It sounds like it's coming between the two, but down lower It for sure sounds bearing like but I could not pinpoint 100% where it was.

 

I got called over because of the CEL P0483 coolant level was a little low but I guess the code was related to that if not I heard it could be the ECT.

Maybe behind belt cover? I think the car has like 95K on it or so.

the car should run (for a while) with the belt off.

 

To me, it does seem like the alt., but, others here have a lot more experience with stuff like that.

 

I suppose you've looked in the PS tank while idling? maybe sucking in air.

Edited March 3, 201313 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

It's only coming from the drivers side of the car.. but I can check with the belt off the next time I stop over.

Use a mechanic's stethescope to listen for the sound. My guess is a bad bearing in the alt, or in one of the pulleys.

well given I had my ear right next to the alt it's not that.. it sounds more like it's near the AC belt tensioner pulley, If it's not that then I think behind the belt cover is a belt cog bearing for the timing belt.

Had exactly the same whine in my 2001 forester. Turned out to be the AC  idler pully, also needed to repair the tensioner mount.

I posted earlier today about my upcoming engine pull. In recent weeks, I've been hearing that same whine, and it was enough to get me off my butt to start thinking about fixing my HG, While it's only leaking oil onto my exhaust and BEFORE it leaks coolant into my crankcase.

 

At first, I thought the whine was alternator, but I when I removed the belt, the whine continued. I did not remove the A/C belt because I didn't want to deal with the tensioner adjustment bolt that's too deep in the bracket for a box wrench, and the space 'tween the fan and tensioner bolt that's too small for a socket. 

 

After reading the post, downbounds reply, (and listening---Brilliant!) to the video, I decided to pull the A/C belt. (I shortened a spare 1/4" drive 12mm socket by about 1/4" , in a vice with a cut-off wheel on a hand grinder and used a 1/4" drive flex-handle. There, that's better!)

 

The loud, action-inducing whine that was similar to the OP's was gone. I pulled the idler and bracket. The bearing was definitely shot. I'll either   replace the whole pulley or maybe just the bearing. 

 

There's  still a slight whine that could be attributable to the timing pulleys, so I'm still aiming for the engine removal. I shouldn't procrastinate. I shouldn't.

 

JW

 

There's  still a slight whine that could be attributable to the timing pulleys, so I'm still aiming for the engine removal.

 

no need to pull the engine for a timing belt job.

 

removing the fans on the rad is enough, but worst case, pulling the rad will give you loys of room. and if you are planning on replacing the water pump, you are going to drain the coolant anyway.

 

but a timing pulley would have to be pretty damn loud to hear it through the timing cover. look for a different noise source.

 

i'm not saying don't do the timing belt. that is always a good idea on a recent used subaru purchase . only if it is a NON-interference engine, 90 - 96 ej22, can you let it slide. it is very rare on a used car purchase to know when the timing belt was done, but it is almost impossible to know if EVERYTHING was done. lots of folks will replace the belt and maybe the water pump, but did they replace all the idlers? that is the question. the idlers are installed at the factory with greased bearings. and some folks expect them to last OVER 200k miles with the little bit of grease that was installed when they were made.

 

do the timing belt and all the moving parts it touches. (except the crank sprocket)

 

look some where else for the noise.

Edited March 10, 201313 yr by johnceggleston

Had exactly the same whine in my 2001 forester. Turned out to be the AC  idler pully, also needed to repair the tensioner mount.

 

 

I went over to his house today finally and yep it's the AC idler pulley Also his timing belt is due (car has 102K now) so might as well do that all at once..

 

This is my first time seeing the idler pulley go out like that.. I still have the original on my 97 outback.

 

 

no need to pull the engine for a timing belt job.

 

removing the fans on the rad is enough, but worst case, pulling the rad will give you loys of room. and if you are planning on replacing the water pump, you are going to drain the coolant anyway.

 

but a timing pulley would have to be pretty damn loud to hear it through the timing cover. look for a different noise source.

 

i'm not saying don't do the timing belt. that is always a good idea on a recent used subaru purchase . only if it is a NON-interference engine, 90 - 96 ej22, can you let it slide. it is very rare on a used car purchase to know when the timing belt was done, but it is almost impossible to know if EVERYTHING was done. lots of folks will replace the belt and maybe the water pump, but did they replace all the idlers? that is the question. the idlers are installed at the factory with greased bearings. and some folks expect them to last OVER 200k miles with the little bit of grease that was installed when they were made.

 

do the timing belt and all the moving parts it touches. (except the crank sprocket)

 

look some where else for the noise.

Thanks, John---

 

I changed the timing belt a couple of years ago (but not the pulleys, etc.) and as you said, I didn't need to pull the engine. 

 

I have a head gasket leaking oil but no coolant as yet. My wife doesn't like the smell of burning oil nearly as much as I do, and it seems reasonable to change the clutch after 130,000 miles, and that's why I'm planning to pull the engine.

 

I posted a little bit ago that the sound identical to the one in the OP's video went away after I replaced the A/C tensioner pulley with a Gates part from NAPA for @ $40.

 

JW

Edited March 11, 201313 yr by quazi