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Found 8 results

  1. Hello all! I've owned several Outbacks in my life but the newest I ever owned was an '03; much has changed since then, obviously!!! I'm considering buying a late model (current generation) Outback with the 6 cylinder engine but am leery of CVTs in general. All the Subarus I've owned have been 4 cylinder, manual transmission vehicles. Knowing that the Outback hasn't been offered with a stick shift for many years I'm left to choose between a CVT and an "old school" automatic. I have two questions for you folks: 1. What was the last year that Subaru offered an automatic (that is, non-CVT) transmission in an Outback? 2. What are your general thoughts, pro v. con, concerning the Subaru CVT? FWIW, I will NEVER tow with a vehicle I own so that's doesn't even enter into my thinking on this. I welcome your input!!
  2. I have a few Subarus but recently picked up 2012 outback, with a Transmission that acts like it never shifts from park? I do believe it is detecting something because there is a very subtle change in the rpms but absolutely doesn't flinch. I was hoping maybe you all had some ideas on whether it is a solenoid or if it is just a POS Subaru low mileage 114k cvt transmission failure? I have a 2012 Legacy transmission but understand its a different generational transmission and is shorter and lighter than the Outback T.. We have a real good drive shaft Shop here in Binghamton, Cook Bros. who could fab a longer drive shaft, but have no idea if the electronics are the same? Also wonder if it is or could be solenoid failure, valve body failure, could I use the legacy parts? Any help or reference would be wonderful.
  3. Hello, Would you happen to know where I can find the right crush washer for the CVT drain and filer plugs? I recently replaced the CVT fluid on my 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i and was forced to use the same washer because I wasn't able to find it, even the Subaru dealer was unable to help me since they claim that fluid is not supposed to be changed. Thank you.
  4. Hi All, My 2014 Subaru Forester has been hesitating when cold and at low speeds and now hesitates, shakes and sounds like I am driving over a washboard under a variety of different conditions, especially at high speeds or when engine is under strain. I have read about this problem for other owners and am surprised I cannot find anything on this topic on this forum. I need help! I have enjoyed this car up until now, but now I am really worried! All comments and thoughts will be appreciated! Rob
  5. Accidentally (please don't ask lol) I wound up draining the CVT fluid. I pumped a lot of it back in but seem to be about a quart shy. I keep pumping but it keeps pouring out of the fill hole. What can I do to remedy this? The vehicle is on 4 jack stands and I did it warm after driving the car about 10 miles. Would cold help? I even tried different angles by using only 2 of the jack stands. Nothing seems to work so I can put all the fluid back. I did drive the vehicle and it is NOT throwing any codes, but I don't want to drive it too far like this. Thx in advance
  6. saw this nice pdf about the CVT on "another Forum" www.atra.com/Webinars/Import/Subaru_Lineartronic_CVT_Introduction.pdf http://www.atra.com/Webinars/Import/Subaru_Lineartronic_CVT_Introduction.pdf (ugh - don't seem to be able to edit spelling error in thread title)
  7. I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0i Sport Limited (automatic CVT) that I am having some problems with the front differential. A little background… I was driving fairly aggressive for 1-2 hours and the “AT Temp” light came on. I the slowed the vehicle exited at the next exit (~8 km) and turned it off to cool. The next day I was driving about 70 mph (~110 km/h) when the vehicle had a sudden jerk and vibrated aggressively. The rpms dropped to ~2000 and would not go higher. I pulled over and smelt something burning. The vehicle now makes a grinding clunking sound under the car when putting the foot on the accelerator. It sounds almost like loose grinding wheel bearings and is coming from the diff/transmission area. At first I thought it was the CVT... But I drained the CVT fluid and there were no signs of metal debris and color looked good. I then drained the front differential and there was fine metal debris on the magnet. I put new fluid in and drove the vehicle 25 miles (~40 km). The sound diminished some, but is still there. I drained the fluid again and it was littered with superfine metal flakes smaller then glitter. I found one piece of metal as thin as a razor blade and about 8mm x 3mm attached to the magnet. I planned on selling the vehicle this month prior to the mishap... so I’m trying to determine my options. My brother is a mechanic and we can do the work. The problem is we can’t find a front differential. It seems that everyone wants to sell the differential with the transmission. My question(s) to the forum are: Does this sound like the front differential needs to be completely replaced? Or is it perhaps an easier repair? If replacement its needed… does the transmission also need to be replaced or can a guy just do the diff? Can any more harm be done if I keep driving the vehicle and ignoring the sound it makes? What are the consequences? Much appreciated!!
  8. Hi all, I'm wondering what's going on with my CVT in my 2014 XV. This happens only occasionally and in similar situations. In manual mode, and 2nd gear, hitting the + paddle sometimes does not initiate an upshift. This is with both the upshift and downshift arrows visible in the display, and generally above 3,000 RPM and below 5,000 RPM. So the car remains in second gear and revs increase. When I hit the paddle again, it upshifts. It tends to happen after cruising slowly in 2nd gear for a couple hundred feet in traffic, then accelerating. Any thoughts from you guys? Thanks! Robert
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