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Head gasket not the big problem here


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I don't buy that for a minute. Proper oil weight has everything to do with the climate the engine is operated in. Even says in the manual which oil to use, which is better suited for the climate.

 

10w oil in sub freezing climate will run like molasses, oil pressure spikes in the pump and it all gets bled off through the pressure bypass valve. The bearings and cams starve while the pump runs triple duty. Lifters won't bleed out because they might as well be full of glue.

 

30w oil in a 100+ degree climate has the opposite effect. Easy to move but so thin it cooks and degrades because of the heat. The pump then can't make enough pressure to get oil all the way around the bearing before it drips out.

 

at what preshure do's the oil pump relif valve relive preshure at my buggy engine hitts 110 psi cold startup no spikes no bypassing and drops to 35 psi hot and i ran thiss engine in - 15 in the snow no problem has oil preshure on cranking before even starts mind you not a hydrolic lifter engines

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71 PSI. I've done pressure checks on a few of these and they can make well over 80 psi at 1500 rpm when the oil is cold.

 

Ever watched the hydraulics on a car hauler when it's 20 degrees out? They barely move. When it's 90 degrees they move so fast the cars damn near get thrown off. The pump is making just as much pressure, but the rams don't move because the fluid can't get to them fast enough.

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IMHO, that guy has found a non-problem to turn into a made up problem so he can scare people and sell his wares. Besides, everyone knows that NASIOC members flog their cars like red-headed stepchildren. :rolleyes:

 

In 17 years, I personally have never seen a Subaru cracked pickup tube unless somebody had been in there and beat on it.

 

I must Strenuously disagree with your evaluation of this problem.

 

If you look into it more carefully you will find that there are a LOT of supporting pictures of this problem in action. The usual result is a blown bottom end - very often a rod ends up through the block.

 

I recently did a 105k service to a good friend and fellow USMB member's '06 STi - which he bought brand new and had 92k on it - Mobil-1 synthetic it's entire life. The oil pan had never been off. The pickup was ALREADY cracked. You can see that it was the metal that failed not the brazed joint. He was lucky - his engine never starved for oil because the crack was held more or less closed by the mounting bracket and we caught it before it cracked completely through and fell off. Being that EJ's don't have oil pressure gauges there was no way to tell this was happening. Oil pressure never dropped low enough to turn on the idiot light.

 

Fortunately he had done his homework and had already purchased the Killer-B pickup tube for a preemptive replacement at this major service interval.

 

I can supply pictures if you like. But that's the truth of it. No one "beat" on the pickup tube. The car has been through 58 rally-x's but has been meticulously maintained and never "flogged" any more than it was designed to be. It is, after all, basically a factory rally car.

 

GD

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Yeah, I doubt every car has the problem, but who knows how many have slightly low pressure or are pumping oil with 'aspirated' gas in it from the sump? Or how many wrecked engines just got replaced or went to the junkyard with un-examined cracked pick-up tubes.

 

(I hope mine doesn't have a crack - how do I know?, but if I EVER have an opportunity or need to take the pan off, I'm installing a killer B or similar pick-up)

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the pickup changed on the newer cars has a heavy bell type strainer thiss weighs more and whould definatny vibrate more than the original ones.Anyway today i'm taking apart a 2.5 1 from a 2001 forester blown headgaskets runs very good still no slap or knocks 210000kms whant to use it as experiment to see what berrings look like on a engine thats running fine with no bottom end problems will take detailed picks of the berrings and post them here will see how they look if i can get past the 6 engine jobs in the way first

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i'm just trying to keep the bottom ends from failing the light oil dosent stay at top side of piston that well here its 10-30 for winter and 15-40 or 10-40 for summer the coldest it gets here is -25 and thats very rare and most subarus round here leak like sivs so the thicker the oil the slower the leaks i run 15-40 in all my subaru engines always have no ill efects i dont trust 5-30 in any subaru engine just to light. but hey thats just my opinion with the rate of rod berring failures anything that may help is a good thing

 

I agree.

 

5-30 is too light for any subaru, unless you are in the artic circle.

 

I run 10-40, year round here in Oregon.

 

20-50 when I take trips to the Southwest in the summer.

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the pickup changed on the newer cars has a heavy bell type strainer thiss weighs more and whould definatny vibrate more than the original ones.Anyway today i'm taking apart a 2.5 1 from a 2001 forester blown headgaskets runs very good still no slap or knocks 210000kms whant to use it as experiment to see what berrings look like on a engine thats running fine with no bottom end problems will take detailed picks of the berrings and post them here will see how they look if i can get past the 6 engine jobs in the way first

 

 

I would disagree as the heavier pickup should have a dampening effect on vibration.

 

Adding/subtracting weight is how you move the resonant frequency of a device out of the problem area.

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no but its biger with less support the old one had supports on both sides new ones had one support i had allready determind that the new design ones were not so good so i only run the early pickups from the 2.2 s. Not that subaru enginers dont do a good job but somedays they seem to drop the ball or just save money seems the newer the cars the more engine problems they have

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the one that came in here is a 2009 sti 2.5 with 70000kms on it knocking bad the customer had a tuner on it and some mods exhuast and intake was not abused just started knocking out of nowhere anyone have any experence trying to clean the meatal out of heads on one of theese engines ? i'm woried that will be debrie stuck in the vanos and cam gears

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the one that came in here is a 2009 sti 2.5 with 70000kms on it knocking bad the customer had a tuner on it and some mods exhuast and intake was not abused just started knocking out of nowhere anyone have any experence trying to clean the meatal out of heads on one of theese engines ? i'm woried that will be debrie stuck in the vanos and cam gears

 

Tuner and intake mods IS abuse. :0

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well ya what else do you do with it. I dont modify new cars dosent help them mutch thiss cars probly been of the redline lots god only knows whats been done to it i just get them when there broke gets a full engine rebiuld now with no waranty unless stock configuration

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forester motor update pulled it down to crank fond all rod berrings down to copper where very close to spining this engine had 211000kms on it had a blown headgasket but ran perfectly made a very slight knoking on startup thiss engine whould have died if i had done just headgaskets and sent it out the door. So evry headgasket job that has more than 120000kms on it now includes rod and main berrings. The only warning on theese engines is how mutch or how long it makes nosie on startup any konking or rattleing on startup means needs berrings

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sti update the berrings are worn to copper ruined the crank rods block pistons ect cams are badly worn and heads lots of meatal whent into it. Found no cracked pickup and was no blueing on crank had not been run out of oil or overheated just failed rod berrings. Have one coming today 05 forester same deal rattleing rod berrings low miles just worn out thiss will be the 6 one in row all failed rod berrings i think thiss is just the tip of iceberg i cant get bottom ends biult fast enuff

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fixing bad rod angle so far the best fix is a 2.2 crank in the 2.5 block drops the piston a bitt witch alows for planing of block and heads and lowers the comp and gets rid of the over center rod angle thiss engine will last with very good reliability its a little bitt less power but way stronger and can run low octane gas with no ping the customer dident feel any differance at all other than thiss engine ran alot smoother than the stock one

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dosent matter to mutch as long as it clean and clean out the pcv vent hoses to pcv valve is perty genaric

 

I disagree. Aftermarket PCVs are not as good as Subaru Genuine. This is one of those parts where you want to stick to Subaru parts. It's only about $10-12 from the dealer.

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the pcv is only as good as the vacume the engine makes subaru ones are better of corse but you can use a aftermarket ones to tune idle some alow more vacume than others but as far as a problem i think it whould make no differance in performance i find cleaning the pcv hoses makes more differance than changing the pvc valve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Did a engine on 05 forester other day had to teardown to crank had the # 1 rod berring was bad had been run low on oil and caught just before damage just enuff to wipe the berring but only #1 the rest where fine anway when they are run low it hurts #1 first anyway thats # 6 in last two months all bad rod berrings

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  • 2 weeks later...

did a 06 outback headgaskets yesterday had only 95000kms on it the gasket were just starting to fail leaking oil on exhaust was a easy fix did not even have to plane heads were still in good condition just poor gaskets the gasket coating was already broken down even at thiss low of milage

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