Do you guys think I's be able to slap leafs on my brat? I can't quite figure out how to 4/3 link and leafs would definitely be cheaper. I'd throw in a transfer case and some lift blocks and some 36ish tires. Sound doable?

from what ive recently learned, you have to build a sub frame to add on a transfer case

will need a subframe of sorts,

By the time you add enough metal to the frame of the body to handle the load points all relocating, you're probably better off mounting the body onto the chassis of another vehicle like a Hilux or some such.

 

Have a look around into the picture section (is there one? ) at the super lifted Brats with huge wheels. Pretty sure there's mention of Nissan 720 transfer case being used.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/89301-82-brat-solid-axle-build-done/page-19?do=findComment&comment=1248593

 

 

Also if I was going to go through all the trouble of putting a Subaru shell on another frame I would rather build a subframe out of new steel that I knew wasn't going to fail. In the long run it's more trustworthy( at least in my eyes ) and it's still a Subaru

Edited September 12, 201411 yr by sumoco

Do you guys think I's be able to slap leafs on my brat? I can't quite figure out how to 4/3 link and leafs would definitely be cheaper. I'd throw in a transfer case and some lift blocks and some 36ish tires. Sound doable?

 

Anything is possible with enough time and money.  As everyone said, you will pretty much have to build a custom frame under the body to support all the components.  Do you want this to be an offroad capable rig or do you just want it to look cool?

Anything is possible with enough time and money.  As everyone said, you will pretty much have to build a custom frame under the body to support all the components.  Do you want this to be an offroad capable rig or do you just want it to look cool?

Definitely a wheeler. Been thinking about just buying a blazer frame and doing it that way but I'm not too sure yet. Was just wondering if this would be an easy way out from a huge subframe like the main sas brat (red one). My fab skills are coming along, but not there yet.

You can't put leafs in the front without extending some kind of frame forward. A 3 or 5 link in the back would be easy, and there are several ways to do an upper and lower control arm airbag or strut assembly in the front. With way less hassle that a frame transplant. IMO

You can't put leafs in the front without extending some kind of frame forward. A 3 or 5 link in the back would be easy, and there are several ways to do an upper and lower control arm airbag or strut assembly in the front. With way less hassle that a frame transplant. IMO

So maybe a 3 link back with coilovers? And then the normal tcase mod front (ifs)

I have some pictures of my old frame in my build thread,  it is post 7 or 8.  Would not be too hard from there to modify so that you use a sold rear instead of the IRS. Rather than post more pics may be easier to go there.  I did that route first, but now I am going with the full frame swap, that is also covered in the thread.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141024-phoenix-my-82-brat/

 

There are loads of way to doing things, it is just a matter of time money and imagination.  Although there are some physics that need to be kept in check, like pinion angles, squat and anti-squat, lateral stability.  I would recommend reading up in some of the bigger 4WD pages (pirate, 4wdaction, ect)  and checking out their builds, and there are a few suspension calculators out on the net that can help out a lot.  Lotsa luck. -Adam-

This is on a bronco frame.  Can't say that I like it but to each his own.

 

This is on a bronco frame.  Can't say that I like it but to each his own.

 

Eek. Not quite into that look. The dream is to have something to compete with this http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PsrSbVXJjmU/maxresdefault.jpg

The dream is to have something to compete with this http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PsrSbVXJjmU/maxresdefault.jpg

 

You're not gonna come CLOSE to competing with that thing with leafs.

 

But if you look at that thing, it has a truck frame under it.

 

I used the front half of an Isuzu trooper and custom built the back part of the frame for my T-cased XT.

 

on 33's.  still all independant. 

 

Build threadhttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142045-trooparu/?hl=trooparu

You're not gonna come CLOSE to competing with that thing with leafs.

 

But if you look at that thing, it has a truck frame under it.

 

I used the front half of an Isuzu trooper and custom built the back part of the frame for my T-cased XT.

 

on 33's.  still all independant. 

 

Build threadhttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142045-trooparu/?hl=trooparu

Oh yeah, I know that's impossible with leafs, but if I can afford to do all that I'll be able to afford someone to to the links

You're not gonna come CLOSE to competing with that thing with leafs.

 

But if you look at that thing, it has a truck frame under it.

 

I used the front half of an Isuzu trooper and custom built the back part of the frame for my T-cased XT.

 

on 33's.  still all independant. 

 

Build threadhttp://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/142045-trooparu/?hl=trooparu

Also I'm pretty sure the rabbit came with a frame

Edited September 12, 201411 yr by comatosellama

Also I'm pretty sure the rabbit came with a frame

No they did not.

 

Entirely unibody.

 

That frame is from something else.

No they did not.

 

Entirely unibody.

 

That frame is from something else.

I stand corrected. Any pics of the front end of your tcase biuld? Only thing thats confusing me about all this is where to put a front diff for ifs

When you go with the T-case this allows you to move the engine and trans back up to where they would be in relation to the body as in when it is stock.  That is why most recommend a 6 inch plus lift.  This allows for plenty of room under the transmission to mount the diff. On mine I cut the center out of a mustache bar, then removed the bushing ring from the front mount.  I welded the mustache part to the front cross member and the front mount to the transmission cross member.  This put the axles in a flat plane when the truck was sitting neutral on flat ground.

You can see the center of the mustache bar here and barely two of the four bolts for the, now rear, mounts.  One thing that I can say about this method, that I would change if I did it again is that this produced a lot of harmonics with the solid mounts. Especially after the front diff was welded. -Adam-

When you go with the T-case this allows you to move the engine and trans back up to where they would be in relation to the body as in when it is stock.  That is why most recommend a 6 inch plus lift.  This allows for plenty of room under the transmission to mount the diff. On mine I cut the center out of a mustache bar, then removed the bushing ring from the front mount.  I welded the mustache part to the front cross member and the front mount to the transmission cross member.  This put the axles in a flat plane when the truck was sitting neutral on flat ground.

You can see the center of the mustache bar here and barely two of the four bolts for the, now rear, mounts.  One thing that I can say about this method, that I would change if I did it again is that this produced a lot of harmonics with the solid mounts. Especially after the front diff was welded. -Adam-

So you have to make another crossmember for the engine to sit on so you can move the original one down?

And did you have ps for the welded front diff?

Yep, the engine needs a new xmember to sit on, it can be seen in the pick right behind the exhaust, I just used square tube that had reliefs cut in them to angle a section to line up with the motor mounts. Then the two ends of the square stock were welded to the lift blocks on either side.  At one time I had a ton of pictures of my build, however I have spent the last two days looking through computers and hard drives and can not seem to find them anywhere.  If I do I will be sure to post them up.

Nope, stock manual rack, one thing that was good, I got high scores in the push-up event of my PT test.  LoL.  That is another thing that in retro spec I would either go with power steering, a disconnect in the front axle/hub and/or power steering for sure.

Yep, the engine needs a new xmember to sit on, it can be seen in the pick right behind the exhaust, I just used square tube that had reliefs cut in them to angle a section to line up with the motor mounts. Then the two ends of the square stock were welded to the lift blocks on either side.  At one time I had a ton of pictures of my build, however I have spent the last two days looking through computers and hard drives and can not seem to find them anywhere.  If I do I will be sure to post them up.

Nope, stock manual rack, one thing that was good, I got high scores in the push-up event of my PT test.  LoL.  That is another thing that in retro spec I would either go with power steering, a disconnect in the front axle/hub and/or power steering for sure.

Finally it makes sense, before this I was so confused about where stuff went. Until then, atv tires! And even then, atv tires.

Goddamnit I de-railed my own thread

Adam...... HOLY SH*T! That is excellent work. Looks well thought through. Sturdy and looks clean. I won't get into my build on my spare Brat until next summer at the earliest, but I've looked at many different suspension options to increase travel and stability but most of that comes down to the dreaded axle fitment. Love the lifted XT!

  At one time I had a ton of pictures of my build, however I have spent the last two days looking through computers and hard drives and can not seem to find them anywhere.  If I do I will be sure to post them up.

I don't know if this helps but heres some old ones http://www.cardomain.com/ride/437378/1982-subaru-brat/page-3/

You could also build something like this.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2658126/1984-subaru-brat/