1 Lucky Texan

Even though it was replaced, seems like the starter (solenoid?) is going out. Keep a chunk of 2x4 or a bat with you and the next time it fails, whack the starter 2-3 times 'medium hard' and then try starting it. Not uncommon to get poorly rebuilt parts. I suppose it could be some kind of poor ground or still a bad switch/relay in the starting circuit. Does any amount of whacking on the ignition switch area seem to help? I dunno Carl Carl

Whoa! You lucked out! If the belt had burned through rubbing across that pulley......... well, you probably would've had a demonstration of the phrase - 'catastrophic failure'. Carl

Well, that SOUNDS tricky all right! I've read that one must close it VVEERRRRRRYY slowly or the seals/whatever will be destroyed. I dunno how one would test it though. Carl

How did you compress the tensioner last time? It can be tricky. (congrats by the way on finding the problem - I woulda given up long ago I think!) Carl

Some people have a relay buzzing and intermittent ABS. I THINK also that system is very sensitive to low voltage from the alternator and is the first system to display odd behavior if one/some rectifiers burnout in the alt. carl

Would that affect compression enough for a comp. test to be diagnostic? Also, if the ECU were inhibiting starting, I bet the injectors would be disabled too - so plugs, cylinders would be dry. I'm so lost (in addition to ignorant) I don't remember if the car gets fuel sprayed in it. I dunno Carl

I dunno, I'd think you'd get a CEL. I THINK if the cam and crank sensors disagree it may not start in order to protect valves - maybe. I dunno if the ECU kills all the ignitor signals. I dunno Carl

I've read it can be easy to damage the tensioner (certain models?) and maybe it allowed for the belt to jump time? Isn't there also a common area where a belt with too much movement will rub/wear? I dunno Carl

I dunno about on a '95, but an ohmmeter can destroy some O2 sensors. The others are likely safe - someone else will comment I hope. Carl

maybe a drum brake conversion? hahaha! Carl

might be worth inspecting inside every connector likely to have been disturbed during all the work for a bent pin or melted connections. I dunno Carl

Just a reminder to take your resistance measurements with the lead polarity in both directions. pin 1 red, pin 2 black - then reverse the leads. On may ECU or other 'solid state' items it will make a difference due to diode effects. good luck Carl

In addition to suggestions here, you might enjoy looking around at http://www.tirerack.com . I have done busines with them and was pleased - but that was rims with tires mounted. I have 'heard' that local tire chains will sometimes match prices with tirerack. good luck Carl

here's similar link. seems to point to a bent pin in a harness connector - I dunno http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42239&highlight=neutral+safety+cylinders Carl

I've heard clicking from the IACV on a different car when the throttle is opened. Maybe normal? Carl

Well, we COULD be wrong. lol! Plus, if swapping tires does alleviate the problem, doesn't mean you're still not driving on a time bomb. Blowouts are no fun. enjoy the vacation! Carl

Well, we COULD be wrong. lol! Plus, if swapping tires does alleviate the problem, doesn't mean you're still not driving on a time bomb. Blowouts are no fun. enjoy the vacation! Carl

Something seems familiar about this problem. Does anyone else recall any threads where only 1/2 the cylinders were trying to fire? that's the part that seems like I've read it before - quite a while ago. Anyone good at advance searching? I dunno way to hang in there though! Carl

I don't mind it snoring a little at idle, its all smooth power when I wake it up! Carl

I now am left with just reading as there are folks involved with WAAAAY more experience than me - but I gotta say, based on reading this morning, it is imperative the plug wires/boots and plugs themselves be carefully inspected. Seems to me the wires/connectors could've been compromised such that it took a while for arcing to destroy them and MAYBE the coil pack or something. I dunno - carry on Carl

Maybe neutral lockout or something? Wouldn't exhibit the symptom of gradually getting worse. Probably Temp Sensor wouldn't either. Maybe IACV is dirty/sticking? Could you have gotten bad gas or water in the tank? Checked the filter? man - I'm just grasping here. I also kinda liked the tooth jumping business for the belt but you say everything lines up. Is it an OEM belt and did it seem EXACTLY like the old one? How bad was the old one? Did it break on you? Carl

Have we discussed why the work was done on this engine to begin with? Was it running well before the work? Also, how long and under what conditions ahs it been stored? Do the plugs get wet when you crank it? That would tell you the injectors are opening at least. Have you tried the 'clear flood' pressing of the accel pedal? Does a strip of paper try to 'suck in' when held at the tailpipe during cranking? Carl

Seems like it would be more likely to stick closed than open - but I suppose it's possible. Have you checked for a wet cylinder? Is it possible an injector is stuck open? Did you get high flow injectors or something?(often a stock pump can't keep up.) I dunno - hope someone else will join us, I'm quickly getting out of my comfort zone! lol! Carl

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59696

Yeah, it could be something as simple as the OP has on a different sized tire, but (as in that other thread) it could mean he needs a new VC on the center diff - evidently about $775 at the dealer. Carl