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shuddering: warped disc or bad caliper?

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I've made a few posts about this 94 Legacy "project car" that has a few minor issues. I just replaced both front CV axles, which I had hoped would solve it's jiggling and shuddering, which seems to come and go. Well, it makes less noise with the new CV's, no more clicking when turning, yet it still does the shuddering, sometimes more, sometimes less, and I feel it in the steering wheel, and seems to be originating from the front passenger side. I read somewhere that it could be either a warped brake disc or a bad/stuck brake caliper. Wheel did not jiggle at all when I replaced CV axle, so I'm thinking wheel bearings aren't issue (but what do I know?).

 

Help! This is driving me nuts!

Edited by 808Legacy
clarity

warped disc

Lube the caliper while you are in there.

  • Author

so, I ought to replace the disc, right? no way to turn it and fix that, I'm assuming?

 

thanks for your help!

warped disc

Lube the caliper while you are in there.

 

Same thought, warped rotors (prolly what you are calling warped disc). I bought my last rotors from Advance Auto Parts on line. Many discount coupons worth a savings of 20-30% off list price. Makes for great pricing.

Could also be pad deposition on the rotor, or could be crud between rotor and hub, or even crud between wheel and rotor.

  • Author

Thanks for that tip, I'll start there. I guess I need to take the brake apart and inspect everything first. When I replaced CV, pads looked ok, rotor didn't appear too rough (but warped I don't know, probably not a visual thing, right?)

 

Might be limited on source for new one, as it's on Maui. Napa is only parts store on island. There are a couple junk yards I can check out too, but they're about as limited (and everything rusts over here real fast).

Thanks for that tip, I'll start there. I guess I need to take the brake apart and inspect everything first. When I replaced CV, pads looked ok, rotor didn't appear too rough (but warped I don't know, probably not a visual thing, right?)

 

Might be limited on source for new one, as it's on Maui. Napa is only parts store on island. There are a couple junk yards I can check out too, but they're about as limited (and everything rusts over here real fast).

 

Rotors are not an item that you would buy from a wrecking yard. All the ones I have ever seen have been rusted badly, and who knows if they are already warped. I still suggest you look up rotor cost on line with Advance Auto Parts. Napa has good quality parts, just 20% higher then other parts stores IMO.

  • Author

Yes, Napa is a little more, but only choice on the island (I guess I could ask a few mechanics around too). I won't deal with junk yard, then. Ordering one on line isn't really an option either, as shipping to Hawaii is astronomical.

Yes, Napa is a little more, but only choice on the island (I guess I could ask a few mechanics around too). I won't deal with junk yard, then. Ordering one on line isn't really an option either, as shipping to Hawaii is astronomical.

 

 

just for grins & giggles - see what these folks can do for you...good quality parts at very reasonable prices - mainland shipping was darn cheap - doesnt hurt to look...

 

http://www.thepartsbin.com/

  • Author

well, they only ship to continental 48, I'd have to go through some 3rd party shipping service. It gets complicated with getting stuff out here. Good link to have, though, thanks.

Machining is pretty cheap.

My guy charges $12.

YMMV, but not too much.

  • Author

so, if it is warped, it can be machined? I thought that was only for smoothing out the grooves? I'd much rather do that!

Yes,as long as it is still thick enough.

Do both front discs.

Yes,as long as it is still thick enough.

Do both front discs.

 

My thought, is that it is okay to "turn down" a rotor only once, before it gets too thin. The problem with machining down, is that it makes the rotor thinner, which will get it hotter quicker under braking, and more likely to warp again.

My thought, is that it is okay to "turn down" a rotor only once, before it gets too thin. The problem with machining down, is that it makes the rotor thinner, which will get it hotter quicker under braking, and more likely to warp again.

 

Nothing to do w/number of maching operations but rather how much material has been removed.

That is why they have minimium thickness specs.

I see no mention of previous machining.

 

Would not reccomend it,but,I`ve run over machined rotors w/no ill effect.

Nothing to do w/number of maching operations but rather how much material has been removed.

That is why they have minimium thickness specs.

I see no mention of previous machining.

 

Would not reccomend it,but,I`ve run over machined rotors w/no ill effect.

 

 

good point, even the pads wear the rotors down.

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