My wifes 97 Impreza stalls going down the road when its not warmed up yet. We just changed the MAF sensor and it seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks but has since started up again. No CEL but i had her observe the AT light and she said it blinks 16 times after it stalls. She has about 140K on it, any ideas would be appreciated.

Where does it idle in P compared to D? Have you done a full tune up. Everyone here will ask you this lol. Like spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, PCV valve. Also try going over ALL hoses make sure nothing is disconnected. Funny you say it was fine after a MAF change but in order to do that certain things would need to be removed. Id try cleaning the throttle body too and IAC valve just by spraying some cleaner down the hose not sure which hose is the IAC on your car though.

yes its time for a full tuneup first.

 

 

The flashing tranny light may or may not be related. Does the cra stall when it comes to a stop, or when you take your foot off the gas?

 

The light is telling you on the previous car operation, there was an electrical fault in the transmission (a OBDII reader will not read this code). How does the car behave when you make a tight U-turn?

 

 

nipper

the flashing AT light shouldn't have anything to do with how the cars engine runs.

Edited October 16, 200916 yr by Bigbusa

the flashing AT light shouldn't have anything to do with how the cars engine runs. It's telling you that your duty C is probably not working and you have torque bind. Does the car turn tight circles on bare tar smoothly or does it hitch, lurch and shudder as you turn?

 

 

Not really, as there are seven solenoids in the transmission and acter the Duty C (most popular) is the Pressure solenoid and the TC solenoid that are the others to throw codes that one may not notice. I have seen a bad tranny temp sensor once in a while too.

 

 

But as is asked here, we need the parking lot test.

 

nipper

The flashing AT temp warning light just indicates that the TCU (transmission control unit) noticed that there was a previous electrically-related problem. It's even possible that the fault was not in the transmission itself. For example, data from the engine TPS (throttle position sensor) is used by the trans, and a problem with the TPS can trigger a trans fault code. In fact, a TPS fault can even cause torque bind. Reading the trans code could provide info helpful to diagnosing the problem.

sorry for the lack of pertinant details, but yes it idles just like a 2.2 should, plugs wires filters all recently changed when we purchased it at 117K. I did take it to a parking lot this morning, a wet cool rainy morning to boot. and did circles both left and right, forward and back without noticing anything amiss. Of course when i drive it i cannot replicate the wifes problems so i guess i will take it in this week and see what the dealer or the Subie Guys say. One other detail tho upon starting it up this morning the check engine light was on and id hoped it would shed some new light but alas it was only the 102 code maf sensor code again so i had them clear it and we will move forward to the next solution. and oh by the way Nipper it stalls both when she comes to a stop and when she is driving down the road.

Sounds like you got another bad MAF! i am pretty sure there was a bulletin of some sort about the MAF's failing.

[...]One other detail tho upon starting it up this morning the check engine light was on and id hoped it would shed some new light but alas it was only the 102 code maf sensor code again so i had them clear it and we will move forward to the next solution. and oh by the way Nipper it stalls both when she comes to a stop and when she is driving down the road.

Why are you dismissing the P0102 code? Poor idle and stalling definitely can be symptoms when that code is triggered. The definition for P0102 is ''Mass air flow sensor circuit low input''. While that can be caused by a bad MAF, it's more likely to be due to a bad connection in the MAF circuit. Since you already replaced the MAF (and especially if that was with a new, not used, part), it's possible that an electrical connection is loose or corroded. Since replacement of the MAF ''seemed to solve the problem for a couple weeks'', a poor connection might be right at the MAF itself.

I know this is an old post and I am sorry if this is not kosher but...

 

I am having EXACTLY this problem and would pay a crisp clean $20 bill to hear what the solution was.... and obw99's mailbox is full.