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How to rebuild an EA82 Clutch-type LSD?

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Does anyone have instructions or know of a how-to describing the ins and outs of rebuilding an EA82 rear LSD?  I think it's about time to give mine a refresh, but I'm not sure which clutch plates to order and a rebuilding guide would be very helpful.

 

I have already tried searching for Datsun-based guides, but didn't find what I was looking for.

Isn't this info in the FSM somewhere? I'm sure I have read the specs on one of these somewhere. I was tempted to tighten mine up a little and replace the friction. I just left it alone as they are so HTF. I'll follow up if I locate anything.

  • Author

It seems like the EA82 FSM that I can download is only the Engine Section and seems to be missing just about everything else.

I have the complete paper volumes. I'll look it up. It may take a couple days. Just keep pestering me if your desperate :grin:

Just from my notes... I have a full rebuild guide saved somewhere, from a datsun 510 source. I'll post it, if I can find it.

Subaru part#:
485907001 Disk Friction 1.65
485907002 Disk Friction 1.90
485937001 Washer
485937002 Washer
485937003 Washer
485877000 Plate Friction
485897000 Disk Spring
 
Subaru_R160_LSD_Diagram.jpgSubaru_R160_LSD_Parts_list.jpg

Edited by Ibreakstuff

I should add that it is very doubtful you can still get these parts from Subaru anymore. But if you do some homework they can probably be found via Nissan or online. They were scarce back in 2011-2012 when I last looked.

With the right materials you could cut friction plates on a water jet too.

 

 

 
Edit: Found a rebuild guide in the Dime Quarterly (Datsun 510 zine)
DQ Volume 10 Issue 1 - Tech How-To: R160 Differential Rebuild, Part I -- R160 differentials dont often need service or a rebuild, but when they do, where do you go to find that information? In Part I, Derek Garnier shows how to disassemble your R160 and R160 LSD and also reviews the steps necessary to convert to 4.11 gears.
 
DQ Volume 10 Issue 3 - Tech How-To: R160 Differential Rebuild, Part II -- In Part I, we finished with a fully disassembled, cleaned, and painted differential housing along with a fully disassembled and cleaned (and possibly machined) center section. It’s now time to inspect our parts, order bearings and seals, reassemble, and adjust the differential.

Edited by Ibreakstuff

  • Author

This is great information!  Thank you for posting it, I think this may be sticky-worthy.

 

Now I just need to bust my diff open and see how things look.

You can verify that the LSD is good without splitting it apart, just check the static breakaway torque (point at which the discs start slipping). The ghetto way would be to put one rear wheel (in neutral) in the air and put a torque wrench on a lug and see how much torque it takes to spin, should be around 40-45ft/lbs. Just using your arms would probably suffice, if it freely spins then a rebuild/replacement is in order. You could probably even shim the worn plates for added life as long as the dog ears on the plates are not gone.

 

Glad I could help, tho all of the info is out there with a few targeted google searches.

I have the Nissan part#'s also if anyone really wants them, but I have not confirmed that they are 100% interchangeable. Hitachi actually designed the diff so there are probably a few LSD's that use the same internal parts, R160/H165B.. I am told the early datsun LSD has the same parts (listed in 1984 nismo parts catalog), but the H165B has a different carrier and side bearings. There is a new nismo R160 front cLSD also, but I have no idea the dimensions of the internals.

Edited by Ibreakstuff

Also just to add to this, the preload can be altered by changing the disc/plate number/order/thickness.

[(!|!|+|!|!)] <-stock arrangement (right side= friction disc-friction plate-friction disc-friction plate-spring disc-spring plate)
[(!!||+||!!)} <- half preload
[([(!|+|!)])] <- double preload

Using twice as many discs that are half as thick could also change the dynamics.

Edited by Ibreakstuff

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