87 ea82 with leaking hill holder, my dad did the jeszek lazy solution removing the cable and it works but he want to put the clutch return spring and there is a metal piece in the way, it was for the cable.

 

question is to remove or cut that metal piece, is that renforcing the gearbox? has 2 screws and can be removed but my dad wanna cut the top of it, he is not sure

 

another question: is a bypass made to remove the hill holder?? no leaks but sees ugly .

 

thanx

bump

here i have posted step by step instructions labeled in which order you follow them in. Straight from the Haynes Workshop manual. Hope it helps.... It worked for me.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.432595910123986.118905.100001207430874&type=1

You need to switch to another image host besides linking to facebook. Imgur or photobucket will do just fine.

yes , please help me, the image does not load.

You need to switch to another image host besides linking to facebook. Imgur or photobucket will do just fine.

not intirerly true he can just copy the image url from one picture at a time on facebook and clicking thisand pasting the url

... my dad did the jeszek lazy solution removing the cable and it works but he want to put the clutch return spring and there is a metal piece in the way, it was for the cable. ...

 

Lol! ...  ...

 

Yes, it works fine for me.

 

The small piece of Metal can be removed, no problem, see:

 

 

 

Then, you'll need to install the proper Return Spring,

which is available at the Subaru Dealer, and is Cheap:

 

 

 

The Facebook link doesn't work for me neither, I Believe that he must add you as his friend in order to gain access to his private photo album(s)

 

Kind Regards.

Edited October 30, 201510 yr by Loyale 2.7 Turbo

So, Now I want to get Rid of my Hill Holder's Check Valve, the one that was leaky years ago...

 

Then, I simply removed the Cable that comes to it, from the Clutch's Fork and that stopped the Leak, but that valve being there, disconnected, looks Ugly, takes space and doesn't make any sense to keep it if I never use it.

 

So, my Question is:

 

Could I remove the Hill Holder's Check Valve and place a "T" to join the three Brake lines?

 

If that is the proper solution, please confirm if the Measurement of such "T" is 10 mm x 1.0 pitch, with Flared seat. Any information and experiences regarding the Subject, will be very welcome.

 

Kind Regards.

I have contemplated removel of this thing many times. Its simply is low on my priority list so it hasnt happened and I cannot tell you the correct thread sizes. If they are m10x1 flare perhaps something like this will work http://www.brakequipproducts.com/product/brakequip-bq91a-3-way-tube-tee-m10-x-1-10mm-mount-hole

A few years ago I deleted a KH abs module that was causing greif on a GM. From memory I think it had 3/16 lines with some goofy 10mm bubble flare fittings. I didnt even bother messing with any of that. The fittings were cut off 3/8 fittings installed and lines flared. This allowed for an off the shelf tee to be used and eliminated the search for an oddball tee.

Dont know if you have any "shelves" down there so perhapse just ordering the right fitting is easiest.

Thank you for your response.

 

Yes we have many aftermarket car parts' Stores locally, National and International, including NAPA, and certain Especialties' Stores, such like the Gates agents which sells Rubber Hoses, Bands and Brake Parts only; so maybe it won't be too dificult to find a "T" with the correct measurements. 

 

But since my "BumbleBeast" is a daily driver, I don't want to stop it for much time, I will love to be Sure what part exactly will fit there, in order to do this Job fast.

 

 

This one that you found online:

 

 

Seems to be a Perfect Candidate, except for the type of Seats it must have.

 

Somehow it looks like it doesn't have any kind of seats on each opening.

Unless im missing something the "seal" is created by the mating surface compressed against the flared tube inside the fitting. I imagine this part may take inverted or single flare.

 

Edit

Sorry Jez, i get what ur saying.... This site claims the above mentioned part accepts inverted flare

 

http://www.brakeconnect.com/product/3-way-tube-tee-m10-x-1-10mm-mount-hole

Edited April 18, 201510 yr by ihscout54

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Line-Pipe-Brass-T-3-way-Female-Fitting-Connector-Splitter-M-10-x-1-Metric-/261549106336

This looks like a gem as well. Its also conveniently located in Latvia. These are surprisingly hard to find. Hence why I mentioned cutting and flaring.

If you know of an EA81 manual trans vehicle sitting in parts yard near you, you would find the needed "Tee" fitting on the "HH" mounting bracket.

If you know of an EA81 manual trans vehicle sitting in parts yard near you, you would find the needed "Tee" fitting on the "HH" mounting bracket.

No the hill holder is the T in manuals. You would find a proper T on a auto trans vehicle or an 81 or earlier model which did not have HH

 

Or just buy a t fitting with 10mm female flare.

Edited April 19, 201510 yr by Gloyale

No the hill holder is the T in manuals. You would find a proper T on a auto trans vehicle or an 81 or earlier model which did not have HH

Or just buy a t fitting with 10mm female flare.

The ea81s have a tee fitting for the drv rear and pass front. And the hh serves as the tee for the drv front and pass rear. Or something nutty like that. The auto and non hh ea81 cars have a 4 way junction and I kinda think the master cyl is different as the brakes look to be split front and rear.

 

Gloyale can you confirm that the fittings are m10x1 inverted flare? Befor he/we place an order wed like a confirmation.

I know I removed a "T" fitting from both of the '86 BRAT's I parted out.

 

I know that the '82 BRAT had one "T" in it when I removed the "HH", it now has 2 "T" fittings.

 

Back when I was doing this, I considered replacing the Master Cylinder, as the Manuals have a 2-port one,  EA82 Auto's have a 4-port one.

Atleast the '88 GL10 Wagon Auto trans, we had did.

The ea81s have a tee fitting for the drv rear and pass front. And the hh serves as the tee for the drv front and pass rear. Or something nutty like that. The auto and non hh ea81 cars have a 4 way junction and I kinda think the master cyl is different as the brakes look to be split front and rear.

Gloyale can you confirm that the fittings are m10x1 inverted flare? Befor he/we place an order wed like a confirmation.

The four way you speak of is really just 2 T in one block.

 

Still diagonal. Ea and all newer are dual diagonal.

 

You may be correct about ea81 also having t for non-HH circuit. Some of their masters have 2 ports out of that circuit while other have only one then T at block.

Gloyale can you confirm that the fittings are m10x1 inverted flare? Befor he/we place an order wed like a confirmation.

 

 Not GLoyale here, but yes.

 

10M-1 double flare. Not to be confused with any vehicles what have the "Bubble" flare.

 

Double/inverted flare , >>==, bubble flare , <>==

Edit: Or Tom

 

There are no ea81s at the local yard at this time. Im debating if I should order the above pictured part and install it. I really want to get the engine in but this job looks less frustrating with the engine out. My hill holder is not leaking its just unused, plus I recently replaced the master and bled the brakes. Wish I had more free time...

I love my hill holder. One of the best car features ever.

You could find the wreck of an automatic trans car, and swap the engine bay brake lines from that. The autos don't have a hill holder.

 

A lot more effort though.

BTW, how ugly can the holder be? Isn't it hidden beneath your brake booster & master cylinder & steering column? Think how ugly it looks when those items are on the other side of the car...

Does someone already removed the Hill Holder's check valve, successfully?

 

What part exactly was used to substitute it?   

 

I'm (still) looking for a direct bolt-on part, to remove the Valve and place it,

 

Because I can't stop my Subaru for too long, as it is my daily driver.

 

Kind Regards.

Hey I cant see why not just use a T in place of the whole unit.

above is the hill holder in my RX.

You can see above where I ran the line directly into the Hillholder.

Then through the car pictured above.

 

I am going to run a hydro e brake through it and see what happens.

Once that messes up(Which it will) I am going to replace it with a regular T.

Like the one picture above. 7 dollars from o-reilly's.

 

 

Then just grab an aftermarket valve like this. http://www.polyperformance.com/Wilwood-Check-Valve-Flow-Control-Valve?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=WIL-260-3501&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5oy1BRDQh6Wd572hsfkBEiQAfdTPCqx1aAFKnhFIVQ_78AhPQQAn_3Cr-NbQ2b9Jz9SqSBIaAvMT8P8HAQ.

That is overkill but I am sure anything like this would work. already swapped my master for a 1997 Subaru SVX master cylinder also.

Fun stuff though if I delete the hil holder I will definitely be buying the return spring like the one you are using.

 

Thank you for sharing the information and the Photos. I thought about adding an Hydraulic Parking Brake long ago, Here's the Thread with further information:

 

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/125967-hydraulic-rear-e-brake-on-my-bumblebeast/

 

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Hey I cant see why not just use a T in place of the whole unit.
 
... a regular T ... 7 dollars from o-reilly's...

 
 
I need the exact Specs for that "T" or better yet, a part number.

My problem is that I can't stop my "BumbleBeast" for long time, so I will like to have a Direct Replacement in my hands, in order to do the Job in one afternoon, as simply as removing the old Hill Holder's Check Valve, and installing the "T" on its place.

Kind Regards.