Commuter Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 1997 Legacy Outback, 693,000 km. My ventilation settings are no longer working. It stays on the bi-level setting (the one I'm on 98% of the time) and won't switch no matter what button I press. Everything else seems fine. A/C, recirc, etc. This did happen once last winter. After punching the buttons a few times, it started working again. So... Electrical connection? Vent actuator dead (or dead spot)? Stuck linkage / vents? ??? What is the most likely culprit? Where should I start looking? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vasy Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Same thing happened to my 96 OBW 3 months ago @ 130k miles. I purchased an OEM control unit (part # 72311AC054) from Subaruonlineparts.com for $209.09 including shipping and replaced the original unit. This is the entire unit with multiple buttons above the radio. That fixed the problem. My local dealer would charge me $270.57 plus tax for the same part. Some say you can fix the unit by resoldering the broken/weak joint on the back of the unit's circuit board. I think that's certainly possible but that takes some try and error and for the intermittent problem it's not a quick fix. This can be potentially a safety issue because the windshield defogging might not work depending which mode you're stuck in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 I am fairly certain I have one of those in my store of parts. Let me know if you want me to dig it out for you. Make me an offer on it and we can make a deal. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Like Mike said occasionally I sell one of these used. Not many seem to go bad really. Not hard to change out. I'd use the procedure for replacing the HVAC light bulbs if you need one. With the additional tip someone mentioned about unhooking the cable at the floor rather than at the back of the control unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 With the additional tip someone mentioned about unhooking the cable at the floor rather than at the back of the control unit. of all the things i have removed from these cars, this was in the top 3 as most difficult. disconnecting anywhere but at the unit is a really good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vasy Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 of all the things i have removed from these cars, this was in the top 3 as most difficult. disconnecting anywhere but at the unit is a really good idea. I removed this unit twice in the past 3 years. First time to replace the light bulbs and this year to replace the entire unit. Both times I disconnected it from below the glove box and that's not bad at all. If you try to disconnect from the control unit's cable end at the unit, you'll have to fight with a retaining ring in a very confined space. That's the pain people refer to. I highly recommend to get the problem fixed. If it's stuck at the foot mode which happened to my car in July, AC's cool air can't get to the upper half of my body where it's needed the most. That renders the AC practically useless. Another board (http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/74-outback-4-cylinder/28127-having-problem-hvac-controls.html) also has such a post for a 97 OBW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Hey Vasy: Where are you in Richmond? Is that Va., or Ca.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vasy Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 Hey Vasy: Where are you in Richmond? Is that Va., or Ca.? Hi Mike, in Midlothian, VA, right where you live. I PMed you a couple of times in the past. Last time was about finding used rims for snow tires. I got a set of rims from a junk car in Chesterfield Auto Parts in Feb this year for a very good price. They sell rims with tires on but I didn't need these old tires so after I mounted new snow tires on the rims, I brought back the old tires to CAP and got my refund. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 If the button is stuck, or sort of stuck, it can happen if soft drinks from the cup holder spill down upon the HVAC control buttons. To fix this, I use Windex and paper towels. I spray and wipe, and keep pushing the buttons until they move in and out easily during the entire spray and wipe process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 If the button is stuck, or sort of stuck, it can happen if soft drinks from the cup holder spill down upon the HVAC control buttons. To fix this, I use Windex and paper towels. I spray and wipe, and keep pushing the buttons until they move in and out easily during the entire spray and wipe process. +1 for the windex. then after they work pretty well and are dry, how about some silicone spray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted October 5, 2010 Share Posted October 5, 2010 I'd be interested in one of the used ones if someone was willing to let it go for cheap? make an offer with shipping to 94511 (CA) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 +1 for the windex. then after they work pretty well and are dry, how about some silicone spray? Good idea regarding using silicone spray. I will try that next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suba9792 Posted October 6, 2010 Share Posted October 6, 2010 same prob with my 97 Lego, but my problem was I hit a pot hole at 40mph and my rockstar gushed on the dash, didnt think anything of it wiped it off. Then a week later my buttons where stuck except for 2 of them, so yeah I did the windex paper towel trick a few weeks ago and viola! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I've had to replace my HVAC control thingy in my legacy. First all the lights went out in it at the same time after a big bump (obviously not the bulbs..). Then the linkage from the slidy on the front to the cable broke about a week later. I just got one from a junk yard for about $15, put it in and was good to go. Some people paying over $200 for these?!?! HOLY CRAP! I could buy a good condition ej22 for that price... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commuter Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Thanks for the replies. The buttons are not stuck. No problem there. I am fully aware of how to take this unit apart as I have done it about 4 or 5 times now over the years to replace bulbs. I just did it a few months ago the last time. I know all about disconnecting the cable at the lower end, thanks. So... seems the consensus is a bad board? Hmmmm... I really don't want to spend $200 on a car that is not worth much more than that. Especially if I don't know that is really is the board. I guess I could take it apart and clean up the contacts and see what happens. Right now, I'm stuck on the bi-level setting which is what I use 95% of the time. I've thought of just buying a 12V plug in fan for those times that I need to clear the windshield. Not elegant, but much less than $200. If someone does have a used board for a fair price, I'm interested. But until I rule out the connection or actuator, I'm a bit hesitant to pay more than a minimal amount to be honest. Commuter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Commuter Posted October 31, 2010 Author Share Posted October 31, 2010 Before buying a unit, I decided to take it apart again. Nothing much to see that I haven't already seen. I squeezed some dielectric grease into the connector. I pushed in on and off the pins several times. Hooked everything back up and viola, it works. So, it would seem to be a flaky connection. Or possibly there is a break in a trace on the board some where and my messing with it brought the connection back (for now). We'll see. Fingers crossed. Thanks everyone. If I do have to replace it, I know that there are units out there and I'm well versed in taking these things apart. I don't expect to have the car much longer, so here's hoping it keeps working for as long as I need it to. Commuter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill90Loyale Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Hi Guys- Just bought a 99 Legacy sedan, 2.2L with non-functional ventilation. The blower works, but no real ventilation out the cabin vents and no real functionality at the buttons. Could someone walk me through the removal process or feed me a link to a good repair thread please? I'm a former Loyale owner (and got 277K out of it before rust did me in) so I'm fairly adept, but don't know the trick to avoid the nightmare removal scenario. Thanks in advance for any help. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 there is a great thread w/ great pics on removing the HVAC control. i don't think it is on this board but i know it is out there. it has to do with ''bulb replacement'', you might try searching that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 this one is pretty good, but it does not cover the dis-connect of the heater cable at the lower end. plus it stops short and says ''go no further'' which is not accurate. you can remove more, making it easier to get to the bulbs. in case you haven't figured it out yet, replace the bulbs before you install the ''new used'' unit. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/change-heater-control-lights-95-99-legacy-26408.html?t=26408&highlight=bulb+replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill90Loyale Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 (edited) Thank you John - that's a great link and very helpful. If anyone could give me a "how to" on disconnecting the heater controls at the lower end, I'd appreciate it very much. Edited May 13, 2011 by Bill90Loyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 Bill90--read post #36 in the thread johnc gave you. It's been years since I did it but I remember that it is super easy. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill90Loyale Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 Thanks very much Olnick. While I think my bulbs may be burned out too (I just bought this 99 legacy sedan a couple days ago), my primary issue is that only a couple of the ventilation buttons work (down to the feet or defrost, but no bi-level or straight on blast). Is this definitely a broken solder issue or will I be able to correct this when I remove the control panel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 i had a similar problem in one of my cars due to spilling coke onto it. i was able to spray windex on it and work the buttons loose and then sprasy silcone on it. i have sold the car but it was still working when i sold it. on another one, i did the same thing and i got the buttons moving but the functions never started working. as a matter of fact i lost one of the ones that had been working. so i swapped that one out. regarding the lower end of the cable. it is located ner the fire wall on the passenger side next to the center ''hump''. it attaches to a white / ivory colored post on the vent control. to remove it you have to pull the ''c-clip'' which is in the center of the metal wedged shape clip. it looks a little like a binder clip for papers. pull the c-clip, then slip the cable to the side out of the larger clip. now you have to swivel it around until it clears a white plastic piece and slide it up off of the post. the only difficult part is reinstalling the c-clip after you have put it all back together. and you want the heat control lever position up top to match the vent position down below. full cold , i think, can't remember. this ensures you get full movement in the lever and the vent once done. it also means you are not getting any heat when you have it on cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill90Loyale Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Thanks again John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Love the mountains Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 This is a really old thread, but here's hoping that someone can offer advice. Our 97 Outback has the same problem - only very rarely will the vent location change, and then I can change it to any setting, until it gets stuck again. I'd like to check the solder on the circuit board. We have taken out the HVAC control unit (and replaced the bulbs), but can't get the circuit board out of it. Can someone give me guidance on that or direct me to that information? Thanks, Beth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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