mattocs Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I recently purchaced a 1995 Legacy L (159k, EJ22, auto). I planned on doing the timing belt, water pump, seals, etc. sometime in the next few months. A water pump leak that came about last week has moved those repairs to sometime in the next few weeks. I'm comfortable with setting the belt, installing the water pump, and doing the idlers and etc, but my concern are the cam and crank seals. I was going to purchace this to get the seals out: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K Anyone have a suggestion on a better seal puller? Also, any recomendations on which size gear puller to get to remove the pulley? Is it easy enough to do without a gear puller? And last, any tips on getting the seals in? What about finding a piece of tube or pipe that is the same size as the seals to push them in evenly with? Is there an easier way? I am probably going to go with the timing kit from Mizumo: http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-97-EJ18-EJ22-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-1-8L-2-2-GMB-Water-Pump-Timing-Belt-Kit-/260925954274 It comes with the seals. I know if they are not the brown OEM type to get rid of them and go to the dealer for the good ones. I'm still not set on that kit. I might go with the similar one from the Import Experts, also on eBay. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I have that seal puller and it's about the best $15 I ever spent. It works perfectly on low clearance seals. I use it to pull rear rear main seals too. Aisin water pumps are OE parts for just about every Japanese brand. This kit also comes with the factory style coated metal water pump gasket. http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-97-1-8-2-2L-Subaru-Impreza-Legacy-EJ18-EJ22-Timing-Belt-Kit-AISIN-Water-Pump-/260925109309?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item3cc059343d&vxp=mtr#ht_2976wt_779 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I have that puller. And a tool for the harmonic balancer. I may even have some OEM seals here. If you wanna make the trip PM me. I'm outta here for afew hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 An average sized flat blade screwdriver has always done the job just fine for me. I guess I'm just old school like that. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Agree with GD--flat blade screwdriver has always worked for me. For driving the seals in, a white PVC pipe coupler works well. Just take your seal with you to the hardware store to find the right size. (To keep the seal from going too deep, I took a flat plastic jar lid and hacked a hole in it just big enough to clear the cam shaft, then put it between the seal and the PVC driver. That works on the right side cam IIRC.) And yes, the OEM seals are brown. I was confused--I thought they had been superseded by the black ones, but I just checked with Jason at Mike Scarff and he cleared that up for me! Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Thanks for the info, guys. I didn't see that kit with the Aisin water pump when I was looking. I'll probably end up ordering that one. I'm going to order my own seal puller and gear puller. It'd be about $30 for both, and i'll use them again, so they will be nice to have. I was going to buy the three pack of pullers from Harbor Freight, but I might just order a single 4" or 6" puller that is of decent quality and a real brand for $15 or so. I've used a screw driver and mallet to get sprockets off shafts at work in the past...but I had always had more room to work with. Hrrrm. I didn't think about pushing the seal in to far. Now i'm concerned about that. Maybe i'll take a toothpick or something and try and measure the depth of the old seal before I remove it. Now I need to order my kit and pullers, and wait for a Sunday that my cousin is available to give me a hand and that the weather will cooperate. Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dballs Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Also you shouldn't need a puller for the pulley, they usually come right off. I stick a punch or pry bar or large screwdriver in the access hole for the torque converter bolts to hold it from turning. I think there is a holder for the crank pulley but this always worked. Sold my 96 with 318k on it and had it apart countless times with no issue using this method. If you are doing the cam seals too, break the bolts free but leave them snug before you take the belt off and it will be a lot easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I've never needed a puller. A rubber or plastic mallet helps to get the harmonic balancer started. If your tools don't arrive in time I should be around if you need to borrow to hit the window that you have help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm113 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 I've used this one: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG Also, look into the cam cap o-rings, you might as well replace them while you are in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 If you're gonna do it hit the dealer fo rthe set of 2 thin Orings. The one by the cam sensor, and the one on the back of the pass side head. Perhaos oil pump Oring - and if so some Ultra Grey. I replace accessorybelts at the same time. I use the kits from the other guys. If that WO gasket is cardboard grab one of those at the dealer too. I don't know if the Mizu kit has quality seals or not available. But as pointed out break loose cam bolts BEFORE removing timing belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Ok, I may skip the puller. Thanks for the tool loan offer. If I need anything I'll send you a message. I'm going to replace the radiator hoses and oil pump o-ring, too. I need to find a part number for the o-ring. Can I re-use the key on the crankshaft or should I pick one of them up, too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Hrrrm. I didn't think about pushing the seal in to far. Now i'm concerned about that. Maybe i'll take a toothpick or something and try and measure the depth of the old seal before I remove it. Good thinking--even just eyeballing it is wise. I didn't pay any attention when I pulled mine, then I read something on here about pushing it too deep. That's when I came up with the jar top trick. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 The key will be fine. Dealer will have the oil pump O ring, the set of 2 Orings for a 95 for the cams. May want to pick up a WP gasket if your kit's isn't metal/rubber. And like I said ultra grey for oil pump reseal from local parts store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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