I have a 1994 Loyale 1.8 Spfi with a cooling problem. I replaced the water pump with timing belt change about 6000 miles ago. Changed the thermostat and flushed the system along with a new cap. The temps run normal on short trips and around town but when on the highway doing 60 mph it almost gets to the red after about 10 -15miles of this running. Also runs warm when using the a/c . I've burped it and I've changed fan clutch and the electric fan works. After searching I think a new radiator is the answer. What else could I be overlooking? Runs great 30+ mpg.

does it consume a small amount of water or frequently boil into the overflow tank when its NOT overheating? If so, you have a small headgasket leak

Doesn't consume any coolant and hasn't overheated to the point of boiling over. When it gets high on temp guage the overflow gains coolant but after it cools it goes back to radiator. Forgot to mention that it will cool itself when decending a 3 mile hill on my return from work.

Doesn't consume any coolant and hasn't overheated to the point of boiling over. When it gets high on temp guage the overflow gains coolant but after it cools it goes back to radiator. Forgot to mention that it will cool itself when decending a 3 mile hill on my return from work.

 

hi, i had a similar experience with my 87, fine on short runs but at sustained hiway speeds it would go up some , to almost hot. I had installed a new thermostat, so i changed it back, problem gone . the one i had put in had a smaller total flow hole, (main opening) than the one i put back. so aftermarket thermostats are not all created equal, or equal to OEM. also ignition timing is important at higher speeds.

when you said you "flushed the system" what did you use to do it. Unless you had high pressure water (flush gun has garden hose attachment and air line attachment) that is the proper way to flush a system. that prestone junk dont work at all its just a waste of $.

 

For what you can pick up a Copper/Brass radiator for these cars now a days, I recommend doing that instead of getting a proper flush done you'll pay about the same price. I got mine up here in Alaska for 107 dollars 2 row CBR.

 

Do a head test on it, napa sells a head test kit for like 25 bucks its got blue watery stuff u put in a test tube that you plug in to your radiator where the cap goes and if it turns yellow, you have a HG leak.

 

One of those laser temperature guns is another way to confirm that your temp gauge on the dash is workin properly. I dont trust any gauge subaru made in the 80's-90's they were all junk.

I'd check into the head gasket idea. That's what it sounds like to me. I've gone through this with 3 or 4 of my rigs and done the same things you've done (only because they were easier then changing the head gaskets). After that I change the head gaskets and problem gone.

could be the core plugged up in the bottom rows . I used to get the radiator shop to pull the tanks and ROD it out ... not just boil it out . Is it cost effective ? I dont know because I dont know the cost of a new Subaru radiator . But it was for the kind of cars I was working on at the time .

 

I'd use a combustion leak tester to check it out before I started pulling heads ( the kind that uses a chemical that turns yellow when you have a leak )

 

most chronic overheating is a plugged radiator . Thermostats dont give as much trouble as people think . Its the first thing replaced but usually doesnt solve the problem . Electric fans working ? check easy stuff first

 

 

Bob

Going to get test kit and check hopefully this week. Going to miss my sube and it's milage on my long drive to work but want it ready for winter. Thanks!

I had the same issue - 88 GL Wagon, EA82/SPFI and it was a clogged radiator. I found here in vancouver that I can get one for roughly 100 bucks.

 

Dean

Radiator definitely go on that

Got the test kit and tested twice and the color did not change so I guess my head gaskets are ok. Now time for a new radiator.

I would change the radiator I just bought mine for about $120 new. however make sure you do not have a leak in any of the hoses as well. i replaced my radiator and as the hoses LOOKED good I let it slide. but one had a small leak and I could not find it kept checking them could not find it tested for heads both with compression and the chemical thing. No issue found a issue with the weber conversion. (was leaking water into carb) (if you have a weber make sure the water port is closed over just the gasket they provide does not fix it for long. YOU MAY or may not see water leaking under the carb when this happens) Fixed that but still had trouble on long rides. NOW i get to replace the head gaskets because the hose opened up and over heated the car. (I would be losing maybe a quart on a 4 hour drive small leak before it opened up)The one I had trouble with was I think?? the return radiator hose. mine had a small leak on the underside of the hose as it leaked down in the same spot it leaks when you add water to the radiator it was really hard to spot. As it is located unter the alternator it was not easy to see. We had 3 people looking for leaks on the hoses and could not spot it before it opened up. So check the little things too.

The radiator was the problem. Installed new one and now no more cooling problems plus I now have the head test kit for use again in the future if needed. Thanks