IM still goping for a trifecta flex plate rod knock and something to be named later.

 

As I always say, if your going to blow something up go big, and this sounds like it has gone big. It is not truly big through untill the connecting rod tears a little hole in the hood insulation

I had a 66 Ford Cortina GT that drove with a terrible rod knock,

the car drove until it went through the side of the block.

The fact that this car doesn't want to drive puts me on the flex plate.

The oil looks alright from the dip stick. when I get time I'll pull the filter

and dump it out to see whats there.

There's a rubber access plug into the top of the bellhousing kind of under and behind the intake manifold. Pull that out and see if the noise is much louder from inside the bellhousing.

 

I got a free 2.2l once because of a flexplate. I said it was probably the flexplate, owner was sure the engine was done, when the shop pulled it out, the flexplate was cracked. They put the new engine in and I got the old "bad" one.

 

The squeeking/chirping and steady whack whack point more towards a rod bearing being spun though. Sounds exactly like my friends WRX once the rod bearings finally let go.

Thanks again, I won't have time to make a couple more checks for a while.

I'll keep posting.

I had a 66 Ford Cortina GT that drove with a terrible rod knock,

the car drove until it went through the side of the block.

The fact that this car doesn't want to drive puts me on the flex plate.

The oil looks alright from the dip stick. when I get time I'll pull the filter

and dump it out to see whats there.

 

lol a 66 ford is alot different than a subaru 2.5 there is alot more horse power coming out of that 66 so a rod may act differently

Had never heard of a Cortina GT, looked it up on wiki, pretty neat looking car, but only 78 hp.

:-p well now i feel dumb i was thinking of a different car obviously the gt kinda made me think v8. i'm not a ford fanatic i am a chevy guy lol i can tell you just about every engine chevy made but when it comes to ford i really don't know alot.

I bet you were thinking of a Torino Gt, which could have had a 429 under the hood, making somewhere around 375 hp. It's like the difference between a Chevelle and a Chevette!

I had no clue but was thinking big block too until I looked up what a Cortina was lol. Looks like it would be a fun little car to drive around the states, nice attention grabber.

I went out and moved it again.

I'm thinkin rod knock again, that thing is hammerin, pretty sure it's from the

block. It also smokes now when when I gas it. Sounds like a jack hammer

at about 2k. Reminds me of that evening on the freeway with that Cortina.

There's a wrecked 96 w/149k about 30mi away, he's asking 450.

I wish I had the space.

Thanks again for your replies.

Well noise AND smoke is never a good sign, something is really broke good in there. Sorry to hear it isnt easily repairable but sounds like a good swap candidate for someone.

You really don't want to seize the engine. If you keep driving it, it will put a rod through the block and be seized... It just makes it a real pain to get disconnected from the auto if you can't get at least one revolution out of the motor.

I can tell from expeirience that a subaru 2.5 with a rod through the side of the block will not only start but will also continue to move a car (up hill to a safe exit ramp no less).

 

The ringing sound is not a connecting rod. I am going with flexplate or flexplate plus rod, but someone PLEASE put us out of misery and do an autopsy already

 

 

The rod test is so easy someone do it.

 

It depends on how and where the rod broke, and how it went through the block. There's a chance it breaks through an oil gallery, jams the motor up, breaks the crank, etc. Or it could break in such a way it will still run on 3 cylinders for a little while.

 

One way to figure out what it is, drive it at full throttle until it stops driving. Then whatever broke was the problem

I can tell from expeirience that a subaru 2.5 with a rod through the side of the block will not only start but will also continue to move a car (up hill to a safe exit ramp no less).

 

The ringing sound is not a connecting rod. I am going with flexplate or flexplate plus rod, but someone PLEASE put us out of misery and do an autopsy already

 

 

The rod test is so easy someone do it.

 

 

what and how is a rod test?

i mentioned it before. Using a pair of pliers and gloves, remove one plug wire at a time. If it is a bad rod, when you get to the affected cylinder, the noise will change (or go away).

 

This is a very standard diagnostic test.

The ringing sound is not a connecting rod.

There is no ringing sound in the video. The higher pitched noise is a squeek/chirp from the dry bearing on the crank. Once enough bearing is gone, the oil runs out of the bearing and you get bare metal on metal.

 

I can take pictures of what the bearings in this car probably look like, I saved the worst ones out of a WRX that made the exact same noise. It had light rod knock for months before finally spinning the rod bearings, yes plural the engine was done. He drove it 10 miles after the bearings spun before stopping because it was loosing power.

Just cut open the oil filter or drop the pan. You will find the metal and you will know for certain.

 

You can even drop the pan and find the offending rod. You can rotate the engine to a posistion where the rod will "float" and you can feel the play with your fingers. I have done this plenty of times.

 

But I can guarantee it's a rod knock without you doing anything at all. I own a Subaru repair and performance shop and I see this all the time. Just this last week I pulled a rod knocking '05 STi engine, an EJ22 with a rod that snapped in half, and I have an '08 WRX with a rod knock awaiting my cherry picker on Monday. Not to mention a guy I know from a car lot down the street stopped by with an EJ205 WRX that's got a rod knock he wanted me to listen to. That's 4 in one week. :cool:

 

GD

Edited June 10, 201213 yr by GeneralDisorder

Is there a common cause for all these bad rod bearings? Is it normal age and wear, or something else?

 

The question goes to prevention...

 

Thanks

Mark

More frequent oil changes then recomended (every 5K will do and easy math).

If the car ever over heats, change the oil.

Change the PCV valve every 2 years (I do it once a year)

 

That should do it

Is there a common cause for all these bad rod bearings? Is it normal age and wear, or something else?

 

The question goes to prevention...

 

Thanks

Mark

 

WHEN it oveerheats STOP DRIVING IT and do the HEAD GASKETS IMMEDIATELY!!!!

 

Use OEM gaskets.

 

I believe this would stop 80% of rod bearing failures, maybe more.

 

Ignorance is expensive!!

 

Denial is expensive!!

The oil was done less than 500mi ago..

The oil was done less than 500mi ago..

 

Wouldn't really matter. The damage was likely already done long before the oil change took place.

 

GD