So looking at the Auto-zone website looking up rear drums it shows, that the hatchback has it's own brake drum. Anybody have any experience with this, and if so can I just use the drum from the wagon sedan coupes? Seeing as the price is double for the hatchback drums. Any help would be awesome thanks.

AFAIK, they are the same across all EA81's. If you are looking up parts for an '86 though you are probably seeing EA82 parts under wagon/sedan/coupe, and EA81 parts under Hatchback/Brat.

 

For most things, you should lookup parts for a 1984 as that was the final year for the EA81 body style other than the Hatch and Brat. I think you'll find that '84 gives you fewer options and it probably IS the more expensive of the two you are seeing.

 

You could go to the yard's and get the EA82 backing plates/wheel cylinders and the EA82 drums will bolt up and work fine. Or you can upgrade to rear disc's from any Turbo EA82.

 

GD

^yep. since they're all named by their trim level, an '86 "GL" could be an EA81 or EA82. although a Brat would probably be listed as a "Brat GL". so yea, only way to decipher them is by body style.

 

 

I bet, as GD said, if you look them up for an '84, they'd be the same part number for all body styles.

yeah looks like that's the case looked up 84 GL and it was the same as the 86 hatch. Any benefits of going with ea-82 drums over the earlier ones? other then cheaper and seemingly more available. Oh not that it seems to matter but it is a 4x4.

4WD makes it easier as there is no bearing components in the drums.

 

EA82 drums are slightly larger. And if they are cheaper then it would seem like a good idea to aquire the backing plates and get some new drums and cylinder's.

 

The EA82 stuff is self-adjusting too.

 

GD

besides some of the upullits is there a good spot to find that kind of hardware? Subaru graveyard of sorts?

OK now im lost I put a ea82 drum on my 83 wagon It works:confused:

Well I found an 86 wagon at the part yard, with all four brakes intact. Does anybody know if ea81 front hubs and ea82 hubs are the same? I'm wanting to jack all the hardware so I can to a six lug swap while keeping the car on the road as long as possible. How hard is it to pull a transmission out of one of these little cars? it also has a Dual range 5 speed.

The front hubs are all the same across the EA81/EA82 4 lug stuff. ONLY the hubs though. The knuckle, axle, brake, etc are all different. But the hubs are interchangable. Check for spline wear, grooves in the lip seal surface, and clean cone washer mating surface.

 

Pulling the tranny is not that hard - it's putting them back in that's the pain. Before you pull it - remove the drain plug and look at the diff teeth with a flashlight. After you pull it look for evidence of seal leakage on the input shaft and check for play in the input shaft. Then make sure it feels smooth and there are no strange crunching noises as you rotate the input shaft and go through all the gears.

 

GD

Edited November 10, 200916 yr by GeneralDisorder

Thanks for the info on the hubs, not sure if I'll snag the tranny or not, what does it take to get it out? Do you have to pull the front suspesion apart or just unhook the motor and driveline drop it down then pop off the axles?

Depends on how you lower it. If you lower it with a jack or transmission jack then you can push it to the left/right to get the axles off (after you drive out the roll pins).

 

But yeah - remove the y-pipe, disconnect the driveline, the linkage, and the engine. Should basically drop out on the ground.

 

GD

Thanks for the info on the hubs, not sure if I'll snag the tranny or not, what does it take to get it out? Do you have to pull the front suspesion apart or just unhook the motor and driveline drop it down then pop off the axles?

 

Basically that's it.

I'm not sure, but you may have to pull a stabilizer bar, but that's about it.

Break it loose from the engine, pull the driveline (after making sure the tranny is

fluid free), unbolt the linkages from the body, and drop the crossmember.

Really simple. and if there's any thing in the way, pull it off or maneuver the

tranny around it.

:edit: And pull the exhaust Y-pipe, as mentioned by GD, I forgot about it.

 

Twitch

Edited November 10, 200916 yr by Twitch de la Brat
GD is good...

Sounds simple enough, just have to look at how much room I have to maneuver under the car that's propped up on wheels Anybody converted from 4 to 5 speed, like it hate it impressions?

You will never want a 4sp again and in your eyes it will become needed hardware for any older soob you may own in the future. You will be thinking about adding it to other makes and models too.

Well got the drums backers and front hubs off in about 40 minutes all for $60 not to bad really. Might get the tranny looks like there's room to maneuver under the car a bit, wait till I have a extra body to get help if the car falls on me haha. Anybody by chance happen to have a tool list of what I'd need to pull the tranny out at a junkyard?

 

GeneralDisorder: In another post saw you mention chain driven portal boxes, my kind of guy, had that thought since I'd picked up a baja years ago.

GeneralDisorder: In another post saw you mention chain driven portal boxes, my kind of guy, had that thought since I'd picked up a baja years ago.

 

Yeah - someday I'll be geared up to do it.

 

Let me think on the tool list. I'll try to come up with something. I generally take several tool bags and sometimes a caddy (the woman) to help carry them.

 

GD

let's see. I'll probably forget something, but I'll get the list started.

 

17mm for the front crossmember.

14mm for the rear crossmember, and bellhousing/starter bolts/nuts

12mm for the linkage (you'll want a few versions, box wrench, socket, maybe ratchet wrench).

plyers/flathead for the clutch cable clip

12mm and 10mm wrenches for the clutch cable nuts

12mm box wrench for driveshaft bolts

12 or 14mm for driveshaft carrier bearing bolts

Philips screwdriver for interior trim and shifter boot (you may want to bring a knife. the screws holding the rubber boot to the body are frequently rusted...)

 

 

that's all I can think of.

 

so bare minimum

sockets: 12, 14, 17mm (obviously a ratchet. a couple extensions would be nice too)

wrenches: 10, 12

plyers, and a few screwdrivers.

12mm for the linkage (you'll want a few versions, box wrench, socket, maybe ratchet wrench).

 

so bare minimum

sockets: 12, 14, 17mm (obviously a ratchet. a couple extensions would be nice too)

wrenches: 10, 12

plyers, and a few screwdrivers.

 

When unbolting my transmission my linkages were 13mm, so you may want to include that in your tool bag.

Also throw in a rubber mallet or something to beat on your wrenches with to

help break loose those extra stubborn bolts.

 

Twitch

I might just end up picking it up, just so damn busy. Scored today though headed up to the wheel place up the street to get a wheel to do the six lug conversion, and there sat a set of 14in steel pugs. So $40 bucks later and a hatch load of wheels away I went. Got a set of winter tires on hold for tomorrow, damn I'm stoked. Anybody running a 195/70/14? says it's a 24.75 inch tall tire, Heard 25 is big as you can fit so I'm hoping that works out.