goldtoof Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Ah OK cool thanks for the help I appreciate it a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 No prob... that's what we're here for. We were all beginners once... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 (edited) ....I'm trying to hunt down a list of parts and types right now that are optimum for this car. Any help would be awesome for a tune up and belt change. I can get tools. Right now I'm just looking for parts... Some NAPA part numbers for you, other parts stores should be able to cross reference most of these if you don't like NAPA: Large V Belt - NAPA PremiumXL 25-9447 Small V Belt - ? Long (Drivers Side) Timing Belt - Altrom TB4107 Short (Passenger Side) Timing Belt - Altrom TB4106 Nippon Denso Dist. Cap NAPA EP685 (Needs slight cutout modification on one tab - 2 min. with exacto knife. Best cap though... made in Japan.) Nippon Denso Dist. Rotor NAPA EP324 Thermostat NAPA Superstat 536090 Oil Filter NAPA Gold 1361 Fuel Filter NAPA Gold 3002 (Buy 2 - There's one by the fuel pump and one under the hood) A lot of people here say to go OEM only on the thermostat, but the NAPA Superstat is awesome, the only non-OEM thermostat that I would (and do) personally use. On the distributor parts, your 1987 GL most likely has a "Nippon Denso" distributor, I gave the part numbers for that. If you have a "Hitachi" disty, it uses completely different parts. In any case, rotors and caps are hard to source correctly - it took me 3 tries to get it right with the above part numbers, and I still had to do the Exacto cutout on one of the tabs to make it fit my distributor right. Works PERFECTLY though... and it's a super high quality Japanese disty cap that matches the original in all dimensions (except the tab cutout). Oh... one more thing. EA-82 seems to LOVE 10W40 non-synthetic oil, at least in warm climates. I've used Valvoline and Castrol, but heard from other Subie owners that the brand doesn't matter that much as long as it's mainstream brands and you don't mix them. Heard bad things about Penzoil though... something about high paraffin content... I unfortunately can't remember the particulars. Good use for the search function, I guess. . . Edited July 17, 2014 by BirdMobile 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldtoof Posted July 17, 2014 Author Share Posted July 17, 2014 Thanks man parts in hand...any suggestion on plugs or wires or does it matter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 NGK plugs - BPR6EY-11 Wires - I've heard NGK are good, I bought NAPA Belden set, because that's the only ones they had reasonable lead-time stock on. They seem OK... but I'm sure there are better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 P.S. Be sure to grab a thermostat gasket if you're replacing your thermostat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 I had an exhaust leak when I bought my Loyale two weeks ago. This is what I did. If the exhaust is loud and you cannot see obvious holes, check where the flanges attach to the engine. Are they tight? If tight and you can still hear noises from there when the engine is revved, replace the exhaust manifold gasket. Two gaskets, four bolts 20 min. SIlence. Ahhhhh. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldtoof Posted July 22, 2014 Author Share Posted July 22, 2014 Tune up done but need to replace a couple of gaskets.. Still feeling a loss of power. If its just the engine OK. I'm still not keeping 35 in 3 uphill. Weber coming soon. Also couldn't find second fuel filter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted July 22, 2014 Share Posted July 22, 2014 Tune up done but need to replace a couple of gaskets.. Still feeling a loss of power. If its just the engine OK. I'm still not keeping 35 in 3 uphill. Weber coming soon. Also couldn't find second fuel filter? There should be one fuel filter next to the fuel pump, in front of the fuel tsnk near the center of the car underneath on a "shelf". The other filter is under the hood, drivers side, where the fuel line comes through the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldtoof Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 See I thought so but the filter looks diff so I didn't know. I'm gonna try again. Plus valve cover gaskets. I think I have am exhaust issue I can't get it to stay at 35 even in second gear going up hill. Is it that low on power or is there a problem? I'm going to do the carb soon but low on funds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 (edited) Going up a typicsl hill, I can accelerate to over 55 in 4th gear... so I'm sure there is a problem with your car. Could be a blown out or plugged catalytic converter, or a carburator problem. Could also be a timing belt problem (mine was out by one tooth on the passenger side belt, and it ran HORRIBLY - no power like what you're describing). . . Edited July 23, 2014 by BirdMobile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldtoof Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 Belts all replaced.... So next is manifold then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 See I thought so but the filter looks diff so I didn't know. I'm gonna try again. Plus valve cover gaskets. I think I have am exhaust issue I can't get it to stay at 35 even in second gear going up hill. Is it that low on power or is there a problem? I'm going to do the carb soon but low on funds Sounds like you need to take the top off the carb......remvoe the emulsion tubes and clean them out. Reseal kit for the carb is ~25 bucks........ A properly cleaned and resealed Hitachi will make plenty of power.........all the reports of "more power" from a weber are really just New carb vs. Old clogged one....I personally LOVE the hitachi DCP/DCZ carbs.......they are great used on many Japanese rigs for years.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldtoof Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Just cleaning the carb made a huge difference. Now the exhaust and then seals and I'm all set for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldtoof Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 Just cleaning the carb made a huge difference. Now the exhaust and then seals and I'm all set for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldtoof Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 I need to have my valve cover gaskets replaced. Someone says its got "side covers" one left one right. How much does this cost normally? Still also losing power uphill. I'm gonna throw a scope on it this weekend but anything else I should check. Cleaned the carb. Tune up and belts. Still no power up hill even at 35 in 3rd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherGL10guy Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 have someone rev your engine for you, while you feel for proper exaust dump and you should feel decent ampount of preasure coming out the end of your pipe... if you dont feel good preasure... its the CAT, cut it off.... then check timing with cheap timing lite, anywhere Before tdc shouldnt cause major loss... if good then check compression... if not that then its the carb. check spark, fuel, and air. the EA82 is a gutless motor but shouldnt be that bad. does it seem to run smooth and all four? at idle? does it make bad sounds like ticking or knocking? burn oil? how do your plugs look color-wise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldtoof Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 I literally have two manuals I've been pouring over to learn. I know ....again some of these questions are super noob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldtoof Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Just did a full tune up need the gasket seals replaced but compression is good. Cleaned the carb it idles amazingly smooth once warm. I can smell exhaust inside when driving. Never loses idle...just limps uphill. I had an old el Camino for a minute and the manifold..folded on it making it drag. I didn't know how much it would cost to remove the converter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldtoof Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 I know its gutless... But god damn what's a 4x4 good for if I can't get it into the pass? I want a goer and a doer...with 80s style bells and whistles. Plus an inflatable mattress fits in the back..tent and transfer haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted August 12, 2014 Share Posted August 12, 2014 Check for vacuum leaks around the carb and intake manifold. Your car is 28 years old. Those vacuum lines get hard and brittle. Lots of help out there on utube. I use carb cleaner... yes, it is flammable. Good luck... plenty of time till the snow flies. Did you check your timing belts? And Timing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goldenhands57 Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 The left belt is the one that usually fails..a bit more of a p.i.a. to deal with than the passenger side. Drivers side belt drives the, cam, distributor, and oil pump. If it breaks you have a walk or cell phone call to get resucued. Not to worry.. the EA82 is non interferance..you will not trash the engine in case of belt breakage. One other suggestion when you replace the belts is also buy the "micky mouse" gasket for the oil pump. Remove the pump and install the new gasket. This will prevent air sucking in the oil pump which is one reason the EA82 has a reputation for clattering valvetrains. The gasket is not expensive and it is a breeze to replace when doing belts. Buy a new water pump also..spend the extra for a quality one. If these cars have a weakness under the hood it is no reserve on cooling. Ask anyone in Arizona or such area's (I live in New Mexico). EA82's will die quickly if overheated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted August 14, 2014 Share Posted August 14, 2014 Don't give up on the car... Mine started out gutless just like yours, but I'm VERY happy with its performance these days. The EA82 has a reputation for being "gutless", a "leaker", and a "belt breaker". Mine is none of thise things - a bit of careful, well thought out work on it and it's just plain fun to drive and a go-anywhere vehicle with tons of utility. It doesn't cost much to get these cars in top shape, if you're willing to take the time to learn and put in a bit of wrenching. I wouldn't want any other car at this point, which is why I've been buying up junkers of the same era when I find them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comatosellama Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 I had an exhaust leak when I bought my Loyale two weeks ago. This is what I did. If the exhaust is loud and you cannot see obvious holes, check where the flanges attach to the engine. Are they tight? If tight and you can still hear noises from there when the engine is revved, replace the exhaust manifold gasket. Two gaskets, four bolts 20 min. SIlence. Ahhhhh. Except if the previous owner decided to weld the damn exhaust pipe straight to the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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