joshjoshkabosh Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 Ya thanks Ivan that was really helpful, i'm in the middle of replacing those seals i'm glad i got your nugget of info before i went in there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick James Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 I've never handled these parts - but it kinda looks like the oil pressure relief valve may dump oil through there back into the pan. just a guess traced it...the hole does continue into the pan..any oil congregating near the first hole we took pics of would have to slip back into the pan.. Both pics looking up from under the engine...oil pan removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 traced it...the hole does continue into the pan..any oil congregating near the first hole we took pics of would have to slip back into the pan.. Both pics looking up from under the engine...oil pan removed so they just have a channel cast in that half of the block. Interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshjoshkabosh Posted May 27, 2012 Author Share Posted May 27, 2012 So I have my oil pump apart. It was a challenge taking off the sprocket with out a vice. So my oil pump has a lot of slide, like if you pull outward on a skateboard wheel it moves slightly, that kind of play, but all the other clearance's are good. my question is that ok? also on the outside of the pump what type of grease should I use on the inside of the sprocket? should I use wheel bearing grease or just lube it up with some normal oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick James Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Took mine apart also josh and have the same amount of play, appears normal but you need someone other than me verifying..it's my first go at it also. Regarding the need for grease, I didn't use anything since this thing will be bathed in oil for it's life... Getting the sprocket off without the vise must have been a trick...I put my pump in a vise, like ivan suggested, with the "inside" sprocket between two 3/4" scraps of of wood. It was pine, the sprocket ate into it splitting the wood...found some maple laying around, a serious hardwood, and had success. How did you do it? the biggest pain in the rump roast, I found, was keeping the mickey mouse o-ring in place while re-installing the pump...was very reluctant to use any gasket sealer to hold it in place being worried about scraps of sealer later clogging up any ports....98% sure it ended up where it was supposed by slipping a flat blade against it, feeler gauge blade, to keep it in place while turning the bolts...it was still a pain in the rump roast. How does anyone else do it?? a touch of sealer? string trick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 A little bit of oil held the seal in place for me while I installed the pump. I'd drive the oil pump a little bit with a drill or a ratchet to prime it before starting the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshjoshkabosh Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Well I got my engine back together and started it up and the tick was there as loud as ever, I tried putting some ATF in did nothing, then a pint of Seafoam and still nothing, I've tried everything I can now i'm just gonna give up and drive it till the engine explodes. Which from lots of post i've read on here it can drive a while with the tick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Yeah, just mentioned in another thread our loyale went half a year ticking away before I put a new oil pump/seals on it. Didn't want to take any chances re-using the old one, so I just went and picked up a new one for about $60. I've come across conflicting reports on this forum about the way to attack the TOD. It seems the majority of people have their TOD solved with oil pump maintenance. Fewer people have reported that *not* solving their issue and having either a solvent/chemical cleaner do the trick and/or having to do more extensive work (opening up cam cases, servicing lash adjusters etc) Sorry yours isn't working out the easy way.. It'll go for a long, long while ticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 many thanks ivan...a mouthful of good info in case anyone missed it...right after "gone" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 So Ivan (or anyone who knows), where exactly are the 14mm nuts with springs and valves. I am in the process of resealing my EA82, and have not seen them. I have the valve covers back on... do I need to remove the valve covers and cam towers to access these springs? Thanks... Ron W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Rick James here.. (RICK JAMES BYTCH!!!..this humor will be lost on...well, everyone?) ok, so my account got fubbarred when I tried to do some creative triple quote or something, I dunno... lost the account in a strange catch 22 going round in circles being told to update my profile over and over, then to be told someone else is using my email addy... that someone else is me.. whatever.... So Ivan (or anyone who knows), where exactly are the 14mm nuts with springs and valves. I am in the process of resealing my EA82, and have not seen them. I have the valve covers back on... do I need to remove the valve covers and cam towers to access these springs? Thanks... Ron W. here's what I know....the pics below focus on a 14mm bolt that hides a spring, a couple small washers, and a sleeve that the spring slips into. I'm pretty sure it has to do with the oil pressure relief...but it's on the pump assembly. Maybe that spring could become weak...maybe that's the spring Ivan is talking about? I dunno...took the bolt out, the spring out, and blew compressed air into the cylinder not knowing there was anything else...washers blew out or something..at least found one small washer... the sleeve stayed..it slides in and out but rides tight to the side walls of the cylinder...there's an oil port in that cylinder. , Ivan...My dad was a wise rump roast and he begat a wise rump roast...he loved French Canadians though...is that you?? come back and splain some more please I apologize for the comment re: the "period"... those of us desperately wanting to keep up with you could use a few more of those.. Josh...sorry it didn't work out yet.. How did you get that retainer nut off?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshjoshkabosh Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 Well after all this work and effort, I decided to try one last thing, I went to the autoparts store and got a pint of Seafoam after already trying lucas oil and CD2. the Seafoam was almost like water, the complete opposite of the lucas oil which was thick, so i put it in and nothing changes. Now in the next town over theres and expert on old Subaru's and I decide to drive my car over to him and see what he says. As i'm about to pull up, and the engine has probably been running for 20 min. or so, the tick disappears completely. I didn't even bother talking to the guy, it purrs like a kitten now. How long this will last or if its permeant who knows, but for now its running great. Whether it was my seals that I replaced, the seafoam or something else i'm just glad it works. For everyone else I recommend a pint of seafoam first and make sure to drive it around for a while. Getting the sprocket off without the vise must have been a trick...I put my pump in a vise, like ivan suggested, with the "inside" sprocket between two 3/4" scraps of of wood. It was pine, the sprocket ate into it splitting the wood...found some maple laying around, a serious hardwood, and had success. How did you do it? to get the oil pump sproket off I used a metal clamp and just tighten it down and used leverage against the oil pump with the clamp, it slipped off a few times and scratched up my sproket a bit. hopefully it wont mess up my timing belt somehow down the line. I recommend using hard wood of some kind between a clamp or vice, even then its still a challenge. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Well after all this work and effort, I decided to try one last thing, I went to the autoparts store and got a pint of Seafoam after already trying lucas oil and CD2. the Seafoam was almost like water, the complete opposite of the lucas oil which was thick, so i put it in and nothing changes. Now in the next town over theres and expert on old Subaru's and I decide to drive my car over to him and see what he says. As i'm about to pull up, and the engine has probably been running for 20 min. or so, the tick disappears completely. I didn't even bother talking to the guy, it purrs like a kitten now. How long this will last or if its permeant who knows, but for now its running great. Whether it was my seals that I replaced, the seafoam or something else i'm just glad it works. For everyone else I recommend a pint of seafoam first and make sure to drive it around for a while. Great story...never give up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 ok here it is under the valve cover u will see a tube with holes the holdown for thiss tube is the oil pump relive valve has a plunger with a spring that regulates how muth preshure go's to lifters take out that 14 mm retaier bolt stretch the spring about 1/2 to 3/4 longer and reinstall try that has worked for me many times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 ...stretch the spring about 1/2 to 3/4 longer and reinstall try that has worked for me many times ^^^^ I like this, understand it, and can see it working..thnks again Ivan..you could still use a little work on the use of the period..work with me here.. Ron W., Ivan would have said so if my pics had anything to do with his description. (this is a guess) If you're going to take your covers off to find this, please take a pic and post. many thanks RXJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Did you find it ? Hope you got the right spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Did you find it ? Hope you got the right spot. caps and punctuation? who ARE you and what did you do with Ivan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 (edited) Did you find it ? Hope you got the right spot. Keep working with me here, Ivan... Before this talk about springs that regulate oil pressure under the valve covers and 14 mm retainer bolts, I took this pic because I wanted someone to explain that horizontal bar (above the cam shaft). What is it? Is this anywhere close to what you were describing? If not, can you explain where in the pic we should be looking? I'm hoping Ron W. comes back after finding the right spot and with pics. I'm reluctant to remove my covers again after having gotten a really good seal with new rubber and new grommets....I know it sounds dumb and lazy....I'll do it if you can pinpoint what I'm looking for.. Thanks Ivan Edited May 31, 2012 by RXJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 I took this pic because I wanted someone to explain that horizontal bar (above the cam shaft). What is it? to the far right end of that bar you're asking about is a large bolt holding the metal bar in place. remove that bolt and it's actually a banjo bolt with a spring inside of it. that's the spring he's talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 (edited) ah..I'm a dolt...Ivan's description was spot on... the part that confused me (well...) was " you will see a tube with holes". To me, this thing looked like a solid copper rod crimped on both ends..... looked for perforations and couldn't see any...maybe they're on the hidden side. After my last post I slapped myself and said, "why not look at the exploded diagram in the Chiltons book to see what I-man is talking about", assuming they might have one...they do and it verified everything he said(cept the holes...not sure about that yet..are they pin holes to let oil escape?) ... hardly ever look at a manual, relying on the info that gets passed on around here.. it helps though, having a balance... okay..guess I'll do the spring stretching...make sense to me HEy Ron..we're taking covers off...again...maybe :-)) ps..thanks grossgary Edited June 1, 2012 by RXJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 is it still ticking did you stretch the springs thats the right place? its a pain to get to but worth it will also boost the oil preshure to bottom end. Yes cant spell or use putuation worth crap but hey i dont hide it. Not a lot of grammer uesd in fixing subaru moters. Make shure you give your engine some time to run it may take a drive or a while to get all the air out of oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 I use LOTS of improper language while I'm actually working on my cars. when I had young children, on a weekend you might hear my wife; "Kids, better come in now, your daddy's gonna change a starter on the van!" I love me some ivan's posts - I always learn something. I had no idea there would be more than one oil pressure regulator on a motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 I figured that was the tube Ivan was speaking of. I just don't have a good way to get the pics on this board. Good news for me is that I have not put any oil in the motor yet. Just sitting on the stand, waiting for my boy to show up this evening. I make him do all the work... I just supervise. Then stretch the springs, add oil, prime the oil pump, install the new timing belts and tensioners. Hopefully will get the engine back in and hook up the Weber and take it for a drive on Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXJ Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 is it still ticking did you stretch the springs thats the right place? its a pain to get to but worth it will also boost the oil preshure to bottom end. Yes cant spell or use putuation worth crap but hey i dont hide it. Not a lot of grammer uesd in fixing subaru moters. Make shure you give your engine some time to run it may take a drive or a while to get all the air out of oil. ..haven't done this yet, Ivan...am working at a snail's pace...using a motorcycle rain/shine, loving the 50 mpg gas mileage....my suby ticking would disappear on it's own, off and on...I figure there won't be any by the time this engine is put back in. Did all the seals on the pump...BTW, Should I be stretching the spring of the pumps regulator??...makes sense or fuzzy?...that spring actually seemed pretty damn strong when I had it out....the missing parts that blew out when shooting compressed air in? oh well...i think it was actually was one small washer protecting the ends off the spring. FWIW... I ruined a brand new real main crank seal last night trying to install by tapping around the perimeter...went in too deep (way deep)on one side and there was no sucking it out...seconds after ripping it out I found a roll of duct tape that has the same inside diameter required to tap in evenly all around... You're spelling's fine I-man...just keep throwing the occasional "periods" in there...many thanks for the info and help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 its alot easyer to fix them on here than in the shop lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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