https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/4678119575.html
Today I secured this beauty, and am going to pick up on saturday. It sits on a wagoneer frame. Thoughts? Suggestions?
 

Also... anyone wanna buy my old brat?

Cool, But I think I see a bit of rust.

Holy cow...a beast that is! What are the rules on no titles up there?

Holy cow...a beast that is! What are the rules on no titles up there?

I'm in Michigan, and this isn't gonna be seeing the road without a trailer under it!

Cool, But I think I see a bit of rust.

Sandblast and a matte green paint job should help

I'm in Michigan, and this isn't gonna be seeing the road without a trailer under it!

Aka I don't know, but I dont need to.

Actually, you do. USFS regulations (AKA Federal law): All vehicles must be legal and licensed to travel any forest service access road or four wheeling trail. Next... The AMC engine and running gear are widely considered junk in the wheeling community. That's why everyone swaps them out. The tranny and transfer case will be ok, as will the rear diff since they were not manufactured by AMC, but borrowed from GM. The engine is weak by V8 standards and very expensive to mod as well as prone to low oil pressure issues from crank and cam wear. If you choose to use a Chevy drive train (the cheapest, easiest swap) you'll need everything but the rear diff. AMC put their front diff pinion on the opposite side from everyone else. Add to that they used their own bell housing pattern and output shaft spline count. It renders the tranny and t-case useless for any other manufacturer without mods and adapters though there were a handful of useable GM cases. IE: You could still use the t-case, front & Rear diffs. Next, the body... You've got so much rust there that it's going to start falling off the frame in pieces. These bodies were not meant to be mounted to a frame without some well engineered mounts. I would look very carefully around the current mounting points for cracks in the unibody. It's going to cost you more to properly fix that rust that buying another Brat and bastardizing it onto that frame. Your sill plates are shot and I'll bet if you check your A-pillar frames and under bed frames, you'll find they're on their way out too. These are the main structural points of this unibody. Without them, it's flex and tear city.

 

I'm just being a realist here, not bashing. I built Jeeps for years for myself and others and know the pitfalls firsthand. Yeah, IF you get it titled, you can run it as-is. But for how long? Yes, it looks bad rump roast. I like it! IMO though, you bought a money pit based on emotion with no thought to repairs and upkeep and you paid too much. If they got it through their estate, AND it was licensed to the person listed as the deceased, then they have the legal paperwork to sign a release of interest or lost title document for you to license it with. If not, it's a bureaucratic nightmare of paperwork. 20 years? Rings are most likely rusted to the cylinder walls. The crank itself probably has rust spots on the journals and the carb will most likely be a solid block of resin unless it was drained or the gas evaporated before solidifying. Any bearing surface not sufficiently coated in grease or submerged in oil will have rust. My advice: Renegotiate for $400 or walk away if you can, even if you have to take a $100 learning lesson away from it. If you decide to go through with it, feel free to IM me and I'll help where I can.

Actually, you do. USFS regulations (AKA Federal law): All vehicles must be legal and licensed to travel any forest service access road or four wheeling trail. Next... The AMC engine and running gear are widely considered junk in the wheeling community. That's why everyone swaps them out. The tranny and transfer case will be ok, as will the rear diff since they were not manufactured by AMC, but borrowed from GM. The engine is weak by V8 standards and very expensive to mod as well as prone to low oil pressure issues from crank and cam wear. If you choose to use a Chevy drive train (the cheapest, easiest swap) you'll need everything but the rear diff. AMC put their front diff pinion on the opposite side from everyone else. Add to that they used their own bell housing pattern and output shaft spline count. It renders the tranny and t-case useless for any other manufacturer without mods and adapters though there were a handful of useable GM cases. IE: You could still use the t-case, front & Rear diffs. Next, the body... You've got so much rust there that it's going to start falling off the frame in pieces. These bodies were not meant to be mounted to a frame without some well engineered mounts. I would look very carefully around the current mounting points for cracks in the unibody. It's going to cost you more to properly fix that rust that buying another Brat and bastardizing it onto that frame. Your sill plates are shot and I'll bet if you check your A-pillar frames and under bed frames, you'll find they're on their way out too. These are the main structural points of this unibody. Without them, it's flex and tear city.

 

I'm just being a realist here, not bashing. I built Jeeps for years for myself and others and know the pitfalls firsthand. Yeah, IF you get it titled, you can run it as-is. But for how long? Yes, it looks bad rump roast. I like it! IMO though, you bought a money pit based on emotion with no thought to repairs and upkeep and you paid too much. If they got it through their estate, AND it was licensed to the person listed as the deceased, then they have the legal paperwork to sign a release of interest or lost title document for you to license it with. If not, it's a bureaucratic nightmare of paperwork. 20 years? Rings are most likely rusted to the cylinder walls. The crank itself probably has rust spots on the journals and the carb will most likely be a solid block of resin unless it was drained or the gas evaporated before solidifying. Any bearing surface not sufficiently coated in grease or submerged in oil will have rust. My advice: Renegotiate for $400 or walk away if you can, even if you have to take a $100 learning lesson away from it. If you decide to go through with it, feel free to IM me and I'll help where I can.

I paid 500. And I do have another brat to throw on it. I also stick to private property almost exclusively. Also have access many parts for rather cheap, and my uncle lives Jeep, so I've got that too.

Excellent! Like I said, I wasn't bashing, just pointing things out. I hate to see people all googly eyed over something and end up throwing good money after bad. Made that mistake a few times in my younger days. lol Private property you say? That must be nice.  

NICE! whats gonna happen with your old BRAT? 

Edited October 3, 201411 yr by Mechanical_misfit

NICE! whats gonna happen with your old BRAT? 

Wanna buy it..? $800 and it comes with an extra tranny, and a shitton of extra parts, 6 extra rims and already lifted 2 inches. If you're interested let me know, I could probably meet you somewhere in the middle of the state if you want.

Cool, But I think I see a bit of rust.

The rust is apparently contained to the brat, so thats good news.

is it a true four wheel drive or is it the standard spin-whichever-wheel-is-easiest 4x4? 

is it a true four wheel drive or is it the standard spin-whichever-wheel-is-easiest 4x4? 

 

All 4WD is "spin-easiest-tire" standard unless you have an LSD or a locker.

I am aware of that thats what i was asking

I am aware of that thats what i was asking

 

Then you should ask if it has Lockers or an LSD.......

 

Not "is it a true 4wd"  yes it is.  It still could spin one tire at each axle and get stuck.  That is true 4wd.  If you want more you need LSD or Locker.

 

Those 2 things are not the same.

Thanks for correcting me then, my bad.

 

So, does it have LSD or lockers? 

It could but without examining the axles insides no way to know.

Thanks for correcting me then, my bad.

 

So, does it have LSD or lockers? 

It has neither, but it getting welded