I've searched for a couple hours and tried a couple things mentioned in various threads but the information is scattered and very confusing - I'm not sure if half of the threads are talking about pulling the TCU codes or the ABS codes......

 

Anyway - I have a '95 Legacy with the 2nd generation ABS system (ABS-2E I think it is?). The light is on and I've checked and cleaned all the wheel sensor's. I need to pull the codes and find out what it's problem is - I've located the self-diagnostic connector and the two ground pins that are attached to it - found references to pin's 5 and 6 needing to be grounded as well as a picture of the pinout.... but I'm not having any luck with it. Either that is for the TCU codes or I'm not doing it right..... well something is wrong anyway.

 

I'm looking for a clear explanation of what I have to do to pull the darn codes and a list of what they mean. My Haynes manual is of no use as usual since it says to take it to the dealer . The endwrench article on ABS systems is of no use either since I don't have an FSM to reference the pages they say have the info on pulling the codes and what they mean .

 

GD

Edited April 10, 201015 yr by GeneralDisorder

A cracked tone ring will throw a code.

With the engine not running, insert a ground wire into the correct pin position (I'll get to that in a moment). Turn the ignition switch to "ON" -- dont start the engine, and don't step on the brake pedal. Codes are flashed in "longs" and "shorts". The first code should be "11" (one long, then one short), then any trouble codes (for example, two longs, then three shorts would be "23").

 

As to which pin to use:

Usually for ABS it's #6. However, there's one place in the '95 factory service manual that mentions pin #4 -- but that pin is shown on the wiring diagram to be for TCS (not ABS) diagnostics. I suppose you could try it if #6 doesn't work.

 

The pin numbering of the connector is as follows:

1----2

3 4 5 6

 

Assuming you retrieve something, let us know what codes you get.

It was indeed pin 6 - thank you for the correct procedure.

 

I have these codes:

 

11

27

29

52

 

Any ideas?

 

And how can I clear the codes? Or do they just clear when you fix the problem?

 

Thanks a bunch,

GD

Probably need to do the old clear them then see which ones come back first gig. Good luck.

I figured I probably should do that - I found an old post with the procedure. ABS light still on but only showing code 11 (which is normal from what I gather). Cleared the codes and then drove it around the block - did a few "panic" stops - codes now show 11 and 27 but the rest are gone.

 

So I guess I need to know what code 27 means.... can't search for it on the board since 27 is only two characters and even with wildcards I still can't get the search engine to play my game.

 

GD

11 = Start code (Always generated - if no other codes follow, okay)

27 = Abnormal ABS sensor (Open circuit or input voltage too high) Rear left

29 = Abnormal ABS sensor (Abnormal signal) Any one of four wheel sensors

 

For codes that return after clearing, first make sure that connections are solid. For 27 & 29, look over the rear left sensor and wiring for damage. Disconnect it and the rear right one, and compare sensor resistance readings. A bad sensor will often read higher resistance, sometimes completely open.

I found a missing fuse - don't know which one it was since the cover and owners manuals are also missing . Looking in other vehicles I have it seems the ABS fuse is a 20 amp - and it's in about the right location to be that one. I'm thinking the previous owner may have pulled the fuse thinking it would rid them of the light..... so I stuck a 20 amp fuse in there - perhaps that's why code 52 didn't show up again.

 

The 29 could be all the crap I cleaned out of the tone rings and the sensor area - the car sat in a feild for a few years, and it looks like the woman drove it with the e-brake on a bit - I had to tighten the shoes quite a bit to get the lever back in a decent place and there was a LOT of brake dust in there for something that is never used to actually stop the car.

 

Am I right in assuming that the rear left sensor would be the *passenger* side rear sensor? I'm assuming so. I'll go check resistance.

 

Thanks for the super-excelent help

 

GD

Edited April 11, 201015 yr by GeneralDisorder

Should be driver side rear. Direction, left and right, is generally in reference to the driver sitting behind the wheel (facing forward of course!)

Ok - yeah - brain fart. I tested both and the driver's side rear sensor is open so that's the culprit alright. Now.... where to get one?

 

Anyone know where to get one cheap?

 

GD

Ok - yeah - brain fart. I tested both and the driver's side rear sensor is open so that's the culprit alright. Now.... where to get one?

 

Anyone know where to get one cheap?

 

GD

 

There's a 95 Legacy at the Pick-N-Pull on Foster Road. I'm not sure if it has ABS or not, but I'm going there tomorrow.

I may not be able to get there tomorrow - woman is off work Mon/Tue.... if you could peek under the hood and let me know if it has ABS that would be great!

 

Thanks,

GD

A little update:

 

Thanks to all that helped me out with this one - I got a good sensor at the yard thanks to the tip from 2.5_GT, and with the help of OB99W I got the codes pulled and cleared. Thank you both for your time and helpful information.

 

Total cost of repair: $15 for a good used left-rear wheel sensor.

 

The other two codes have not returned - the light is out and the ABS is working. I locked up the wheels in a parking lot and felt it engage.

 

GD

[...]Thanks to all that helped me out with this one - I got a good sensor at the yard thanks to the tip from 2.5_GT, and with the help of OB99W I got the codes pulled and cleared. Thank you both for your time and helpful information.[...]

You're welcome.