I have a crappy little welder much like this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/mig-flux-welders/90-amp-ac-120-volt-flux-cored-welder-61849.html

 

please don't laugh.

 

 

I use it for odd tasks here and there, but yeah, it's lame. 

 

I'm not the best with it because I've not had much need to use it, but I'm no slouch and I don't see why welding wont be something I'm at least passable at. 

 

Can I use this welder on my car's panels?  Does it have enough rump roast?

 

My car needs new rockers and probably a wheel arch or two, while I'm at it I'm sure I'll pull out the carpeting and find something in there that needs a patch.  

 

Pair that welder with a harbor freight angle grinder, and a bunch of flap wheels/wire wheels/grinding wheels and you'll be set. Weld it up, grind it out.

 

Practice some uniform beads on a similar piece of sheet metal (or somewhere not noticeable) to get your wire speed/voltage dialed into something manageable.

Yes you can that is what there made for, thin metal. Just practice on some scrap to get the settings right. The wire is as important as the welder so go to a good welding shop and tell them what you got and what you want to do. And let the sparks fly my friend.

Two points of note:

 

Flux core wire is not the best choice, but will work if that's all you have.

 

Don't try to run a bead on body panels. Stitch weld alternating places until you get it all filled in.

 

Here's a fairly short thread on the subject that covers most points.

 

https://www.autobody101.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=18847

 

There is a ton of other stuff in the interwebs, including videos.

 

Good luck!

 

Dan

Thanks Dan, I'm about to go away for two months so I will have plenty of time to do me some research, I'll also do the DL first before the GL

@ BEECHBM69

 

Words to live by my friend! ^^^^

Edited March 12, 201511 yr by Crazyeights

 

 

Don't try to run a bead on body panels. Stitch weld alternating places until you get it all filled in.

 

 

 

 

+1  it's easy, i've done it a bunch of times. 

 

reread what he said - don't even try a bead.  it'll be messy, burn right through the metal, and warp a small patch panel due to too much heat in thin metal.  (that should be interpreted as i've done exactly that a few times, not just guessing or saying it might happen).

 

hit a few tack welds/spot welds to hold the panel in place.  get enough for it to be rigid and done.

 

a flange tool can help a lot - it gives you over lap.  helps with heat soak and makes it easier to fit.  there's the hand variety and an air tool variety.

it just creates a step in the metal so you can overlap two pieces flush.  very simple and excellent to have.

 

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/blair-equipment-13229-P6704.aspx?gclid=CM3WooH-osQCFY9m7Aod7nAA5g

+1 I taught myself to weld on a 80A flux core welder years ago, probably the most cost effective purchase I have ever made at HF. Even after buying an ACDC tig setup, I still keep the gasless welder around for quick and dirty jobs.

 

Definitely will cause warping and distortion if you attempt to run beads on something so thin. You can do a thousand spot welds if you have the patience. Or using a big huge piece of copper or alum behind the sheet metal as a heat sink will help tremendously as well.

Flux core welders have their place, if you need something portable or are welding outdoors in the wind... Not much else can beat them. They do leave a dirty fido weld and slag, but the weld should be strong.

 

 

 

What gauge steel is the body of an 84 subaru approximately? 

I'm curious not only for patching material, but also material to practice with.  I won't have video access while offshore but I will have time when I get home to read up. 

Just remember where ever you weld you need to be able to access it afterwards and seal it with something like Fishoil antirust coating to stop it rusting out where the metal has been hot, Not just on the outside where you Fill with Body filler and then prepare and paint that is obvious but inside where if not prepared to make sure no oxygen can get in it will rust again where it has been repaired.

 

That is especially an issue when you have used a Joggler to make an overlapped joint, Yes it is stiffer and less likely to distort but that overlapped section is a moisture and hence rust trap to be considered and treated appropriately.

@coxy

 

How you would deal with this on areas where you can't get to the back side like inside the unibody or rocker panels, etc.