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Found 6 results

  1. Hey there, I've been visiting for a while to read the threads for advice with my car but just signed up to actually join the conversation. Thanks to all the folks with the experience on here that post on these threads--I cant tell you how many times one of your threads has led me to figure out whats up with my car. Transmission related question for whoever's out there: I drive a 1997 legacy outback with +/-45k miles on a second engine and pushing 250,000 miles on the original transmission. I have pretty bad torque bind that is very apparent in turns. Transmission shifts fine, minus the occasional late or slightly hard shift and the car drives smooth. Question is this: Do i spend the money to replace the Duty C Solenoid and and the Clutch Pack or do I spend a bit more and replace my 250,000 mile trans with a 30-60k mile JDM trans? (All work is my own--so only real consideration is the price of parts) I was just going to fix it until i realized that the parts I'm looking for come out to about half the price of a JDM transmission. (Maybe im looking in the wrong places but solenoid=$130 and clutch pack=$120-200, does that sound right?) I'm a bit attached to this car--Its been a project for me--so getting rid of it is not an option. Thanks in advance for your advice.
  2. Hello. I have a 98 OBW. I am rebuilding the tail housing of my AT transmission. I installed the new clutch pack and now the snap ring will not fit back in place. With the rings back to OEM thickness I cant seem to get the snap ring to fit into the groove. Anyone have any tips? I used part # 31523AA410.
  3. Hey everyone, just bought my first Subaru. Didnt really know a lot about them before i bought it. Found out a couple days after i bought it that the FWD fuse was in so i took it out after seeing it in a hanyes manual, immeddiately noticed torque bind/shuddering at low speed turns. Me not knowing alot about subarus thought it could be timing belt/ power steering issues. looked online for info found a well renowned shop near seattle, took it there and had them take a look at it. Was told its was the transfer clutch and the duty solenoid that were causing the problems. My question is, Is there any one that can recommend a place to get the parts, i dont have 800 bucks that shop wanted for doing it, im pretty sure i could do it myself if any one could point me in the right direction that would be great. As in what i would need and general guidance on the procedure. Thanks
  4. ​Hello, I have a 98 OBW 200+. Bad torque bind, AT light flashing. I opened the tail end of the transmission and things just dropped out. Does anyone have any idea what that broken metal band is to? Also the end of this gear looks sheered off. How bad is this?
  5. I have had some experience repairing various fails of the duty c system. recently I had a solenoid fail mechanically bleeding off atf failing to lock the clutch packs yet the solenoid ohm tested fine and did not throw a tcu code. this all resulted in front wheel drive only this video depicts how I use air pressure to open the valve body and make sure pressure is applied to the clutch disks. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154906353260372&l=4129290750931752898 there are several writeups on how to get to the tail section but I do plan on doing my own with pawl instructions! the one I did find in USRM the guy had a loose one he HOPED would not lock up on him.... GEEZ X.x
  6. Hi all so I have had some headaches with this and never found a decisive video on how to test the rear lockup system I recently had no rear wheel lock up but no TCU code either so this is what I found and how to test the system for functionality before reinstalling into the car. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154906353260372&l=4129290750931752898
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