sethicus Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Hey guys today I replaced my old blown struts with 1998 toyota runner front struts into my rear. Now the new struts bottom out on almost every bump. I couldnt get the factory struts here. I read that this is a normal upgrade on thenold loyales. I drive a 1991 loyale. The rear end is also lifted a couple inches witch i read only happens when you use other springs. Im using stock springs i was going to mayne try the accord springs? I cant really do much driving with my car like this. Its a 1991 loyale 4x4. Any info is appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Did you put the bumpstops back in? what length are the 4runner springs standard? Those shocks are designed to handle the heavy end of a much bigger car so it's strange that they're bottoming, but you might have them outside the standard operating range Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LucasP Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 Did you put the rubber isolators back in on the top of the shock? Even with everything tight it clunk like you are bottoming out but its just the metal on metal hitting. I did the swap with my lift block on top and was getting the bottom out clunk almost every time I was hitting a bump. I eventually swapped in outback rear shocks and made new top blocks to account for the different top mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethicus Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 Well on this loyale its got 2 bolts that hold it too the inside of the fender. I installed the rubber bushings like the old ones had. When i jump off the rear bumper you can hear it bang internally. Actually almost any pothole it will bottom out if its more then me in the car. I was maybe going to try some heavier springs now that i already drilled out the old mounts. Kind of crappy. I read that this should fix my problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Are you saying the suspension travels it's full range just by jumping off the bumper? Or is it making a noise when you move it some? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethicus Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 It seems to be travelling the full range when i jump on the rear bumper. It makes a loud knock. I was looking underneath and had a friend do it. And i couldnt see anything else causing the noise. Coming from the strut. Its very loud. You can feel it in the whole vehicle. A jarring feeling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethicus Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 It seems to be travelling the full range when i jump on the rear bumper. It makes a loud knock. I was looking underneath and had a friend do it. And i couldnt see anything else causing the noise. Coming from the strut. Its very loud. You can feel it in the whole vehicle. A jarring feeling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 maybe the stock bolt through the lower bushing is too small? if its got play you may be making a bang everytime the suspension gets force in an oppsite direction. also maybe the top nut too loose. if it hasnt compressed the spring enough it can make noise or bring it out of position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 ... Those shocks are designed to handle the heavy end of a much bigger car so it's strange that they're bottoming... Exactly, it makes no sense, unless the Coil Springs are completely worn out... It seems to be travelling the full range when i jump on the rear bumper... Please allow me to ask this question, despite it might sound foolish: Did you installed the Subaru Coil Springs on the Toyota Shock Absorbers, prior to install them on your Subaru? Because it sounds like the Shock Absorbers were installed Coil less, somehow... Anyhow, I kindly suggest you to install the Front '89 Honda Accord coil Springs, on those toyota Shock Absorbers and report back the Results. Please, review this complete Writeup with Photos and Part Numbers, ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ There are more answers... Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethicus Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 Hey guys. I did install the subaru springs onto the strut. And i redrilled the bottom bolt too a bigger bolt that fit the new strut perfectly.i cranked on the top bolt nice and tight. When you hit a pothole it feels like the car getting smashed. I have to try and find the accord springs. The parts store cant get them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 Alright, it means that your original Subaru coil springs are worn out. You can either find another set of Subaru ones, or try these from Honda: The Part Number for the Honda's Coil Springs, is:~► MOOG CC248 for "Moog" Brand.~► NCP 2775298 for "Napa" Brand. Try sourcing them online ... Kind Regards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethicus Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 Ok i ordered them from napa should be here Wednesday. Expensive part. 130 bucks including freight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivantruckman Posted September 8, 2015 Share Posted September 8, 2015 I did the same mod , The oem springs are not strong enough you need to use the springs that jesek says to use , its a great set up and will lift the back about 2 inches over stock . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethicus Posted September 8, 2015 Author Share Posted September 8, 2015 Im already lifted about 2 inches. With my stock springs. So you had a similar issue with your struts knocking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
musubk Posted September 10, 2015 Share Posted September 10, 2015 Confirm that the strut top bolt is torqued to spec, not just 'feels tight'. With the spring pressure pushing up against the top mount it feels tight to your hand but can still be loose enough for play, which makes it clunk loudly on every small bump. I've made this mistake before, you can't trust your 'feel' for when it's tight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethicus Posted September 10, 2015 Author Share Posted September 10, 2015 I couldnt find an exact torque spec for it. Do you know the spec? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethicus Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 Installed the accord springs today. Everything is good now. But now my car looks like a high heel shoe. Does anyone know of a piece to order to level it out and drop the rear diff? Im going on a 20,000 km road trip next week... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Installed the accord springs today. Everything is good now. But now my car looks like a high heel shoe. Does anyone know of a piece to order to level it out and drop the rear diff? Im going on a 20,000 km road trip next week... I am really glad to know that the Rear suspension is working good with the Honda coil springs and the toyota shock absorbers; however, if you read my writeup, whose web link I posted above, you'll find that I wrote there, that I needed to order a 2" lift kit to level the front; I explained that at the writup, with photos; also I explained there, that you'll need to drop the rear differential to keep the axles on the proper angle. However, I drove my Subaru with the rear lifted only, for a couple of years, and the only ill effect was that the Headlamps were pointing their beam, very close to the car... and the car looked weird with the rear lifted only. So, I kindly suggest you, once again, to read completely that writeup, for further information, and web links that will guide you to even more information and photos. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford'ssubaru's Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Just curious if your hearing the transaxle support bushing that is completely gone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 (edited) as long as the strut has movement then you can remove the lift block and let the strut and spring do the lifting. I dont know if the spring needs cut since I havent done that mod myself, but sometimes they do. you will have to check the write up. also double check the write up to make sure they are talking about 4wd cars, there was some stuff around about the differences for 2wd and 4wd. Edited September 15, 2015 by djellum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Everything is clearly explained in that Writeup, plenty of Photos. The Honda coil springs does Not need any cut. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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