walczyk Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 (edited) I've just recently split a EJ252 and the bend in the crankshaft is measuring around 0.0017in. The limit in the subaru service manual is 0.0014in, does that mean I should shell out $400 to buy an OEM crankshaft off ebay? Will any 1999+ OEM 79mm stroke EJ25* crankshaft pop right into my block? This little project is getting pricy very quickly :-\. btw has anyone tried putting an oil cooler on an EJ252? I'm planning to install one as soon as the engine isn't in 100 pieces. Thanks again guys edit: I see an OEM crankshaft for $300 on subaruonlineparts, the prices are better here, but still $$ Edited March 26, 2011 by walczyk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 This little project is getting pricy very quickly :-\. that's why most folks don't split the case and why most folks swap in a used 2.2L engine. it's cheaper and easier and quicker and better..... well, maybe not better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisbad Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 that .0003 of an inch isn't really a lot. i mean thats 3 tenths of a thousandths of an inch. in my opinion its probably ok. you know,you could pick up a crankshaft at a junk yard a whole lot cheaper if you're looking to change it. curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 26, 2011 Share Posted March 26, 2011 that's why most folks don't split the case and why most folks swap in a used 2.2L engine. it's cheaper and easier and quicker and better..... well, maybe not better. 2.2 it. Reseal it and drop it in and be good for another 100k. Reseal, timing components, water pump, etc while it's out. Miles ahead in dollars and time, let alone frustration. The 2.2 has been found to be much more durable and longevity is better. HG's on a 2.2 are rare and never seem to have rod knock either. And 2.2's are cheaper than 2.5's. Search here for the swap. You want a 2.2 WITH EGR 95 automatic (they have EGR and standards don't) is preferred because it's non interference and dual port exhaust. If you get 96 or up you'll need it's single port Ypipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walczyk Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 Thanks for the input, but with a new crankshaft I am pretty confident this engine will go for another 300k miles (unless new oem rod bearings are still spotty) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 That's not enough to worry about. Use it. You are very much overthinking your build. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 That small amount I really wouldn't worry about. But if you want to be a stickler, call your local machine shop and ask about getting it straightened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 Thanks for the input, but with a new crankshaft I am pretty confident this engine will go for another 300k miles) Hey, You're saying this EJ has 300K on it? If it does...well, does it? The crank...What you can do, could have done before you fully broke it down: With just the crank and oiled bearings in the block, spin the crank. It should spin free, and continue spinning when you take your hand off it. You may be able to see it binding, or not. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 i wouldn't pay the price for a new one. you could try to get a used one, i scrapped one recently, someone on here probably has one for you if you want to post in the parts wanted forum. that would suck to find out that many of them are out of those limits in the same way. not sure where/how it's out of spec but could a machine shop tweak that? i'd run it with a few thumbs up from folks here that know what they're talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisbad Posted March 27, 2011 Share Posted March 27, 2011 being a machinist with 20 years of experience and a half way decent shade tree mechanic , i'd say run with it. like i said earlier, .0003 really isn't much. yeah , it's out of spec, that's without question. however, i really don't think it's a considerable enough of an amount to require changing it. if you do feel it needs to be swapped out, definately go with a used one. you can easily pick one up for a fraction of the price of a new one. it's certainly up to you though. if you feel it needs to be changed then do it. you're the one that needs to make that decision. but in my opinion , yours is fine. and yes , a machine shop could probably get that bend out of it, but it'd probably be costly. curtis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walczyk Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Hey guys, thanks for all the help. I am going to keep the crankshaft, my father might actually unbend it with a press. We are going to keep the main bearings because the uneven wear of the originals will keep the shaft balanced, also non-standard sized bearings may bind the shaft. What do you guys typically do in this situation? I definitely overthought this build, but its also the first subaru, not to mention first aluminum, engine either of us have ever worked on so its understandable no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 ARe you saying that you are going to reuse the mains? IF you have gone this far, you should put new mains in.. Use the standard mains and you should be fine. There will be no binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 (edited) have you measured the bearing dimensions, compared it to others? i would install new bearings if the engine wasn't previously oil-starved or severely overheated in which case i'd have it oversized or get another block. these engines do not have main bearing failures for no reason, it's caused by cooling or oiling issues. otherwise they outlast all sorts of other things on the car. Edited March 28, 2011 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 I am going to keep the crankshaft, my father might actually unbend it with a press. We are going to keep the main bearings because the uneven wear of the originals will keep the shaft balanced, also non-standard sized bearings may bind the shaft. What do you guys typically do in this situation? Hi, A bent crank can cause the uneven wear you're seeing. Excessive main bearing clearance on a high mileage motor can cause a bent crank. A bad harmonic balancer can too. I've never reused a truely bent crank, as they usually have other problems as well. That is, a crank that actually has binding issues when it's installed in the block with new bearings. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Quite frankly - .0003" is such a small amount that I would be questioning what methods you are using to check the straightness of the shaft. How is it being done? That could easily be testing error...... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quidam Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Quite frankly - .0003" is such a small amount that I would be questioning what methods you are using to check the straightness of the shaft. How is it being done? That could easily be testing error...... GD Hey, Exactly. But even if it is .0003, if he would just install the crank with new bearings and give it a spin, he'd be at a go/no go situation. If it spins freely he could just move on and forget about .0003. If needed, a good used crank can't be "that" expensive. A reman with rod and main bearings can be found for a couple hundred. Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Exactly. But even if it is .0003, if he would just install the crank with new bearings and give it a spin, he'd be at a go/no go situation. If it spins freely he could just move on and forget about .0003. Agreed. That's a good check and should always be performed anyway along with plasti-gauge. If needed, a good used crank can't be "that" expensive. A reman with rod and main bearings can be found for a couple hundred. Yes - or just take the crank to a machine shop and have it ground. 3 tenths will be corrected by the undersizing process. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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