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Found 8 results

  1. Hey everyone, just bought my first Subaru. Didnt really know a lot about them before i bought it. Found out a couple days after i bought it that the FWD fuse was in so i took it out after seeing it in a hanyes manual, immeddiately noticed torque bind/shuddering at low speed turns. Me not knowing alot about subarus thought it could be timing belt/ power steering issues. looked online for info found a well renowned shop near seattle, took it there and had them take a look at it. Was told its was the transfer clutch and the duty solenoid that were causing the problems. My question is, Is there any one that can recommend a place to get the parts, i dont have 800 bucks that shop wanted for doing it, im pretty sure i could do it myself if any one could point me in the right direction that would be great. As in what i would need and general guidance on the procedure. Thanks
  2. I bought a 97 legacy L, 2.2, auto, 270k. Motor runs , trans has torque bind. Tcu codes show duty c solenoid. I wanted to drive it to see if it was worth fixing the solenoid so I disconnected the rear driveshaft. Torque bind went away but the u-joint is clunking against the differential flange. Is there another connection to the differential behind that bracket it sits in? Do I need to remove the u-joint and if so could you tell me how? I'm a carpenter, not a mechanic. If not for the info on this forum I would never have gotten this far
  3. Hey there, I've been visiting for a while to read the threads for advice with my car but just signed up to actually join the conversation. Thanks to all the folks with the experience on here that post on these threads--I cant tell you how many times one of your threads has led me to figure out whats up with my car. Transmission related question for whoever's out there: I drive a 1997 legacy outback with +/-45k miles on a second engine and pushing 250,000 miles on the original transmission. I have pretty bad torque bind that is very apparent in turns. Transmission shifts fine, minus the occasional late or slightly hard shift and the car drives smooth. Question is this: Do i spend the money to replace the Duty C Solenoid and and the Clutch Pack or do I spend a bit more and replace my 250,000 mile trans with a 30-60k mile JDM trans? (All work is my own--so only real consideration is the price of parts) I was just going to fix it until i realized that the parts I'm looking for come out to about half the price of a JDM transmission. (Maybe im looking in the wrong places but solenoid=$130 and clutch pack=$120-200, does that sound right?) I'm a bit attached to this car--Its been a project for me--so getting rid of it is not an option. Thanks in advance for your advice.
  4. So, I'm just gonna post what I've got going on and what I've found and hopefully people can chime in who know more about this than me. Even if you don't know about all parts of my question please post what parts you do know. I've read alot of posts on this forum and other Subaru forums but this is by far the most involved repair I have attempted. Short version: Duty C solenoid. Most info posted in this thread should apply to 99-04 models as this repair is similar on those years (99 models with TZ1A2 trans) Last fall my AT Temp light started flashing intermittently, with torque bind when it was flashing. After a couple weeks it pretty much stayed on. I found how to get the TCU codes and got codes 93, 27 and 79. According to this post: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113278-how-to-read-transmission-codes/?do=findComment&comment=1103000 27 ATF temperature sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. 79 Transfer duty solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit. 93 Rear vehicle speed sensor. Detects open or shorted input signal circuit. I thought that it had to be a loose TCU cable or something because how could all 3 go bad? I checked the codes a few times over a month or so and got the same codes, clearing them in between at least a couple of those. A while later I was able to try unplugging and reconnecting the main cable at the TCU, Transmission, and the weird little extension above the transmission. Light still on, still torque bind. I was originally writing this post to ask for help verifying the Duty C solenoid, but just last week as I was finally going into detail researching the problem and the repair I decided to check the codes again, and with a few checks over the past week or so it's showing only code 79 which seems to verify that as the specific problem. Now that you've spent a couple minutes reading my description of the problem, here are my actual questions: 1. I have a vibration sometimes, starting at about 60 MPH. Sometimes it is in the steering wheel, sometimes more the whole car, and it varies greatly in strength on different days at the same speed. Sometimes pressing on the brakes hard will make the vibration stop for a while, sometimes not. Does this make any sense to perhaps be caused by the transfer solenoid? 2. Until I have time and money to actually replace the transfer solenoid, can I safely disconnect the front differential solenoid and will that reduce the torque bind when parking? 3. Has anyone else done this on a 99 phase 2 transmission, TZ1A2 who can verify the part numbers I found? 31942AA103 - transfer solenoid 31337AA191 - case gasket 31952AA060 - Transfer valve gasket plate 31523AA410 - transfer clutch pack 31954AA071 - transfer valve gasket gasket 4. I swear I had some other question which I will probably remember on the way to work tomorrow lol Thanks for taking the time to read my long post. I attached the Vin Plate or whatever it's called as well
  5. I have had some experience repairing various fails of the duty c system. recently I had a solenoid fail mechanically bleeding off atf failing to lock the clutch packs yet the solenoid ohm tested fine and did not throw a tcu code. this all resulted in front wheel drive only this video depicts how I use air pressure to open the valve body and make sure pressure is applied to the clutch disks. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154906353260372&l=4129290750931752898 there are several writeups on how to get to the tail section but I do plan on doing my own with pawl instructions! the one I did find in USRM the guy had a loose one he HOPED would not lock up on him.... GEEZ X.x
  6. Hi all so I have had some headaches with this and never found a decisive video on how to test the rear lockup system I recently had no rear wheel lock up but no TCU code either so this is what I found and how to test the system for functionality before reinstalling into the car. https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10154906353260372&l=4129290750931752898
  7. i have purchased a used matching transmission for my 96 legacy because after driving it around with torque bind something in the transmission gave out. (i suspect it is the front diff, between the engine block and the transmission its self) My question is, is how can i check the resistance of the solenoid coil while i still have this transmission outside of the car. id like to know if it is faulty seeing as it is a used transmission, before i install it completely in the car. i am hoping someone knows what pins on the drivers side electrical connection plug is for the solenoid, and what the resistance should be. i really do not want to cut any of the protective outer jacket to trace out the wires on the connector. if i need to post pictures so people know what exactly i am talking about i can. B raynor
  8. I am hoping, beyond what I can search here, someone has or has seen a good scope trace of the Duty C signal. In a perfect world, there would be a trace from an '00-'03 and one from an '04, when apparently the signal polarity was changed. Before '04, +12V to the duty C disabled the AWD, '04 and above, +12V fully activates the duty-C and the AWD. What I am hoping is that I can get reasonably close to the proper signal by using a few transistors to 'invert' the signal.
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