August 8, 201015 yr just so i understand if i want to do a 4" lift i need to drop all points being moved 4 inches or am i wrong on that point
August 8, 201015 yr Author BTW check out my strut extensions thanks to Jerry for the info and materials and my brother for machining them my lift is started
August 8, 201015 yr While technically correct you have to offset the front strut lift blocks, if you don't the camber will be wonky
August 8, 201015 yr Author so does anyone see an issue with this lift? all blocks are 4 inches and strut extensions are 4"
August 8, 201015 yr Im asuming on the rear your using 4 indevidular blocks, if so it would be best to tie them together with diaganal stock welded up. Ive seen these blocks bend out the captive body nuts if left single, if its just for a poser your good
August 8, 201015 yr Those strut extensions do not appear to correct for camber nor support the strut top in any significant way. I would not build them that way but that's just my opinion. I'm planning to do a small run of my own strut top design which allows for camber adjustment via slots in the lower plate. But I haven't got around to having the plates laser cut yet so I only have my prototype set. Your blocks look much too thin as well. 1/4" is the smallest wall thickness I would consider without further structural support. I've seen 3/16" wall blocks get crushed under a 4" lifted EA81 wagon. GD
August 8, 201015 yr Hey Everybody This is Jerry, those lift blocks for the front struts are at the bottom of the strut so there for you don't need to adjust for camber. I have a set on my hatchbrat and they have been on there for 6 years i haven't had any problems yet and now i am driving it to work putting on 500 miles a week. The tires are showing no crazy ware patteren, at the top of the strut yes you have to adjust but at the bottom no adjustment needed. Thanks Jerry
August 9, 201015 yr That is still going to kick the camber out a little - I would have to draw it out to find out how much but I suspect it's less than building strut top plates. Not a bad idea though and the camber could still be corrected elsewhere. Do you weld them to the bottom of the strut or clamp them somehow? I could see welding them being a problem if you needed to replace one. I've bent a few struts off-road though that's due to not adding enough extra shocks for dampening. GD
August 18, 201015 yr Author camber isn't that bad i think i will shorten the extensions a little bit to make it perfect
August 21, 201015 yr Look good! Need some bigger tires now. I have 205/75/14 on my pugs, that size, or maybe a bit bigger would look good on your car!! And what's the orange car in the foreground??
August 24, 201015 yr I like it! Some tires will really make it look good. I spy a Type 3 VW. Is that yours?
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