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Would like some opinions on whats wrong with my OBS


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Hi all,

I have a 98 OBS MT with about 199k orig. This morning when I was driving to work, it was getting really hard to shift and ground the gears a few times when I shifted. At first I thought I didn't press the clutch hard enough but no matter how hard I pressed I still ground the gears.

 

And then I couldn't put it in gear from N at the stop light a couple times. I needed to turn off the car, put it in gear, then start it back up. Everything seems to be fine once it started, it may have some SLIGHT shatter that I thought it was normal. However, I still had a really hard time shifting.

 

Then, after a mile or 2, the car just lost power. No matter what gear I put in there was just no power transmitted to the wheels. Also, it shattered really hard when the gear tried to engage, oh, and it smelled like burn too. I pulled over and check the trans oil and it seemed like there was oil.

 

The car is in the shop right now and they won’t be able to look at it until tomorrow. So I would like to see what you guys have to say. I really appreciate your help!

 

Service History:

 

Clutch changed in Apr 06; new timing belt, WP, Cam seals in Apr 09; Changed trans and rear diff oil in May 09; Last Eng oil change was this summer @ 195k

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98 does not have a cable. I am going with either theclutch or Master and Slave cylinders. (replace them as a pair). 06 on the clutch is almost 5 years, so a bit soon for it but you never know.

 

It was the previous owner who replaced the clutch. So I have no idea where he got the parts from. But he is an aircraft mechanic and seems to keep the car in real good shape so I have no reason thinking he used cheap parts. I have the record at home (he save all receipts since day 1.) but I'm at work right now...

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make sure the clutch cable isn't just broken, stretched, or a bolt came loose. if it was previously worked on, check it.

 

might be a hydraulic clutch, but i thought it was cable. seems to me the higher end GT's and such got hydraulic and the lower end stuff still had cable around 96-98 but i'm not sure when it all changed, etc.

 

if it is hydraulic then yeah replace the slave and master cylinders, they fail often. they are a pain to bleed. no amount of bleeding of following suggestions worked, i just let it sit overnight and it finally was bled.

 

as for clutch. there are multiple parts and sometimes folks don't replace them all. a thorough clutch job includes:

 

throw out bearing, throw out bearing clips, and pilot bearing. i've seen clips break, be missing, or rust and bearings can obviously age. i'd check to see if these parts were replaced and the pressure plate as well.

 

big difference between replacing a clutch and a complete clutch job.

 

at least your trans doesn't sound hosed but annoying nonetheless.

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The shop called back and said the clutch was toasted. And they quoted me $1620 - 1680 and changed everything: clutch, flywheel, bearings, etc.

 

I just ordered this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150047859039&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

and this http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Subaru/Impreza/Sachs/Flywheel/1998/Outback/4_Cyl_2-dot-2L/S2NFW6605.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain

 

Are they any good?

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Yeah - that's bordering on criminal. $250 for a clutch kit and about 4 to 6 hours labor. I do those all the time for $500 - and yes I'm replacing everything including the seperator plate and rear main if needed.

 

Maybe a bit more if the clutch MC or slave or hose needs replaced.... typically not a problem but in your case it's hard to tell. Still they are ~$1000 out of line - that's freakin orbital pricing. I wonder if they just don't want the job because they aren't familair with Subaru's and are hoping you take it somewhere else.

 

GD

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Don't know if it's just AK or not for that price... but that shop is Subaru specialist.

 

Anyways, I am lining up with a guy I found on CL who can give me a cheaper rate.

 

I am just wondering if anyone think the flywheel & the clutch I ordered from previous post is bad (brand/ reliability wise).

 

Also, from the report, the shop said the clutch fork MAY be damaged, should I replace it as well?

 

Thank you very much guys!

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Excedy clutches are good.

 

What makes you think you need a new flywheel? You should get it resurfaced (you can sometimes get away without doing it, but it's cheap so you may as well) but I can't see why you'd need a new one.

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I wouldn't replace the flywheel - just have it surfaced ($40 or so typically). Exedy is typically a good clutch set but I always prefer dealer clutch parts due to many problems with aftermarkets of all brands - wrong parts, poor quality, fitment issues, etc, etc. I play it safe and hit the dealer parts counter if at all possible. Sometimes it's not due to financial concerns....

 

GD

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