'98 2.5. I'm getting a lot of misfires(CEL flashed regularly) when the engine warms up. I also get a clacking kind of noise from the engine as of late.

 

I can't find anything wrong with the ignition or fuel systems to indicate the cause of the misfires. Is it likely that I am in desperate need of a valve adjustment on this?

It's certainly possible I would imagine, especially if it's well beyond 105,000 miles. It depends how much if any the valves receded into the seats and if the stems wore and so on. I believe that engine has the solid shim style lifters, which are kind of a pita to work on at least with the engine in place. Plugs and wires are common misfire causes too. Have you read the code(s) to see which cylinder(s) are misfiring? They should be P0301 to P0304.

miles?

plugs and wires ever been changed?

what cylinder(s) are misfiring?

 

is the noise piston slap?

205k miles, plugs and wires are fairly new, as is the coil. I get misfires on all 4 cylinders(according to the codes). It has become more pronounced in the last week, as I can actually feel at least one cylinder not firing on occasion while accelerating. And as the RPMs increase, the cylinder starts to fire.

 

I don't think it is piston slap, though I'm not real familar with the piston slap noise.

If the valves have never been adjusted.....

 

probably burned exhaust valves at this point. Run a compression test to see. That's their bahavior at first - misfires at lower RPM and then the cylinder will start to fire as you accelerate. The last one I bought had 169k on it and the #4 cylinder had 60 psi due to a burned valve. No shim clearance will hang them open.

 

GD

If the valves have never been adjusted.....

 

probably burned exhaust valves at this point. Run a compression test to see. That's their bahavior at first - misfires at lower RPM and then the cylinder will start to fire as you accelerate. The last one I bought had 169k on it and the #4 cylinder had 60 psi due to a burned valve. No shim clearance will hang them open.

 

GD

 

Id have to fully agree with GD on this one. I am starting to get some stock on heads around here that have had a valve job if you need a set let me know.

I have both a 98 and 99 OBWs with phase 1, 2.5 motors. This is the first time that I have ever read about valve adjustment. Is this suppose to be done per some millage schedule? How are the valves adjusted?

Funny... the Subaru dealer said they almost never adjust valves on these cars.

 

Id have to fully agree with GD on this one. I am starting to get some stock on heads around here that have had a valve job if you need a set let me know.

 

What would that run me? And I assume my heads as core?

 

I have both a 98 and 99 OBWs with phase 1, 2.5 motors. This is the first time that I have ever read about valve adjustment. Is this suppose to be done per some millage schedule? How are the valves adjusted?

 

They use a shim & bucket for this particular setup.

 

Anyways, i think I know what I'm doing next week over spring break: pulling the engine! And no, I didn't adjust the valves when i replaced the head gasket last time, because I was pressed for time.

Edited March 14, 201115 yr by Speedwagon

I have both a 98 and 99 OBWs with phase 1, 2.5 motors. This is the first time that I have ever read about valve adjustment. Is this suppose to be done per some millage schedule? How are the valves adjusted?

 

You might want to read your owners manual . It's required every 105k - same as the timing belt.

 

GD

Funny... the Subaru dealer said they almost never adjust valves on these cars.

 

Doesn't make any sense to me - and I bet if you talked with the actual mechanics they would tell you a different story. I've seen a couple burnt exhaust valves now and the $1000+ repair bill that it comes with (when I do them for people) is not a happy day for them. It's pretty simple logic - valves wear on the seat and face - that makes them tight. They only have to wear .010" to close the gap and then they hang open - they burn shortly after and the engine runs like crap.

 

Complete rebuild on the EJ25D heads runs me about $425 to $500 depending on what all they need. Not cheap to work on. I do have a machine shop that does so many EJ25D's that he will completely rebuild one for $1295 though. Not a bad deal considering the price of a used one is typically $900+.

 

GD

Edited March 15, 201115 yr by GeneralDisorder

Well, I have my answers. Pulled the engine today to check the valves and mess with the clutch. What I found, was valves that weren't super tight(but tight on a few no less), a timing belt tensioner that was screwed, and a timing belt that has jumped teeth and is somewhat chewed up. I can at least explain why it was running so poorly now when it got hot. The only plus here, is that the timing belt was getting close to the next service interval anyways, as the car has 206k on it now.

If you need shims or other parts let me know.

If you need shims or other parts let me know.

 

Well shucks! I just ordered shims earlier today from Heuberger Subaru. I'll keep it in mind for next time though! Ordered my timing belt kit from ebay.

No worries. I can often beat Ebay deals but it can be tough.