OMG, I just had the best idea ever! Install a line lock solenoid for each individual brake. If you're in a situation where you're articulating or simply losing traction with certain wheels, you could activate those wheels' line locks to send the power to the other wheels! Manual traction control! Isn't that basically how ABS works, anyway?

 

 

VW's (the real ones not this front engine stuff) had each brake cable go to the handbrake. It was simple enough to add a kit that allowed to engage each emergency brake individually.

 

Yes that is how modern traction control works, but so does lightly applying the brake pedal.

Ah, I like those ideas of just attaching smaller handles to the existing one. Would mean destroying my tiny console, though. Another option would be to steal the mechanisms off of cars that have ebrake pedals. Then I could rig up a couple pedals on the left.

 

As far as the line-lock method, I would go the route where I would prevent pressure from reaching the wheel or wheels with good traction, so when I press the brake pedal, I'm only braking the slipping wheels. Then I could feather the brake, slow the spinning tire just enough so that I send some but not all the power to the wheels with traction.

 

Those foot operated brakes were horrible, and there is not enough room under the dash or braces for the assembly. Ideally you want to keep E/P brake cables as short as possible, as that reduces stretch. You can either destroy your dash or your console. If it was me I would go with the VW set up.

Maybe I'll mount them on the passenger floor, and have a friend ride along with me and be my dedicated traction control operator.

Maybe I'll mount them on the passenger floor, and have a friend ride along with me and be my dedicated traction control operator.

 

The dream of many a passenger, to have their own brake pedal

I added a second ebrake handle in one of my lifted EA82s, and ran each cable independently to each handle. Was VERY effective at redirecting power. And extremely easy. I'll probably do something similar in my brat

Another method would be to have two levers for left and right, and pulling would work the rear brakes, pushing would work the fronts. However I think I would rather have individual control of all 4.

 

Perhaps instead you could have more of a shift lever, where pulling straight back activates both rear brakes equally, but if you pull more to one side or the other, it pulls that brake cable more.

Another brilliant idea: lever under the seat that moves side to side.

 

I wonder if there's enough room to the left of the drivers seat to put another lever. Seem to remember Pontiac Fieros having their parking brake there.

I wonder if there's enough room to the left of the drivers seat to put another lever. Seem to remember Pontiac Fieros having their parking brake there.

 

The Porsche 914 had it in that spot too.

 

(http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-cars-sale/325026-fs-porsche-914-1973-2-0l.html)

The dream of many a passenger, to have their own brake pedal

 

My Wife's Dream too!... She always are "Braking" in the Passenger Seat when we are in the Caotic Traffic of the Big Cities, such like our Capital Twin Cities (Tegucigalpa and Comayagüela) or San Pedro Sula City.

(They have over one Million Population each.)

 

I am still carrying a Triangle-Shaped Solid Rock...

 

... I use a Rock :-p ...

best. parking. brake. ever. im dead serious if your wheels are chalked it aint going anywhere

Well...

 

Since I Already Dismissed the Idea of the Brake Lock, My Project now is to install a Rear e-Brake System.

 

So, I'll Need your advice in order to know:

 

- Which way is the more Reliable / Easy \ inexpensive to

 

- Retrofit / Swap \ Install that Rear e-Brake System.

 

That is for EA82 BumbleBeast Wagon, which Already has Rear Disc Brakes.

 

I Already reviewed this Thread:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63647

 

and Now I am Reading This other Thread:

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128918

 

 

So I'm Almost Sure that it should be the Right Way to do my Project, but any advice will be Greatly appreciated.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited April 27, 201213 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

Also, Who has the Needed Parts for Sale?

 

Kind Regards.

Edited April 27, 201213 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

I Realized that I Must Start a Whole New Thread about Doing a Rear e-Brake Retrofitting, Because the Title of This thread is for another Idea.

 

Kind Regards.

Edited April 27, 201213 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
Because this Thread's Title belongs to another -Dismissed- Idea.

Just an Update:

 

Now my "BumbleBeast" Features an Excellent Rear e-Brake (Parking Brake) System.

 

Forget the Hydraulic thing! ... it Features Cables, Lever and Calipers; to be a Fully Independent Brake System; to be Safer and Street Legal Again.

 

The Parts are Not expensive and Easy to find, plus the Install is Easy for those of us with Mechanical Experience.

 

The Complete Writeup with Step by Step explanations, full of Guiding Pictures, could be Reached,

 

Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134321

 

I Hope this could be Useful.

 

Please, read it Complete to Understand the Why and How of that.

 

Kind Regards.

Excellent write-up! Been looking for something that clearly explains everything. I actually scored the rear disc brackets last weekend, but the discs on the donor car were too rusty to use. So now I just need to find some new discs and Honda calipers.

 

Except I want to rig my e-brakes up to be individually operated for traction control purposes.

Just an Update:

 

Now my "BumbleBeast" Features an Excellent Rear e-Brake (Parking Brake) System.

 

Forget the Hydraulic thing! ... it Features Cables, Lever and Calipers; to be a Fully Independent Brake System; to be Safer and Street Legal Again.

 

The Parts are Not expensive and Easy to find, plus the Install is Easy for those of us with Mechanical Experience.

 

The Complete Writeup with Step by Step explanations, full of Guiding Pictures, could be Reached,

 

Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134321

 

I Hope this could be Useful.

 

Please, read it Complete to Understand the Why and How of that.

 

Kind Regards.

 

 

Nice write-up!

 

3 things. That doesn't look any easier than the Nissan option, except Nissans are far more common than old accords. Just make sure you use 240SX calipers, not 200SX, if you're not running XT6 rotors/backing plates. Also, I used Subaru Legacy handle and cables, no custom cables needed.

 

And, about cable routing. It's not an issue in your car, as it's FWD. But cutting holes, and having the cables drop down through the tunnel will cause clearance issues with the driveshaft.

 

That's how I did it in my Loyale, too, and the driveshaft would rub on the cables under hard accel. The next time I do it, I will run the cable straight back, and through the bulkhead under the back seat.

Nice write-up! ...

 

That's how I did it in my Loyale, too, and the driveshaft would rub on the cables under hard accel. The next time I do it, I will run the cable straight back, and through the bulkhead under the back seat.

 

Thank you! ...

 

and You're Right, my Subaru BumbleBeast is FWD only and I Forgot about the Driveshaft, thanks for Remind it.

 

Kind Regards.

So, in order to give the More accurate info, I already updated my Writeup with the Proper information you given about the Driveshaft on the 4WD models.

 

► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1119550&postcount=5

 

Kind Regards.

How about line lock / stage control / roll control, brake line solenoid valves used in racing, I'm sure they are tough enough for off road use.

 

Use one on each of the 4 brake lines, could be mounted anywhere along the lines, or easy bolt on adapt into existing fittings.

 

Wire it all to a control console, easy traction control. No messing with cables and levers, leave the stock ebrake as is.

 

http://www.jegs.com/c/Line-Lock-Roll-Control-Kits-Components/10159/10002/-1?sendroicid=bbef8492-2d00-41d6-b158-38db0de2603c&sendroiad=1769719539&sendroikwd=Line+Lock&gclid=CKCavaOp-bACFQxshwodNEi_jg

Or is there a thead about brake diff lock on here? And if it works would it be better or cheaper than LSD

If you check this Thread, I Dismissed the Idea of using the Same Hydraulic Lines to have a Parking brake, because of Safety...

 

a Whole independent system with its own Lever, Cables and Calipers is Safer for Many reasons.

 

Kind Regards.

I agree for the reason of safety. .

But my point is, If by leaving the stock ebrake system intact, that the hydraulic idea is still good, but for another application, like traction control when crawling in difficult places.

Like the manual locker valve, then I thought of the solenoid ones, and having each line controled independently.

I think its worth trying, if someone has not already?

... leaving the stock ebrake system intact ...

 

That was the Reason to do an Rear e-Brake Retrofit: I Had to Got Rid of the Front e-Brake system on my Subie.

 

The Solenoids and Controls you Describe is Good Idea to Prevent the Wheels from Spin Free in 4X4 Rude use in hard Conditions, so you can Manually "Transfer" power to the ones that needs it.

 

Look on the Older posts of this same Thread for more information that has been already posted on that subject.

 

Kind Regards.

Thanks,

I'll take this idea over to the off road section.

You're Welcome!

 

I'm Sure that the Off-Roading People will want to do the Rear e-Brake Retrofit that I've done, while Keeping the Front e-Brake; both with independent Levers, side by side, next to each other Without the center console.

 

Kind Regards.