How is it done on 2000-2004 EJ25's? Couldn't find any specifics while searching.

 

What kind of feeler gauges should I buy (if I can't find that set that I haven't ever used but had years ago)?

 

And can someone point me in the right direction on how to physically do it? My FSM is actually missing that page....has the start up to the steps up to removing timing belt....then the next page is missing which would have all the steps to doing it.

You just loosen the locknut, turn the adjuster till you get a slight drag on the feeler gauge (.008" for intake, .010" for exhaust), then relock the nut. Simple and quick.

 

GD

Question.

 

Don't the pistons have to be in a particular location when doing the adjust?

 

O.

Yes the pistons need to be at top dead center for each cylinder. I was not able to tell by any type of marks. I jsut kept rotating till there was slop in the rocker and I was able to jiggle the rocker. I did the valve adjustment at the loosest point in the cycle. The valve clearnace spec are printed on a sticker afixed to the under side of the hood.

 

For many years I thought that we had the dreaded shim and bucket type. I wasn't till I had the valve covers off doing a gasket job that I found out they were the good ol type.

 

BTW this is a good time to do the gaskets. Those spark plug well doughnut gaskets are surely toasted.

You just loosen the locknut, turn the adjuster till you get a slight drag on the feeler gauge (.008" for intake, .010" for exhaust), then relock the nut. Simple and quick.

 

GD

 

that was easy, thanks. little simpler than the EJ25D

 

yep, already had the spark plug gaskets. this is a complete headgasket job.

Lots of people like the "GO/NO GO" gauges but I don't think they are as accurate on this job. As stated, the slight drag place is much better.

 

I do these any time the heads are off and have to be re-torqued if anybody else is wondering how often to do it. Try to maintain them at least every 105K miles which usually is about head gasket time on most I have seen in this age range.

I'm nearly done cleaning off the last cylinder head before I take them to get machined, so I'm nowhere near readjustment, but after putting it all back together, how long should I wait before readjusting? 5k, 10k?

You don't wait - you adjust them as soons as the timing belt is installed. Then they are adjusted ever 105k miles - every timing belt interval.

 

GD

You don't wait - you adjust them as soons as the timing belt is installed.

can't you adjust them without the timing belt installed? when those valves are in the relaxed state?

So are the newer EJ25's the same? Do I have adjustable valves on an 09 Outback? Not shim and bucket? That would be an improvement, although the old never touch em hydraulics were nice.

can't you adjust them without the timing belt installed? when those valves are in the relaxed state?

 

Yes you could but why not roll the engine over and do it the "right" way?

 

So are the newer EJ25's the same? Do I have adjustable valves on an 09 Outback? Not shim and bucket? That would be an improvement, although the old never touch em hydraulics were nice.

 

Yes yours are adjustable and not shim+bucket.

Yes you could but why not roll the engine over and do it the "right" way

that was the question, what makes it right?

 

i only ask because the engine is already apart and i'll see this more later. most of the time the engine isn't apart already, is that why it's usually done with the belt on?

that was the question, what makes it right?

 

i only ask because the engine is already apart and i'll see this more later. most of the time the engine isn't apart already, is that why it's usually done with the belt on?

 

Well - I always setup all the valves before I install the heads. To each their own I guess but that's my habit from doing the bucket/shim heads. It's much easier to install a cam sprocket and bolt and turn the cam till each cam lobe is relaxed and then check your clearances, etc.

 

IMO there's no right or wrong way to do it as long as the adjustment ends up correct. Depending on how far the engine is to be (or is) torn down will dictate how I go about doing the valve adjust.

 

GD

Well - I always setup all the valves before I install the heads. To each their own I guess but that's my habit from doing the bucket/shim heads. It's much easier to install a cam sprocket and bolt and turn the cam till each cam lobe is relaxed and then check your clearances, etc.

 

IMO there's no right or wrong way to do it as long as the adjustment ends up correct. Depending on how far the engine is to be (or is) torn down will dictate how I go about doing the valve adjust.

 

GD

 

I seem to do a lot of 97's and this is the method I'd use. First couple sets of heads I checked again for kicks when they were in the car (just threw the valve covers on without gaskets or old gaskets to make sure no damage or dirt on engine install). They were always o.k. On this year with the shims without whatever the dealer tool is was the only way that made sense to me.

 

Also doing it this way there is no compression so it's very easy to hold the cam sprocket and move it back and forth. Often I'd give it a few revolutions to displace the assembly lube first, I'm kinda generous with the stuff.

This is a great thread, guys. Thanks. I'm about to do a timing job and valve cover/spark plug hole re-seal on a 2004 impreza outback sport. One valve is a little loud and I think it's time to do the valve adjustment. I'm planning on doing it with the timing belt off, engine in car at TDC. Someone stop me if this isn't a good idea. I'll check for piston/valve clearance before fully rotating any cams individually.

it's really easy, tear it up! be sure to get the feeler gauge to go in straight and perpendicular. the angle lends itself to sort of insert it not straight and giving you larger gaps than you want. get it in there by pressing good to get it nice and level with the clearance you're measuring.

right on! thanks.

Done. That was easy! I did it with the old belt on. That way I could easily control the rotation of the cams. Thanks for your advice guys. Just for comparison, how does one go about adjusting the bucket/shim style like on my 1998 legacy outback dohc? This thread is currently my favorite.

go about adjusting the bucket/shim style like on my 1998 legacy outback dohc? This thread is currently my favorite.

don't ask. that's the opposite of the SOHC easyness - a total pain.

10-4. Knocking on wood.

 

On the topic at hand and to compliment this thread, would someone list which engines the adjustment applies to?

10-4. Knocking on wood.

your DOHC will be too tight by now for sure and that can cause burnt exhaust valves, so it should be done. i've seen others mention, seems like a recent thread even, about how to do it.

 

On the topic at hand and to compliment this thread, would someone list which engines the adjustment applies to?

 

Engine:

1999-2004 SOHC EJ25's.

 

Models:

1999 Forester and 1999 Impreza RS

All 2000-2004 EJ25's