it occurred to me the car was inbetween full temp and cold. Keeping intake cold is about all one could do. so , needless to say, I unintentionally found it to be heat (among all the usual pursuits for good running engine). Even fuel pump heating up is a killer, and on a car that is 30mpg design, it is easy to find these backed up heat makers (cool fuel cools the pump, etc etc).

I had a carbed ea82 that did it all the time by putting straight pipe where sound resonator is, leaving cat alone, and keeping oem size pipe. It was identical to rally sound until i literally blew the pipe apart before muffler ....then the everlasting muffler!. It even had a twack snap sound under throttle. All it really needs is to maintain heat to the end of pipe and in my case, not rich but very very lean fuel/air (it got over 40mpg on highway).Zero leaks forcing scavenge effect from back to front on this little motor needs the little pipes (oem), heat and very tight (absolutely no leaks whatsoever) then backfires. It is kinda fun when you didnt mean to make that kind of noise

excellent point.I too almost gave up to valves that wouldn't stop knocking tapping. as it turned out, the engine did it when less than 1qt down on oil, and stopped when adding half a quart.I never did verify that dipstick had mistake. Imagine scrapping an engine because of a dipstick? (no pun intented) :cool:

I had those noises too, see if oil pan is loose, valve covers, even intake and change oil and filter and let idle till fan kicks on . Once lash adjusters lose "prime" they take awhile to gain gently. idle should get it, or easy steady low rpm. unless you are ea81 (i am assuming it is 86 carbed ea82). Mine made those noises after simple changes .... Like I was bending the whole engine into something else . My last ea82 could not even be 1 quarter of 1 quart low or the valve noise came back!

I don't have a gauge at all , but did learn I can put one in . I thought at first intuition the ecm used the dummy light unit but it doesn't. I'm sure it is good, I had to tighten the valve covers to stop really powerful leak and engine doesn't smoke (true clean pressure vs. blowby) . It is most definately a low heavier top end knock, lash adjusters still do a great job of keeping valve train quiet. I also found 10w30 is recommended above 0F... I havent swapped out the 5w30 castrol syntec for warmer weather. Will try that first and hope for the best. I can't use 10w30 in winter here, it may as well be transmission gear oil by the time mid-winter comes. I forgot all about the weight to use in warmer weather (6 months of cold and I tend to forget alot of things) I hope It won't stay knockin once I change oil.. it stays so close to good, the oil must fix it (I hope). A 180F thermostat seems to be in order too... If it don't work I will post again, thanks for replies.

Hey all, I have a bad cam knock and it wont quit (passenger side EGR victim). I looked through manual to take casing that holds cam off and It left me with a few Q's... Can the casing unbolt where engine sits? Is there bearings for cam , or do i need new casing?

The original may have more than one answer. I had a carbed 87 that seemed to use exhaust side for egr near exhaust pipe. The longest lasting ea82 ever I am certain of it. I went for long ride after fixing this hacked head ea82 and it really came to balanced life. Could've driven till I was exhausted. I have a hunch it will not come close to the longevity of older carb design head I ran for 9 years (the passenger cam is flopping after taking the egr stuff away entirely). Aluminum heads are strangely self-curing in alot of ways, maybe after outer "layer" density changes it will quiet down (running much cooler at speed and hills and traffic , etc. and staying good power).

Alan: Yes I did. Holmes: I just wanted to show the work, and my bizarre problem that even went electrified.I am aware of the other threads. And by golly , that dang EGR raises temps, causes volumetric efficiency suicide, introduced an inert gas right into the body where I Breathe, used more fuel, caused a bizarre electrical anomoly,restricted #3 cylinder by roasting the combustion chamber and for a balanced engine, the combustion chambers best be balanced as well (equal). At 75 mph my guage is on cooler side with 5 mpg more than before while being less on the fighting throttle. and excellent smooth idle most of time (I have A/C things change) .I also had to replace rubber air intake boot for reasons I only assocated with a gas or chemical and heat.... EGR is only means possible unless timing belt was way off. I am pro non-EGR with a realistic bad attitude. It made me sick, my car sick, and my passengers noticed too , all while causing mysteriously elusive problems because it stayed sealed. There, I may never talk about it again. I do recommend scrapping it if you car stays emmission legal for safety sake... Seriously.

I finished plugging off egr valve and pipe (a bit cleaner) as it was already blocked off. I have several mysteries that cured and have a strange answer . My speedometer always loses when taking off fast and sticks at 72 (no matter what I did to get to 72). Idle has always been rough, my next step was fuel pump after tuning, repairing many many things. Just about all the problems have stopped and can't seem to shrug it off as a conicidence. I asked about this and this was answer: The carbon inside the dirty egr was acting as another place for spark plug to ground, affecting all the little electrical things nearby (there are alot of them). I hope this answer holds true and I keep running good. I could *feel* and hear the cam from that part of the engine for at least an hour after plugging pipe at head (brass looking plug in photo) as the cam suddenly became loose from the get go .There is a screw underneath that plug with a round head that finished it off perfectly (concave screw (small bolt) head into concave hole below plug). How do you approach emmission laws to say "My EGR was killing me and my car". Upon reading the subaru manual today...some engineers actually had the gaul to say that EGR valve reduced cylinder temperature when opened.. Yeah Right. Give me the cold air and unburnt fresh fuel anyday, and give it one shot to burn or *get out* of my engine Hows that for efficient! Pic of what I did: http://img208.imageshack.us/my.php?image=egr16ew.jpg

I am really babbling today! Anybody done this to change the throw distance on manual shifter? I spot them for newer rally based subarus, not for loyale (unless they are similar?) I'm not very tall, but getting comfortable is awkward with that shifters location and arm throw needed to go through the gears. I was thinking of putting a bent armed extension so i can sit back where I belong. Would love a shorter throw.....

That sounds cool. Linear flawed energy into fluid pressure. Awesome idea. For that small engine to gain more power than it normally would to gears is incredible!

So to conclude it is lack of cooling, over pressured turbo and lack of fluids seems to be most serious killers .Even then, I ran an ea 82 DL that had less than half gallon of coolant all summer ( I was quite ill--wasn't keeping up on much of anything), no breaks or errors here in Maine, I finally noticed after turning on the defrost one morning with temp guage at warm and got no heat. I was curious to know as my car engine sounds "loose" after fixing stuff. I just watched a rally video and those engines at idle I'd swear I could hear and visualize every noisy flopping part. I won't worry just yet...seems to be better than ever when things stay "loose as a goose" and cool.

Wow. You folks rack up the bills. As a disabled mechanic and 17 cars, 16 years and home car schooling, I'd rather collect cans to fix *any* car with the magical tech manual handy for difficult info (by the way,thanks for the pdf files for 1989 subaru I got here at USMB-- I spent 60 bucks printing, hard binding and laminated pages to put my greasy paws all over it ). I got my 2wd loyale for free and did about 5000 dollars in mechanical work at the cost of my time, and gathered parts that didn't need to be new from junked loyales/dl/gl (like glass). My Loyale was literally on the back of the junk yard hauler before I caught the driver to bring it back from eternal death. Patience and thought that your broke can get the same quest done and even better, because it is *yours*(mostly). The closest I came to 5000 dollars on a vehicle was a baby blue monte carlo SS in mint condition that had a calm top end of over 150mph by the time I was done "nickel and diming".(seriously--- no exxageration). It is a shame what frozen trees and 60mph can do to bend a "rubber ball" of a bouncing chevy car almost IN HALF . I wrecked it to have the epiphany (religiously) to never ever fall for American manic depressive automobiles ever never again. 5000 on a subaru with the boxer is most worth it if I could. The simple math and durability is worth a million. Ironically enough, I hit a big 'ol deer with a subaru wagon at same speeds (65 mph) and did literally no damage. Again priceless.....

Damn. That particular engine isnt easy. I looked at schematics or 6cyl and shied away. I blame the 2 middle cylinders not getting as much as the front and back (unlike the ea82)

It occured to me , that I have never seen a blown ea82 (physical rod break, crank , cam, valves etc.) I have heard of head gaskets going, but never actually seen one. Has anyone "thrown a rod" or spun a bearing? I must have been in and around a dozen high mileage ea82s with no major failures. The one I am running now has almost a low end knock and the questions I ponder ... I shrug it off as i killed "the heat pig" and added higher grade oils, things loosen up like my last one.

I thought about it twice every time I spelled it... never bothered checking. Berring rhymes with herring, it is my maine "retahdation" Hey, was that a legacy 5 lug swap to loyale type or XT 5 lug to loyale? I cant find stuff here in searches, even though I am certain I read it.

Maybe change the whole thing out from another subaru? Maybe put bigger 5 lug possibilities from a legacy To eat the front is a disturbing thought, I am sure they are changed all the time, but if it happens to me, I am changing everything even if needing a mod or junk yard swap. That is an area designed to be quite dynamical, to kill front berrings in my opinion, i would doubt the whole casing containing them. A cheap possibility for berring failure is bad "tire rating" (when you knew all hardware was good-and suddenly failure). I just checked mine today and found "86" as weight rating on my less than a year old 70 series tires. The highway is going to be my tragedy if i dont change them.. Don't I love it when mechanics underestimate my little subaru (they should have a 1320 lb - or "90" rating). There are little 5.0 v8 Ford mustangs with weaker unibodies getting v rated 160mph tires because it "looks" like it needs it. Oh well... I found a more realistic set of "90S" right on the internet delivered for 100 bucks cheaper, and giving me the 24 inch diameter the highway tends to leave alone on long trips for next time. If you get the berrings in, check the many possibilities for failure... bad grease tires (speed and weight rating) alignment (many things can cause bad alignment) struts, springs, steering rack, trans axles and drive shaft, even motor and tranny mounts and all bushings. Once front berrings goes bad, there is the wound and memory of it forever embedded in that tough casing (it feels like it "fakes" the failure even after fixed). Good Luck, It may work out for you. I am not that lucky.

A geek fact! The berring that failed according to my math spun 131,032,000 times before it really needed to be changed.... 13 years and 148,900 miles. All that stress and time and Maine weather on a berring a bit bigger than a half dollar.... (148900*5280)/((23*3.14)/12) == 131,032,000 (close estimate) Ok. I'm satisfied, I will never talk about my bad berring again:)

Hey thanks alot. It answered the 40psi Question (it will work). The burp and gurgles seemed to stop with consistently warmer weather. This 2wd is the fastest take off, highest revving, EA82 I have ever been in (I need a 6th gear! ). The OEM fuel system design (it is safe to assume) is not really accustomed to this,along with exhaust mod and air intake boot mod. I did my mods for the 90hp to return to normal. I seem to be exceeding things ever so slightly :-\ Perfect weather stops problem nearly completely.

Has anyone used an "msd" 40psi fuel pump (or any other msd)? They are everywhere I look (a dime a dozen so to speak). I already have in mind the mods needed to have good fit.

http://img336.imageshack.us/my.php?image=berrings8yo.jpg It is a disturbing thought knowing tell tale signs are minimal. I was so intrigued by my cars error i drew a bad picture