paulbellefeuille Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Yeah you've probably seen this question at least once this past month and today is only the 3rd.. I'm doing a brake job on my wife's '96 Impreza..and while trying to get the front left caliper to fit back down over the pads I noticed that it can't get past the new pads to properly reseat. Pads are fine. I had a hard time originally swinging the caliper up due to ..among other things rust.. I sprayed so PB Blaster on the upper pin so that I could get it free and it worked. But as I mentioned before, trying to get the caliper to re-align is not working. It looks as if the upper pin could be bent.. and trying to even get the caliper off of the pin is impossible. I can't heat up the pin as I don't have a torch. So the question is how do I remove the caliper form the upper pin? Thanks in advance for your help.. you guys always come through! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 You're sure it's a pin problem and not just that the piston needs compressed more? You did take it all apart and lube the pin and slide? Or you were trying to just throw on some pads? Without servicing the pad shims, carriers and such? I can't tell for sure from what you've posted. It's been a while since I've done a brake job so I may not be able to help. But being I'm not absolutely clear on what your problem is and others may not be either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbellefeuille Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 I've done brake jobs before on my Legacy and had no trouble. It's not the piston I compressed it with a C-clamp and can swing it up to put in pads. When I swing it back down it doesn't come all the way back down leading me to guess that the upper pin is bent. I can't slide the caliper off of the upper pin either. It's frozen on..I've put PB Blaster on it before giving up for the day. Hopefully that will free it up enough so I can replace the upper pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 I've done brake jobs before on my Legacy and had no trouble. It's not the piston I compressed it with a C-clamp and can swing it up to put in pads. When I swing it back down it doesn't come all the way back down leading me to guess that the upper pin is bent. I can't slide the caliper off of the upper pin either. It's frozen on..I've put PB Blaster on it before giving up for the day. Hopefully that will free it up enough so I can replace the upper pin. Are you double sure that the piston is fully compressed back into the caliper with a c-clamp to allow room for the pads to seat over the rotor? Whenever, I have encountered what you described, it is always the brake pads not compressed enough to slide down and around the rotor. When I compress the piston a little more, all becomes fine. The pin would be most difficult to bend to be the cause of your problem. I use a lot of anti-seize upon reassembly to prevent future galling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbellefeuille Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 I'll try compressing it even further. It seems to be all the way in. It's the edge of the caliper body that is hitting the outside pad..just enough to prevent it from slipping all the way down. When I took the old pads off the inside pad was thinner than the outside one. We just got the car the other day from a wholesaler and knew that the brakes needed work. Thanks for your suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Remove rotor and pads and see if the caliper swings down properly. If not you'll know whether to go after the pin or piston. You really should take it all apart, clean it, and lube it well. Part of a good brake job anyways. ANd you already know it wasn't floating properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 I'll try compressing it even further. It seems to be all the way in.It's the edge of the caliper body that is hitting the outside pad..just enough to prevent it from slipping all the way down. When I took the old pads off the inside pad was thinner than the outside one. We just got the car the other day from a wholesaler and knew that the brakes needed work. Thanks for your suggestions! Any chance that the pads are the wrong ones? It can even be the wrong pads in the right box. I did brakes on my 91 Subie, years back, only to discover that I was sold the wrong pads. No wonder they wouldn't fit. It can, and does happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 What Dave said... If one of your pads was thinner, it means the caliper wasn't moving freely (meaning even if you put new pads you'll have the same issue). Furthermore, if you think it's the pin that is preventing the whole thing from moving, you should not be using that pin at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 i really dont think this is a pad problem - but a pin problem - and no, the pin is not bent - but it is corroded and not allowing the caliper body to move freely. You absolutely MUST get the caliper body off of that pin so you can a) clean and lube it properly, or replace it with new parts that are properly lubed. If you do not do one of the two above you will just be wasting money throwing pads at this car because it will continue to wear just one pad - not to mention the brakes are not functioning at 100%, meaning this is a SAFETY hazard. the caliper MUST be able to move freely back and forth on the pins for proper function of the brakes. Spray the snot out of the offending pin with PB and rotate the caliper back & forth on the pin - once it loosens up, with the caliber rotated up, use a hammer to tap it off of the pin. Inspect the rubber boots - if they are torn they need to be replaced, inspect the pin, if it has pitting from corrosion, it should be replaced. I was able to get replacement parts for my car from Advance Auto for under 20 bucks - new pins and boots. - makes a world of difference in how the car stops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 (edited) ...or, if your calipers are anywhere like the ones in my car, just replace the whole thing. They start at $30 or so at Rockauto (even at advanceauto they don't run for much more after the core refund) Edited December 4, 2011 by jarl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbellefeuille Posted December 4, 2011 Author Share Posted December 4, 2011 i really dont think this is a pad problem - but a pin problem - and no, the pin is not bent - but it is corroded and not allowing the caliper body to move freely. You absolutely MUST get the caliper body off of that pin so you can a) clean and lube it properly, or replace it with new parts that are properly lubed. If you do not do one of the two above you will just be wasting money throwing pads at this car because it will continue to wear just one pad - not to mention the brakes are not functioning at 100%, meaning this is a SAFETY hazard. the caliper MUST be able to move freely back and forth on the pins for proper function of the brakes. Spray the snot out of the offending pin with PB and rotate the caliper back & forth on the pin - once it loosens up, with the caliber rotated up, use a hammer to tap it off of the pin. Inspect the rubber boots - if they are torn they need to be replaced, inspect the pin, if it has pitting from corrosion, it should be replaced. I was able to get replacement parts for my car from Advance Auto for under 20 bucks - new pins and boots. - makes a world of difference in how the car stops. Yes you are correct and thank you for your input. the main issue is getting the caliper OFF of the pin. I'm going out to check on everything since I sprayed the pin again before quitting last night, and will report back. Thanks again to all of you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 soak, twist and pull. there is probably a buildup of rust paste making it hang on the end of the pin. dont be afraid to persuade it with a hammer. the pin itself will unscrew from the caliper bracket. i would suggest removing the caliper and bracket from the knuckle and taking it to a bench if you cannot get it apart as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Ummm why not replace it with a good unit. Even if you get it out and a new slide for it, there's still enough rust in the housing that it will bind back up, sooner then later. Calipers are still a safety item and I would hate to see one lock up or completely fail on someone, especially when you can get a set of loaded calipers for $150 if that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Ummm why not replace it with a good unit. Even if you get it out and a new slide for it, there's still enough rust in the housing that it will bind back up, sooner then later. Calipers are still a safety item and I would hate to see one lock up or completely fail on someone, especially when you can get a set of loaded calipers for $150 if that. I don't remember the exact cost - but it was more like $250 for a pair of front calipers for a 1990 Legacy around 6 months ago - and these were caliper & bracket ONLY - no pads. as far as replacing goes - for me, it all depends on just how bad things really are (and that is usually personal opinion) - the pin usually gets the worst of the corrosion & usually because of damaged rubber boots, if I can get the job done for around 20-25 bucks - and still have things working correctly - then yeah, i am gonna go that route. If the piston & piston boot are in bad shape in the caliper along with all of the other cruddiness - then I will more than likely get new calipers - or at the very least, a complete rebuild kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 if it's really bad like they can get in the rust belt, remove entire bracket/caliper from car if you have to and take it to a shop. they'll use a torch and have it out in a matter of minutes for a few bucks. you'll need new boots obviously but it probalby already does anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbellefeuille Posted December 9, 2011 Author Share Posted December 9, 2011 Well.. here's what I did.. unconventional but it worked and I did it with very little heat, no PB Blaster or anything caustic.. A few weeks ago I started using Evapo-Rust on my 1955 Packard Clipper and found that it worked incredibly well but you had to soak everything in order for the rust to dissolve. Evapo-Rust is actually an enzyme that eats iron oxide better known as rust.. I wrapped the caliper with a rag that I soaked in Evapo-Rust and let it sit for a few days. I also covered the rag with plastic to help keep the stuff from drying out. This morning I went out removed the rag and tapped the caliper with a hammer. I didn't have to wail on it.. Remember now this thing was frozen and I tried beating the crap out of it but to no avail.. After a few taps the caliper slid off of the pin..free as can be! The cost? Well about 50 cents worth of Evapo-rust and few days of patience. The stuff works best at 60 degrees and I put one of those warming lamps with the aluminum shade and a 100 watt light bulb. We've had over night temps below 30 this week and some rain so I could only use the lamp for a few night. I took pictures of the process and will post them later.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Congrats! I always like hearing a happy ending, when a nasty problem is solved. Evapo-rust must be a great product. Where can it be bought?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike104 Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Free shipping to lower 48 states: http://www.evaporust.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarl Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) You can find Evaporust at a lot of local stores. And yes, it's a wonderful product, specally because it's environmentally safe. You can touch it without fears. Just one comment: In their literature they say it's designed to remove any iron molecule not firmly attached to it's substrate (like rust). But this also means the parts will be stripped of ANY protective coating they may have (i.e. this thing strips the coating from zinc plated bolts). Keep an eye on any exposed metal you may find after cleaning it using Evaporust. Edited December 9, 2011 by jarl Typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbellefeuille Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 I bought the Evapo-Rust at Autozone. $19.99 for a gallon. Available in quart size at Autozone too. Now the next issue is getting a new boot for the end of the pin.. Dealers want $29.00 to $32.00 for the complete set of boots and seals for 1 caliper.... "Sorry sir you have to buy the set.." I saw some made by Carlson for $5.00 on-line. Does anyone have experience with Carlson rubber products?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 I believe Carlson (black and white box mostly) is what my local independent parts store got for me 3-4 years ago. I'm thinking 5-8 bucks at the time. I was amazed soo cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbellefeuille Posted December 10, 2011 Author Share Posted December 10, 2011 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 pin boot kit from Advance Auto... $5.79... http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Disc-Brake-Caliper-Guide-Pin-Boot-Kit-USA-Brake_18310285-P_363_R|GRPBRHWAMS_____ pin/bolt kit - also from advance auto - $15.39... http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Disc-Brake-Caliper-Bolt-Pin-USA-Brake_20310120-P_351_R|GRPBRHWAMS_____ a shade over 20 bucks for both...problem solved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbellefeuille Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 Thanks! I went to Advance and picked one up! Yaaaaayy!! Now on to the next wheel..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbellefeuille Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 The right side was WORSE than the left side..lol.. I covered the top of the caliper and the caliper boot with a cloth soaked in Evapo-Rust. I also placed a heat lamp on it for a few days. The heat lamp was used because the stuff works best in 60 degree plus temperatures and night have been down to 20 degrees. After a couple of days, the Evapo-Rust did its job and the caliper slid right off. Thankfully the rear brakes were fine.. just had to clean up the slides and re-lube everything with some of that Permatex Ultra-Disc Brake Caliper Lube.. It works great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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