bgd73

" Combustion chambers are essentially the same for all of the EA82s. C/R variances are due to piston shape. " <---Excellent... ty for info. TurboSPFI I didn't know EA82's blew head gaskets

Speaking of bumping it up... I have a aspirated 1.8 loyale (9.5:1 comp, or even a bit higher according to haynes book) My Q is about turbo heads, intake setup on high comp without turbo. I cannot find chamber sizes for heads, exact info on pistons, deck height at tdc, to feed an algorithm to help me figure that out.I want to open this EA82 up!

Hi, I posted earlier with same problem. I have narrowed it down to doing the chug and burp only when its cold, but I can still tell there is slight problem. I have no vacuum leaks noticable (checking it with cleaner , in my case starting fluid-for sensitivity.) I am assuming things now, like ECM gone wild, or components, SPFI internally porous?.If your problem ends up being a vacuum leak, I would love to know! I have done every tune-up chore possible, including cleaning/degreasing. as well as extra things to air intake. with no perfect cure, and not noticing which chore improved it exactly. There is a difference between our problem, I do not lack power, it seems kinda crazy burst sometimes with mine.(just like a vacuum leak).

I can only blame god for maine.... -30 to 100 sometimes.Every one of my 15 cars did something unexplainable here, as well as some bizarre cures to keep them dynamical.From a towel wrapped around the old holley carb, to washing the windsheild 300 times from feb to june because the physics pits refuse to leave until it decides july is a crystal clear miracle ... The bearing noise is cold to warm weather, 5th soob to be familiar with same common thing. some quiet quicker than others.It will do it again from fall to december solstice.....

Sounds like high mileage! I can relate to smoking when compression braking, the carb don't like it. Cylinders still need air when revving, even if off throttle (therefore compression braking).The carb doesn't have an air bypass like the spfi. Even at lower mileage long downhills got mine smoking. Once oil is in cylinders it stays there for some time! try this driving habit: push in clutch on long downgrades, use your brakes more.It will clean out the whole top end (including intake!).Give pcv system time with this.Changing oil often is good for carbed ea82 also. hope this helps.

I wasn't sure for certain if it was OEM until I realized the 2wd may have been treated differently, (lightweight buzzing rear end).Also when I cleaned out car I found package for the steel bearing that was installed on passenger side. I am still assuming they put weak bearings for acoustics, and that they are under less load than a 4wd, as well as the sedan not even trailer hitchable.I will be replacing for the purpose of longer highway trips and speed (that damn thing is incredibly loud @75mph and disappears again at a uhh.... faster speed:) ) .I could check subaru dealer or parts store, but I've made my mind up to put steel in.The steel has downfall of noise when cold (and its brand new).My old 4wd did it in every cold spell, for the 17 years of needing nothing, I'll gladly live with it for the case of longevity, durability.

Give it time to run run run! To compare it to changing a "power supply" on a pc, it gives a micro trauma if the original was bad, it got used to it, now it is good, must do the same. I learned this not to be a coincidence, after my 3rd alternator in 3 different model cars (including GM), It took a few ecm resets and stops, starts, and run run run the engine! The more precise they get, the more stubborn it seems.... give your trouble time.

"My OEM has brass looking rollers (they dimpled and pitted!)" Heat didnt do it.they are definatley softer than thier surroundings. my guess is some brass bronze weak alloy intentionally made softer. The other side with steel bearings is quite obviously just that (steel).I guess I have another priority to get rid of this:rolleyes: ...

Has anyone encountered the options for bearing replacement? My OEM has brass looking rollers (they dimpled and pitted!) but will no doubt save hub and race, the replacemnt one one side is clearly a harder steel (I wondered if it could take out race of rear end, needing a whole rear axle on my 2wd). One makes a bit of noise at slow speed, the other (the OEM) starts noise @75 mph. I'd definately go for symmetry and stay with the harder ones for performance.Even if it went beyond the axles strength, I'm sure its quite a few years to go.

hey superdave ,that car is lookin sharp! I like the cold air intake, I did something very similar. I have a question about spider intake on ea82, I see in the cold air intake pictures, the regular heads you would find on an ea82 (along with the dreaded EGR<-it got personal). Did you do anything else for that 4-tubed intake to mount?

thanks, just what i had in mind.

I gave up with book numbers too, for cable. I ended up leaving clutch seemingly, hardly disengaging, to assure myself of true seat.Its feel will change going through seasons where I live (extreme) .bizarre quirk....

I had an idea.... use a loyale wagon's rear bumper, remount license plate w/light below trunk lid, get cheaper hitch for bumper and make some brackets to further strengthen on the endpoints of unibody(you can see the two boxed endpoints when you pick-up the cardboard stuff inside trunk). My guess is it will make for a buzzing ride because endpoints disperse "stuff".Any feedback, or someone who has a sedan w/ hitch?

hey, thanks for replies. I did quick search for sedan hitch, wagons are plentiful, sedans are impossible. It doesn't make much sense to me, the weight of sedan is lighter, more by means of losing the weight of rear end, etc on 2wd.The wagon unibody floor which hooks the hitches without any glitches (hmmm) ,will not work on sedan. With my own plan, I think I can man! Any ideas milesfox?

Hi, I did this too. If you can get through the grill, spot the cable, it is held secure by a bracket to the right of hood latch. If you can get in to the left of it and right of hood latch, you may be able to pop it with long gadget with a hook. Or you can lose your temper, rip the grill out, and try from that point of view! you can also try to unbolt whole machanism with ratchet and extensions, or you can trim back what is left of cable, finding an end, vise grip it, and open.

holy mackeral! Miles Fox is the winner. I checked again for the heck of it, it was in fact too tight. I just adjusted it about 3 months ago, but it was very cool outside. Things changed apparently.(also to mention what I did to engine)Thanks again.

tried that, but thank you.

If it does not go down when fully warm, the pressure relief isnt working. For ease of your repair, I would hope its a bad guage read (stuck reading cold pumps pressure? A friends loyale wagon did this.)

Hi, I would like to put a trailer hitch on my 2wd loyale. Is it successfully possible? If so, what are limits? (I found a 1977 pop-up camper, weighs under 590lbs.)

ok, thanks. Its back to normal. I found there's a delay in feul/air/firing and a crazy surge of power when I change something on the engine that increased power. Once that tunes in (ECM?) I am back to full throttle if need be, at the slipping rpms, with no slip, and keeping the gain.

My clutch is slipping again! And for an unknown reason the problem will go away.... It happens when I make an increase in power for the engine. I increased air intake, it did it for short time. I stopped EGR , it did it again for short time, even changing plugs to Bosch platinums bewildered it's set ways.Under heavy load only, about half a dozen times,from 3rd to 5th gear, before I got to feel the extra pull the extra power the engine was given with true grip.Anybody explain? I almost bought a clutch until I realized it doesn't slip all out, and strangely grabbed very strong in its slip at 4000 rpm range when hp is maxxed. Should I count on clutch soon, or is there some kind of "feel out a new alignment" for the new power? Also, I cannot have the rubber timing plug in or it keeps doing it. Does this mean I have a seal spewing drops of oil causing slip? The plug out is obviously "drying" something letting flywheel into open air..I really did increase power well beyond my expectation, what is succesful limit for power applied on stock clutch?

I went through same troubles about EGR. Even without the solenoid switching it, the egr was opening. high miles Can do this. I uhhh "panicked" and blocked it off forever. A proper way to maintain would be to clean the egr valve and its ports with wire wheel (this is claimed to work, I haven't bothered with it).My car got worse at speed, and it was doing it getting there, valve is opening too soon, or not soon enough, open too long or not open long enough, or in my final "fix"...Never opening again! I resorted to making my own intake boot "cold" with steel pipes and aluminum (the EGR open nearly killed my high mile engine, even the top end feed of good cool air got outright HOT.) My fix will cause greater fuel consumption, and CEL light random. I really needed the extra power with it closed off. Also, it took the ECM or the components quite a few runs before the backwards, suicide HOT intake to go back to some kind of normal smooth operation.My prob went extreme, it started with the burping, chuggin erratic powered irregularities, like yours. (93 loyale, 139k).

I hope I'm not incriminating myself..... I finally found the source to many probs, trying to make cold air intake stopping the hesitations, the quirks go on and on. My EGR doesn't shut or open and is the only error code on the ecm. I made a plate to go between the EGR valve and intake to stop it forever, I have personally deemed it a hazard (I will not even consider a safe time to ever open that bomb maker). If I can stop it at the head and intake, I will do that as well. I'm not sure if Maine requires this valve, if so, and it be known, I will park this line of EA82's indefinately(loyales, etc.). I found that it was opening on its own due to a freak exhaust restriction in the sound resignator, only in surges, but even that is still too much for my contentment of safety.I am ssuming custom intakes, injections, get around this emission "standard"(my DL did).Anybody do the same?

holds the universal at the cap and pin berrings underneath it.

Ok, thank you. I purged something strange letting it vent, I am back to non-vented (vacuum only), running good with no gas smell. Hot days and low on fuel gave me hissing noise loosening cap, I overthought the situation.