i would buy a complete timing kit.  they're only $80 - $120 and include all the pulleys, tensioner, and belt.  can't beat that price for 60,000 mile reliability.

 

i can't tell what's going on by the pics.

 

the bearings in the pulley can seize and the belt then slides over the pulley instead of rolling with it.  this sliding heats up the belt and can leave deposits on the pulleys.  in some ways that doens't look like what's happening here...but who knows, maybe it did and hte belt broke and this is a new belt?  or it's something else.  don't know.

 

clean up the snout with a file, grinder, disc, sand paper, and just bolt another crank pulley in place, no big deal.  i wouldn't bother with the keyway...heck i probably wouldn't bother with the crank pulley until you figure out the belt thing and get it running.  it'll run without the crank pulley and belts in place if you have it hooked up to a good battery or another vehicle. 

Those idler pulleys and belt and water pump were replaced about 50-60 k miles ago.   

 

The build up / discoloration on them  is scrapeable.

 

I will get a new belt and idler pulleys.      I will get a new crank pulley with the new key and clean up the crank as well  as I can.  

 

I will get 2 new cam seals.    

 

And i will get a new oil pump seal for behind the crankshaft gear.  

 

So should i pull the whole oil pump and replace the gasket and the O ring too?     ( i have been watching you tube vids all day  )

the oil pump is easy enough i would do it now. 

1. oil pump seal (crank seal)

2.  tighten backing plate screws (one or more are almost positively loose)

3.  oil pump oring

4. reseal the mating surface with RTV or anaerobic.

 

it's just 6 or so bolts to remove pump, not terribly hard.

Ok I got parts on the way and timing cover and belt off. 

 

I got a new problem  .    HOW do I get that TIMING SPROCKET off the crank shaft?

 

Its on there tight.    I went to advance auto and bought/rented a puller kit,, but it wont work.   The sprocket has 2 holes but they aren't threaded.    The puller with the three grabbing arms are too thick to fit behind the sprocket.

 

I put on wd40 and tried to pull it off by hand, but it wont budge.

 

should I use heat?

 

Possible solution?       I have a tap kit.  I thought maybe if I tap those two holes in front of the sprocket I might be able to put in 2 bolts and pull it off with the kit from adavance auto.

 

In my kit I found that the M7 tap seems to be the best fit.  at least the end starts inside the hole.         

 

I have:  an M7 x 0.75 thread  and a M7 x 1  thread..        (the 1 thread is a coarser thread, the .75 thread is fine)

 

Im at an impass without some help.   so,,,, please help if you know what to do.

You are on the right track.  

I can usually get stuck ones off by putting 2 large straight slot screw drivers behind and using them to apply a little force to move the gear out.  

- DO NOT PUT THE SCREW DRIVER BEHIND THE TRIGGER TEETH

- Go Easy the Crank Seal is right behind the gear.

 

If it moves out and stops, hit it with pb blaster and then use a rubber hammer and move it back in.  Repeat!

I had a stuck crank sprocket on my '94. After I got it off I was surprised just a small amount of rust makes it not want to budge. I kept putting on Kroil and tapping it with a plastic hammer. After a couple days it came off.

1.  is a dead blow hammer ok to tap on it?

 

2.    I can just keep working it by hand and maybe a coiuple screwdrivers behind it,,      BUT   Imdew said I was on the right track... did you mean about tapping the sprocket?  

 

I appreciate the help guys

Use a good penetrating oil (WD-40 is not!)  I like good old fashioned Liquid Wrench.  PB Blaster and Kroil are also well respected.

 

Then "gentle" tapping with your hammer--you're trying to create small vibrations to loosen the grip between the parts.  Use the screwdrivers to put even pressure on the sprocket.

 

Keep repeating--it'll break free eventually.  Good luck!

Use a good penetrating oil (WD-40 is not!)  I like good old fashioned Liquid Wrench.  PB Blaster and Kroil are also well respected.

 

Then "gentle" tapping with your hammer--you're trying to create small vibrations to loosen the grip between the parts.  Use the screwdrivers to put even pressure on the sprocket.

 

Keep repeating--it'll break free eventually.  Good luck!

 

+10 on this.

 

Seafoam has a penetrating oil out now that isnt too bad either - Seafoam Deep Creep.

Im going to tap the sprocket and put bolts in it to pull it.   

 

Anyone ever do this?   

IM  hoping the sprocket isn't some kind of really hard metal and I can get threads in it.

Soo,  i tapped the
crank sprocket with an M7 -1  Tap.      Ill use a crank pully puller from advance
auto parts   to use on the face of
it.  

 

 

 

So  i needed to find
m7 bolts about 3 " long.. Guess what nobody has....?   Correctamundo.... nobody has an M7 bolt
anywhere near that long.

 

so now i need to order it off of Ebay.

 

 

Hm not sure if this helps but it says Home Depot in Parkersburg WV has Everbilt M7-1.0 x 40 mm Zinc-Plated Hex Bolt in stock, not sure if that's long enough though, 3 inches is more like 75mm. They have longer ones but the longest that says in stock for pickup is 40mm....

 

Not sure if you have Ace Hardware or Tractor Supply around there, both of those seem to usually have decent fastener selections...

you dont need to order anything...

 

saturate the shaft with a good quality penetrating oil, and employ the method described above by both Imdew and Olnick - it might take a bit of repeat soaking, tapping, and prying, but it will come off eventually. once the rust bond is broken, it will almost fall off.

thanks for stayin with the topic guys.. 

 

I need no less than 60 mm bolts,,   to use the puller...    so I ordered the m7 bolts.

 

I have not yet gotten pb blaster, I was relying on wd40.   I guess I can stop and get some tomorrow,, I just didn't / don't have much faith that its that much better than wd40..

 

Its frustrating trying to tap on this thing and pry on it,,    I will get it eventually. 

 

I am thinking because my woodruff key was all chewed up that maybe its a little more stuck on there.

There's also the old 'acetone and ATF' penetrating oil, if there's any acetone or nail polish remover laying around, and mix in a bit of any automatic transmission fluid, supposedly it works fairly well.

wd 40 is only good for door hinges and disty caps. not as a penetrant or any real lubricant. its a cleaner, not lube. PB blaster on the other hand is magnetic and pulls itself into spaces.

WD-40 = Water Displacement formula 40 - contrary to popular belief, it is NOT a penetrating oil.

 

PB Blaster, Liquid wrench, Seafoam Deep Creep, and several others are far superior products for penetrating thru rust to help loosen them.

 

1. soak the shaft with a good penetrating oil

2. give the pulley a light tap with a hammer, or the end of a wrench - you dont hit it hard, just a little tap - to create vibrations that will help the penetrating oil get deeper

3. let it sit for a few minutes, maybe give it another squirt of penetrating oil

4. try prying the pulley loose. (do not pry behind the tabs!)

if there is no movement, or only a very tiny amount of movement, repeat steps 1-4 until it does come loose

Edited October 18, 201411 yr by heartless

Follow up with proceedings.

 

1.  I soaked in pb blaster, bought prybars,  tapped my rump roast off.  wasnt comign off.  

2. Tapped the holes in the crank sprocket with a m7 -1 tap, got bolts and used the crows foot of a crank pulling kit i got from advance auto.

3.  With bolts in the holes i started pulling..   it was hard,,  i mean , "just not easy"  i had to turn this puller till the sprocket got all the way off the end of the crankshaft snout.

4.  Just tap it they said,, use a prybar they said,,it'll come right off they said,,,,     NOT SO!  lol  Im just sayin,, no way in hell i would have got that off there without a puller.

5. I cleaned the front of the engine with a cheaper cleaner than the 27 dollars they want  for a gallon of parts cleaner...  smelled like gasoline,,,,,,, surely not though

6. Pulled the cam seals on left and right cleaned em up a lil.

7.  got some 220 cloth type sand paper,,  cleaned up inner sprocket,, tomorrow the crank shaft snout.  

8.  will pull the oil pump tomorrow and fix as necessary.

9.  used a pice of luan floor plywood to guard my condenser.

10.  Take a look at my passenger side interior timing cover BACK.  This should have a circular hole in the middle of it, for the crank seal area.   But alas mine is melted.. I dont know if the engine got so hot at some point,, or if some yum yum decided to use a torch on something in there and melted it. 

 

Thanks for following along guys... I hope all this helps someone else like me. 

I've never seen a shaft that bad and I'm 50+ tbelts.

The melted plastic tells you someone overheated the engine big time.  I'd go for another engine.