I got my subie all legal now. $40plates and $20/mon insurance, not bad...

if i figure out how to post pics, i'll post them

 

1. Removed the bad brake line and plugged the line with 10x1.00p metric

(have brake pressure again.) looking for suitable replacement brake line

even if I have to bend it myself, its going to be a PITA to install cause i have to remove the dash to get to the brake connector on the other side of the firewall above the master cylinder (ARRGHHH)-- i might as well replace the last section of steel brake line as well, never know when it might blow out.

 

2. R/R exhaust bolts with 4-10x1.25p 50mm and new gas seals. all quiet now!

installed 2" flex and straight pipe along with glaspack. coated pipe inside and out with high temp silica paint. (incr the rust resistance).

 

3. Starter and battery tested, starter bearings were marginal- replaced it.

 

4. Key is tempermental in switch- had new key cut , a little better, but store wouldnt sell key blank. need to have blank to make higher peaks on key to compensate for previous key wear.

NOTE: before getting new key, i tried the following;

---Tried bypassing the key switchlock asmbly using OLD key to unlock

---steering wheel, worn key wouldnt unlock steering wheel. Removed ignition switch and used screwdriver to turn

---switch to start. Engine will NOT start. Switch itself must be grounded.

 

 

Short term:

Immediate: Engine Flush, oil and filter changes- should I change the diff oil? prbly should being that oil was barely on the ds and feels gritty.

also, radiator was 3qts low. boy, was this car abused...

a good vacuuming.

 

 

bit longer goal

What remains,

Need new driver seat, PO broke the springs...

reinstall center components, radio, power point, etc...

 

Gas gauge shows tank empty, even though tank full.

-whats wrong, where do I start looking for the fault?

 

Hatch strut lift supports need replacing, riveted in, no pins for removal.

-Do I replace the rivets with cotter pins?

 

Need carb tuning/ (rebuild?) (backfires once in a while.)

150 miles and still running on 'empty' tank of fuel to determine MPG.

Have 2.5 gal can JIC. Results should determine if carb needs work.

 

While doing right turn, engine sputters and dies if I dont interfere- carb issue?

 

Need some body work, repair patch holes created by rust virus.

should get it done this summer before next winter sets in and the city/state starts dumping snow melting corrosives on the street again. Yeah, those holes next to the drivers seat is not a good place for water, snow, mud, rocks, dirt, dust to come in and get my uniform messy...

 

 

Long term:

Have suspension corrosion that need attention. its not bad now, but sections will be in need of being repaired/replaced if rust not stopped.

Edited March 29, 201016 yr by Sioux-baru

have lock smith cut key from door or trunk

 

check crankcase ventilation system, classic turn right - suck oil

 

what body, engine, year?

have lock smith cut key from door or trunk

check CrankCase Ventilation System, classic turn right - suck oil

what body, engine, year?

 

locksmith- key cut from trunk, got it.

 

'86 GLHB ea81 J F 2 A F 5 3 B 0 G E ###### if that helps any

 

Forgive me here i dont understand, in a right turn, the CCVS is sucking oil?

- If so how do i fix?

- I thought it was a carb problem with fuel starvation.

 

SB

the ignition switch does not need to be grounded. none of the wires going to it are ground wires, and the housing does not need to be grounded either...

Yes, it Doesn't Need to be Grounded...

 

... in a right turn, the CCVS is sucking oil?

- If so how do i fix? ...

 

Seems like The Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve (PCV) Located behind / under the Carb, in the intake Manyfold; is receiving Oil from the Hoses that brings Fumes from each Head to the Air Filter Box... The PCV is connected to the Air Filter Box too but maybe a Bad Hoses` Connection at the Air Filter Box is making the PCV to Suck the Oil that is Blown by those Head's Hoses...

So I Suggest to Check the Hoses Config and maybe it will be needed a New PCV Valve.

Good Luck; Kind Regards.

the ignition switch does not need to be grounded. none of the wires going to it are ground wires, and the housing does not need to be grounded either...

 

I'm going to test this one more time, remove the switch and try starting it then taking a wire from the switch case to ground and see what happens.

 

it also could be that I have 'christine' for a car..

SB

I carry a spare with me, and if the column ones has problems, I disconnect at the plug, plug in the spare, and hold it in my hand while starting...