2 words. car porn.

So I've been able to get some more work done over the last couple weekends, I got the new rear shock mounts finished and boxed in.

 

 

I also went to the pick and up and got the whole Ebrake set up off a Legacy and mounted that up to the wagon, so I now have a rear ebrake ready for some dirt driften.

 

 

 

 

And then finished putting the rest of the rear brakes together. Its legacy Turbo vented rear rotors and wider calipers, I've had the rotors sittin around for the last 3 years got them form a friend for helping with a disk brake swap, but couldn't find any calipers for a good price. But I got lucky at the pick and pull a few months ago and found some, funny thing is they weren't even on a turbo legacy, it was just a L model first gen legacy and it still had the thinner solid rotors on it, it was odd but I'm happy to have found some for only $30.

 

 

I've also started breaking down one of the EJ25's I have, I have 2, and both were non running but I got one for $20 and the other I traded a steering rack for so hope to be able to put them together to make one good engine. I'll get some pics of the damage up in a bit

 

 

Very progressive. How far have you completed?

sweet jesus, this will be one heck of a car

Good news everybody, I finally finished my crazy front suspension I've been working on.

 

 

All installed with outback brakes

I hate to say this but I don't think the joints you used as an upper ball joint are rated for the side load your planning on putting on them. It looked like you were originally planning on using a lower ball joint from a toyota possibly? That would work much better because it would be a ball being pressed into the socket by the load. The joints you have now are a ball trying to press its way through a ring, and I think it will wear out quickly and pop through if the ring doesn't shear off the shank first.

 

You see upper control arms done exactly the way you have your done pretty often, but they aren't load carrying. The just take the forces of keeping the knuckle upright and alligned, but don't support the weight of the vehicle. With your coil over attached to the upper control arm, that joint now carries the load of the vehicle.

have you test fitted the tire size you want yet?Looks like alot of your uptravel will be killed by the tires binding up in the wheel wells.

 

on my EA81 with 8" of lift and 31's I can only stuff the tires so far into the wheelwells before they bind up.nowhere near the max angle of the CV's.Thats for the rear.the front is limited by the 6" travel ea82 struts...

 

also what EJ car are the front axles for?

Edited February 27, 201214 yr by Uberoo

I hate to say this but I don't think the joints you used as an upper ball joint are rated for the side load your planning on putting on them. It looked like you were originally planning on using a lower ball joint from a toyota possibly? That would work much better because it would be a ball being pressed into the socket by the load. The joints you have now are a ball trying to press its way through a ring, and I think it will wear out quickly and pop through if the ring doesn't shear off the shank first.

 

You see upper control arms done exactly the way you have your done pretty often, but they aren't load carrying. The just take the forces of keeping the knuckle upright and alligned, but don't support the weight of the vehicle. With your coil over attached to the upper control arm, that joint now carries the load of the vehicle.

 

I was planing on using upper ball joints off a toyota because there the load bearing joint on a toyota, but they didn't have enough range of motion to them. so I used the heim joints, there rated to over 28,000 pounds but I dont know if thats side load or not I'll just have to see how they work and try something else if don't.

when can i see a video of this driving down the road?

I was planing on using upper ball joints off a toyota because there the load bearing joint on a toyota, but they didn't have enough range of motion to them. so I used the heim joints, there rated to over 28,000 pounds but I dont know if thats side load or not I'll just have to see how they work and try something else if don't.

 

I get your point wood,,,,,,

The way to take care of the load is to mount them verticaly .That way the cups are being loaded properly...........Those heims are more than capable of getting the job done Otherwise....it WILL work as long as no jumping gets done:drunk:.But I don't think thats possible

Wouldna be to hard to just adda couple of tabs/w gusset to mount it vertically now.I mean you are still building......Just sayin

 

cheers

Edited April 6, 201213 yr by monstaru

Yo I wanna see this Beast!! Sweet Custom Build loving it hope to see you around soon

This thing is SWEET. I've been thinking of someway to do this to my Subaru for YEARS. Doin a good job cant wait to see it.

Think this would work ina loyale sedan?!

Sorry about the lack of updates but I have made some progress, I made one good 2.5 block out of 2 bad ones I had, one was oil staved and had crazy rod knock and the other was over heated and had a snapped timming belt. I used some 2.2 heads I cleaned up on it to make I high compression Frankenstein engine.

 

A few pics of the teardown and assembly.

 

 

The usable parts, new bearings and rings.

 

Short block assembled

 

heads and timing components on.

I also started working on the wiring, I pulled all the stock ecu wiring and all the wiring in the engine bay. I then rewired the parts I need like the lights and horn wiring back through the fire wall, I don't like having it route though the fenders seems too venerable there. I sort of had to reverse engineer a lot of it because I cut some needed wires trying to get all the ecu crap out.

 

Dash apart

 

junk removed

 

Next I need to go though all my EJ wiring harness and get that installed.

I get your point wood,,,,,,

The way to take care of the load is to mount them verticaly .That way the cups are being loaded properly...........Those heims are more than capable of getting the job done Otherwise....it WILL work as long as no jumping gets done:drunk:.But I don't think thats possible

Wouldna be to hard to just adda couple of tabs/w gusset to mount it vertically now.I mean you are still building......Just sayin

 

cheers

 

I thought of doing this as I've seen it done like that on desert race trucks but my worry was loosing a lot of steering angle and getting stuck with a huge turning radius.

I thought of doing this as I've seen it done like that on desert race trucks but my worry was loosing a lot of steering angle and getting stuck with a huge turning radius.

 

Just a suggestion, but you should e able to get about 30*ish out of those heims with misalignment spacers.I would think tire scrub would be the enemy at that point.

cheers

Good read and project. Will stay tuned.

Picked up these yesterday 30/9.50/15's bolt patter is 5x4.5 I'll be using some hub adapters with them.

 

 

Edited April 13, 201213 yr by Ioku

I have those same tires on my wagon. they work great and i only paid a hundred bucks for them.

 

Are those trailer rims.........?

Both pics

doubt it,trailer rims are really narrow.

I don't think the wheels I got are listed as a trailer wheel and they are a common wheel for a lot of Jeep, Toyota and Ford guys to use plus there at least 7 in wide if not 8 in a bit wide for a trailer.

Ah ok wasn't sure thought I'd ask cause I got some trailer wheels debating hard if I should put them On.....Im thinking I'll just wait til I can get some of those

Look at Basset Race wheels or Diamond Racing offers them in a ton of bolt patterns and offsets. was gunna get some for my GT.

My rims are off of an 85 Toyota Hilux

Well, then we know they won't break.

mounted up yet? I want to see some pics of the suspension cycled with the tires on.