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Ziginox

Fair price for an '86 GL Turbo Coupe?

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So the story goes like this. I'm currently looking for a first car and I've spotted an '86 GL that I like. It has some condition issues, mainly the vinyl on the front seats and the clearcoat on the right side of the vehicle, but it's mechanically sound.

 

The good:

-The suspension is solid and feels right

-The car has generally been taken care of, other than never being parked in a garage.

-The engine sounds great and runs smoothly, no clicks. The engine itself was replaced in 2003 (overheated, blew a head gasket it seems.)

-The transmission was solid, it stayed in gear and such and the clutch engaged properly with no slippage

-The interior is a bit dirty but in generally good condition

-Rust is minimal

 

The bad:

-The power steering pump is going out, but it's something my friend and I can replace

-The gas cynlinders that hold the hatch open are bad

-The paint on the passenger side is rough to say the least

-The tires are worn and will need to be replaced soon.

-It has 190k miles on it

-Windshield has some cracks

-Cruise control doesn't work

 

The pics (the ugly?)

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amo4npdlam5o9rb/MLX5Re5F6a

I test drove it earlier today and I loved it, however I'm not sure how much to offer. Any thoughts, and any comments about it? (I know about the EA82T's cooling problems.)

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What are they asking? Looks like a good buy, most of the ugly is just simple cosmetic stuff. As long as it is mechanically sound and free of cancer, it's a good'n.

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Oops, I forgot to put that in there. The owner is asking $1,700 for it, which seems a bit high to me. Also, the engine has 65k less miles on it than the body and was installed by a shop that specializes in Subarus, so it was done properly.

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$1500 or so mean value. No rust is a bonus, and in a climate where it won't rust is extra bonus. Offer 1500 and make the case that putting (analogy) 100 bucks into a car that i only worht 100 bucks does not make it worht 2000 if it is a 1000 dollar car. I can imagine the asking price has to do with te amount of work on it. Otherwise, a solid running car is worth the price for 1500

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It does have some rust (one of the rear fenders has a tiny bit at the top, the bottom edge of the hatch does as well, some in the wheel wells, didn't look extensively at the bottom.) And it's in a very wet climate with hard winters (Teton Valley in Idaho.) I was considering asking $1200 for it at first. Thoughts?

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1200  is a fair offer. really bout a thousand considering the age. When i mention rust, i am talking about whole sections of the body rusted through, captive nuts ripping out, not a dime or quarter size spot that can be sanded out. I am talking about absurd amounts of road salts here in the misdwest, vs sand in rural areas of the mountains. Salt on the roads where black ice or inches of snow, instead of a dusting now an again in mid 30 degree weather.

 

A car here in wisconsin after 5 years will be far rustier than any 25 year old car in the PNW

 

1200 is a fair offer, go towards 1500 but try to stat below that. I would consider those prices for something with no rust (by midwest standards( but the same car with the same work done to it with miwest rust wold be barely worth 500 bucks

Edited by MilesFox

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Got to agree with MilesFox's last post, especially about the rust.

 

Have cash in hand, start low on the offer, see what they counter with.

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One quick question about cruise control on these models. I know about the dealer and factory systems are different, but I can't see to find a picture of the controls for a dealer-installed system. They would be on the left side of the instrument cluster, correct? Oh, and there was also a disconnected wiring harness at the rear of the engine compartment on the driver's side. Any thoughts on what it might be?

Edited by Ziginox

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Just because they installed a low mileage engine doesn't mean the head gaskets and hoses won't all blow up.  They are all still old parts unless they can prove they resealed everything with the new engine.  I wouldn't go over $500 for that car personally.

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The engine was a complete rebuilt by Soo's Roos, the Subaru shop in Driggs, iD. And, if anyone is curious about the hatch being off an RX, the glas in the original hatch was shattered by a large TV and a hatch was cheaper than replacing just the glass. Strange that the hatch came from an RX though.

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With ea82t, you should have the wherewithall to make major repairs if oyu want to keep the car up economically. Not that it is prone to fail, but don't spend money on something you can do yourself. Preventive maintenance is key, be sure of taking care of the cooling system to avoid trouble, and change the oil often enough. Watch the temp gauge like a hawk, as it is your most important gauge, more so than oil pressure.

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I would try and find which junkyard has the RX the hatch came off and see if they have the rest of the car. Grab the clutch type limited slip rear diff out of it, they are getting hard to find.

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I'm pretty handy myself, plus I have family and friends that are even more gearheaded than I am, so I should be fine with that. I will have to see if I can find out where the RX came from... So, does anyone have pictures of the dealership cruise control buttons? And also, what are the vents in the rear quarter panels for?

Edited by Ziginox

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The dealer cruise should be an add-on stalk on the steering column. The vents on the side of the car let the cabin air move through, behind it is a rubber flap that lets air move one way.

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Miles: do you mean dealer fitted cruise, or the factory cruise?

The factory cruise will have an on/off switch on the left side, with 2 buttons on the steering wheel near the horn pad.

From the pics, this car isn't fitted with the factory system.

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no, the dealer add on will have a crudely mounted stakl where someone would have to make a hole for it. By design, it looks added on. the add on unit has a big daiphragm connectd to some bracketry under the hood, with a lamp pull chain connecting it to the throttle. A factory unit would have a daphragm under the dash connected to the gas pedal

Edited by MilesFox

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Yeah, I was aware of the buttons for the factory system, but I wasn't entirely sure about the dealer system. I was following the topic here, which states that the dealer cruise system would have dash-mounted controls, and I just managed to find a pic of those. They would be where the power mirror control would be. Seems I might end up heading to a pick and pull to see if I can find a cruise system eventually, then.

Found a pic here.

Edited by Ziginox

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Quick question about the power steering pumps, I know the EA81's is different, but the EA82 and EA82T share the same part, correct?

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At $1700, it is priced as if everything works and looks fine, and it has tires in good condition.  To have that stuff fixed in a shop will cost him at least $800.  The windshield is another $400.  New tires is $300, unless you get some for $13 each at U-pull-it and mount them yourself.  Then tires are $62 for a set of four including $5 each for balancing the front tires.  So technically, the car is very nearly totalled as is, where is.  He can get $300 to $400 from a auto recycler.  Cars with 190k are hard to sell.  Offer him $600, and he will be making money on the deal.  He should have kept the car up better and stored it inside.  For that grand failure, he can hardly expect to get top dollar.

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Quick question about the power steering pumps, I know the EA81's is different, but the EA82 and EA82T share the same part, correct?

sedan, wagon, coupe: yes

The xt (vortex) has a different one for clearance

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At $1700, it is priced as if everything works and looks fine, and it has tires in good condition.  To have that stuff fixed in a shop will cost him at least $800.  The windshield is another $400.  New tires is $300, unless you get some for $13 each at U-pull-it and mount them yourself.  Then tires are $62 for a set of four including $5 each for balancing the front tires.  So technically, the car is very nearly totalled as is, where is.  He can get $300 to $400 from a auto recycler.  Cars with 190k are hard to sell.  Offer him $600, and he will be making money on the deal.  He should have kept the car up better and stored it inside.  For that grand failure, he can hardly expect to get top dollar.

A ea81 windshield where they drive to you and put it in is $165 installed with the old gasket and with a new gasket is $185. I got one put in 2 weeks ago so i dont see how a ea82 windshield would cost $400 when there glue in if i remember right.

 

I wouldn't pay more than $800 for it because it needs a body work and painted, tires, and some tlc on the inside too.

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That's not a $1700 car. For $500 I got an ea82t with half the mileage and aside from a transmisson issue, in all around better shape. I personally wouldn't spend more then $5-600 for that car.

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Truthfully it comes down to what you feel comfortable with. I have a 93 loyale 4wd wagon I paid $750 for, thought it was a good deal at first. I've put on new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, fuel injection cleaning service, exhaust from rear axial back, 4 brand new tires rear wheel bearing with new hub. The car runs and drive great new but from buying the car plating it and all the work I've had to do I've spent about $3000 not including the CD player all 4 speaker sub amp and wiring. My car still needs work. I only have 121000 miles from what it says but my odometer is reading fast so its more like 118ish. I'd personally wouldn't go higher then 750 or so. Start there and work your way up to his low. You get it cheaper then what he wants and he won't feel ripped off.

Edited by drake13

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Well, she offered $1400, I offered $1200, and now we're at $1300. I'm wishing I had offered $1000 and met at $1200, but oh well. I think I'm going to go for it, I have friends that could help me do pretty much anything that would need to be done and I have some spare money set aside just for parts, so I think I should be alright.

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