I'm gonna remove the sound deadening material with dry ice and I have a few questions. How much am I gonna need to break up the deadener in a 1990 Loyale wagon. I have to go 70 miles to get dry ice so I would rather error on the high side. I'm thinking I'll get it in pellets and spread it all out on the floor and start whacking the floor with a rubber mallet. Would it be better to heat the sound deadener up with a heat gun before I put the dry ice down to help it pop up easier?

What is the purpose for removal? This sounds like a waste of a lot of valuable time with no benefit in the end.

I am building an all out mud rig and I want it as light as possible

Have you tried just hitting it with a hammer/chisel?

 

I got MOST of my sound deadening out without needing to use dry ice.

 

Might be worth a shot before you go driving.

tex is right.....as a matter of fact he is the one that told me to do it like that:)

i had the boy do it with a ball peen and chisel.....over half the time he just whacked it and it would crack off in big chunks.

then he chiseled the rest....cheers, brian

+1 on what Tex said about hitting it with a hammer first. You definitely don't want to heat it up with a heat gun before you put the dry ice on. The idea of the dry ice is to make the sound deadener as brittle as possible. I stripped the cab of a Toyota truck this summer using about 50 lbs. total of dry ice, and I could have used a lot less if the weather was cooler.

 

You may be able to get dry ice from your local ice cream store, or an ice cream wholesaler. I bought all mine from a place that supplies ice cream trucks. Some grocery stores sell it.

 

Wear safety glasses, as shards will fly everywhere.

 

Carb cleaner works really well removing any residue left.

i just thought expanding the asphalt with the heat gun and then contracting it really suddenly with the dry ice would break it loose easier.

I did the same on my BRAT. I used a hammer, wood chisel and paint scraper.

IMO, save yourself the time and money and take a few hours over a couple of days to chisel it out.

i just thought expanding the asphalt with the heat gun and then contracting it really suddenly with the dry ice would break it loose easier.

 

If you heat the sound deadening up, then the dry ice will need that much longer to cool it down. This is why removing sound deadening is easier on a cold winter day than a blazing hot summer day. I stripped a Nissan 720 in the winter, and Toyota in the summer. The Toyota took me twice as long. The only time a heat gun will be of use to you is cleaning up any residue.

 

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The dry ice worked fantabulously. 50 lbs was way too much. But that just means I had some left over for dry ice bombs!