I have an EJ22 in my Brat all ready to go wiring is almost complete other than i have no spark.

 

Fuel pump relay works, ignition relay works and I even have power to the coil. It's driving me nuts as to why it's not firing. Any help would be very very appreciated... very

Cam sensor or crank sensor hooked up?

Yes and they are, the only things that aren't hooked up are the, knock sensor and oxygen sensor.

"Fuel pump relay works, ignition relay works"

 

 

define. wired as stock (ECU controlling them) or not? more info on the EJ22?

I followed your diagram on your write up to a T. That's when the fuel pump started working. The fuel pump is ECU controlled.

 

The engine is out of a wrecked 90 leg, pretty sure it was standard

 

I feel like there's more I can tell but I can't think right now.

did you rebuild the engine? check the cam pulleys for the detents on the back to make sure the correct one is on the correct camshaft, if you have them backwards the sensor won't get a signal, DAMHIK

Did not rebuild the engine, it's in great condition pulled it out of the car with 90k on it.

Make sure you have over 10v to the ecu 'while' cranking. If it drops to 9v the ecu might not have enough juice.

OK gave that a try and...

 

Back up power supply has 12v while cranking (expected)

 

ECU Power supply drops well below while cranking

Should I run a bigger wire to the ECU to fix it?

It might be cranking off the starter line, try a straight battery hot to see, like using the wire nut as a "switched source".

 

Are you wired off the ignition? I found the red wire is to the starter, which has a lot of draw, but, the large black wire is the second power to the column, doesn't go to the starter. That was a problem I had. It put the power just to low to send a spark signal to the ignitor.

Yo'j your last post got me thinking, fortunately I saw it right before the site went down.

 

The wire I had going into the ignition switch was in the wrong location so when I turn to the start position it wouldn't have any power, 2 second fix YAY!!

 

So now the brat runs just doesn't move. I'm having my XT6 axles shortened this week, but in the mean time I want to get the can moving. So I'm just going to use the outside ends of the axles to hold the hubs together and wire in the locking center diff on the RX trans.

 

Problem is I'm not sure what I'm doing I've got the solenoids for the vacuum lines I'm just not certain as to where to hook them up to, (mainly wiring) I could use any help here. I'm trying to get this thing driving by the weekend... or next:grin:

The switch has 3 wires.

 

Provide one with power.

 

The other 2 get connected the solenoids, 1 each.

 

If the operation is backwards (locked in the unlocked position) just reverse the vacuum lines out of the solenoids.

Are we talking about using an aftermarket switch?

 

Cause I have the factory swtich from the center console and it has 5 wires, are the other 2 for lights?

Are we talking about using an aftermarket switch?

 

Cause I have the factory swtich from the center console and it has 5 wires, are the other 2 for lights?

 

Yeah, probably.

 

Probably if there is a Red/Green and a Red those are the lights. But that's a guess.

 

I was thinking of the 4wd button on single ranges, operates the exact same solenoids and vacuum pot to shift 4wd as the Difflock on the FT trans.

Got that setup, easy enough.

 

I was able to drive the brat back and forth in the garage with just the rear axles:grin:

 

Now the car won't idle any more, I have not adjusted the TPS or do I have the oxygen sensor set up yet or the exhaust built. Just wondering if there's any other suggestions for what to do.

So I got it going now, but I don't have the tach working I believe it's wired correctly. I ran the VSS wire to the tach connector then grounded the other end, nothing.

 

[attach]8126[/attach]

Edited October 17, 201015 yr by martimus919

Marty's brat is so hot right now. Fun to drive also if you ignore the random vibrations

good job

Edited October 17, 201015 yr by bheinen74
oops didnt see page 2. thats odd it didnt show?

So I got it going now, but I don't have the tach working I believe it's wired correctly. I ran the VSS wire to the tach connector then grounded the other end, nothing.

 

??

 

 

VSS is the vehicle speed sensor. Which should be the signal coming from the speedo telling the ECU when you're moving. Not related to the tach

Ya numbchux I just read over that spfi conversion again about the gauge cluster. I guess i just assumed they meant VSS... I'm retarded.

 

So I'm just going to take a wild stab at this and assume I take the Engine tachometer output wire and plug that into the yellow wire instead.

 

Also any tips/ideas on how to put in some RS seats, the Corbeau seat was extremely easy considering i just mounted it to the stock seat rails.

Ok I finally got back to working on the Brat after parking it last summer. I have it really close to passing emissions but the C.O. fluctuates constantly from 0.06-5.00% everything else is great, help please. Also anybody have a P/S rack? The one I got from the junk yard turned out to be bad. I'm about ready to just get one from rockauto.com But I need to get him done soon. He's going to be my commuter so I don't eat through tires on the wife's car.

do you have the O2 sensor and the knock sensor hooked up yet?

Yes I do, I've been wondering if the o2 sensors bad though I haven't had the time to check it since I thought of it.