Anyone used a jeep (cj7) tcase to do the tcase mod? After monster brat fell through due to the rust, I'm hoping to salvage some of it. Everything that isn't frame or engine is bueno and I have 8" c channel from its bumpers (no rust) to use for the lift. Any disadvantage to doing it with the jeep tcase?

Nissan case were used as the spline fits in the trans on a subaru. This should be different for a jeep. Perhaps salvage a nissan yoke to fab a coupler. good luck

I used one from a Nissan Hardbody and found it to be ideal, even took the mounts with the T case. My driveshafts were made at a race shop using a mix of Subaru and Nissan. How that T case stood up to the HP I pumped through it was amazing.

Jeep case is a Married case.  Either an NP205 or an NP 241.   You'd have to fab a mounting system and a driveline.....which it's not made to mount seperately.

 

driveline would be the hard part since it's made to mate directly into the back of the Jeep trans.......not have an external coupler.....but there is lot's of stuff available for jeep swaps so you might find something.

 

Also though.....it's pretty large.......and it a chain drive case which is known for eating gears since it's oiled with ATF???? WTF????

 

I feel that Nissan 720 divorced case or Suzuki Samurai divorced case are the easiest, smallest, best fit for using in a Subaru.  Can't do better without a Bill Hincher Custom toyata to subaru Bellhousing

 

I used one from a Nissan Hardbody and found it to be ideal, even took the mounts with the T case. My driveshafts were made at a race shop using a mix of Subaru and Nissan. How that T case stood up to the HP I pumped through it was amazing.

 

I think you mean a 720......previous model to the hardbody 80-84?5?  Those are the ones with the divorced case Known as a T100 (unrelated to toyota T100 truck)

 

Nissan Hardbodies got a married case, which doesn't come off the 5speed.

It was over a dozen years ago but I thought it said Hardbody.... Here are pics of the donor and gearbox;

 

Donor truck; http://subarubrat.com/PICS/donor.JPG

 

Case off truck; http://subarubrat.com/PICS/tcase2.jpg

 

It was tough as nails, never broke!

If your looking at a CJ7 and it has a stock tcase behind a manual its most likely a married dana 20 or 300. I'm planning on running  one of these when I go straight axle, except a divorced version so I can easily keep the Subaru engine/trans. They are reasonably sized, they have huge amounts of aftermarket support and are both tough cases. You can use most married tcases as divorced or doubled units with some small mods and aftermarket kits. Pirate 4x4 is a great place to get info on this. 

 

The CJ never came stock with a NP205, but if you come across one, it probably gonna be way to big for what your doing. The NP205 is the the strongest you can get for the size and probably the most reliable, but its heavy and after market support is non-exsistant. Its a gear driven unit that comes stock with 1:1.96 ratio and there's just no room for bigger gears. They came in fullsize 3/4 trucks if your looking for one..I'll sell you one for $50. I'm not as familiar with the NP241, but I've seen guys pull them out of TJ Rubicons...they might be the tcases that came in the CJ7 auto's. Every NP case I've seen behind an auto has been chain drive and I've never heard of them eating gears because of the ATF(its what they are designed to run), but the chains stretch and need replacing every 100-200K miles. Its not hard to do and takes a few hours. NP chain drive tcases are generally well regarded and considered reliable.

 

Before you decide what vehicle your case will come out of, decide what you need from it. Things to consider are size, weight, passenger/center/driver drop front yoke, married or divorced case and plans on doubling. Its convenient that the nissan case slides onto the 5mt and its tiny, but you are certainly not limited by that. Mixing and matching power train parts is nothing new and adapting parts isn't hard. Driveline shops and builders can be really helpful for this and its not that expensive. The Nissan case is a center drop unit and if you run a pass or driver drop axle, you can run into bad binding in the driveline. I'm not saying it can't be done, but typically you get a pass drop tcase for a pass drop axle. I have seen center drop tcases used on SAS setups, but it was only with custom center chunk axles. It involves taking the knuckles off a dana 44 front and putting them on a trimmed dana 44 rear. You have to run custom made axle shafts and its $$$ and a big PIA. Center drop cases do work awesome for front IFS though.

 

Josh

It was over a dozen years ago but I thought it said Hardbody.... Here are pics of the donor and gearbox;

 

Donor truck; http://subarubrat.com/PICS/donor.JPG

 

Case off truck; http://subarubrat.com/PICS/tcase2.jpg

 

It was tough as nails, never broke!

 

Yeah that's a 720 and it's t100 divorced case.

 

The "hardbody" is the next model up started in 85....

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datsun_Truck

 

That's the T-case I used in my project........All gears inside......2:1 reduction in low range.

 

The weak link is the oiling.........It's basically like the hand crank Lucas display at the parts counters........So the upper most bearings (input) are dry after sitting......then don't get oiled until you drive for a bit.......So don't just hop in one and hammer on it......you gotta drive around gently for a few hundred yards to get the oil up to the top of the case.

 

There is a vent hole on top you can drip some gear oil down before running if it's been sittin for a while.

Edited December 4, 201411 yr by Gloyale

Another option to look at is a samurai tcase. They are a little smaller vertically than the Datsun/nissan case, which helps with ground clearance because they are clocked to the pass side IIRC, and they also have a ton of aftermarket support. I think they also come stock with a 2:1 low range, but that can be increased to 8:1!!

 

Gloyale, I'm curious, do you know how a Datsun/Nissan T100 would do clocked on its side for a pass. or driver drop front driveline? I've never split one open, but it sounds like you have an understanding of the internals. It might help with the oiling issue and allow the use of standard solid front axles

 

This thread really belongs in the offroad section..

 

Josh

Gloyale, I'm curious, do you know how a Datsun/Nissan T100 would do clocked on its side for a pass. or driver drop front driveline? I've never split one open, but it sounds like you have an understanding of the internals. It might help with the oiling issue and allow the use of standard solid front axles

 

I've seen it used in Nissan Patrol as a second case......clocked to the right side (pass for us but this was a South African rig)......

 

This leaves the Shifter and Speedo cable on top...but both drain and fill plugs on the bottom.......seems like it would work well for oiling maybe would weep out the vent but one could add 90 degree fitting to help there.........Filling with oil would be difficult though......almost have to add a plug or remove it/fill it/install it.

In my hatch in my sig I ran a nissan 720 case clocked sideways I just ran a little more oil in it and I never had a problem.I gained 5" of center ground clearance  by clocking it.For my setup I cut out the sheetmetal under the driver side seat rail and mounted the Tcase so the side had about 1/2" between it and the seat rail.The shifter was shortened and angled upwards to clear the passenger side seat.

 

 

These pics were during construction but you get the idea.

 and finally there is this one that shows the rear driveshaft angle

Edited December 5, 201411 yr by Uberoo