I am looking into getting a cheap fixer upper Subaru,does this one look like a good deal?

[trainergames]

I am looking into getting a cheap fixer upper Subaru due to money.

 

I was going to wait till get my income tax to get one and spend it,based on what i got last year and what has already been pulled out i should get around $1600-$1700 mabye more if i am lucky,but my current car,has a lot of problems including a weird coolant leak,that does not leak lol.

So i was looking at my local craigslist, and i say this one:http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/5250817519.html

 

Do you think it would be worth looking into? I could try to sell some stuff to come up with the money,and try to see if they will come down on the price to what i am able to get.

 

I am going to text them now to ask if they still have it.

[desertsubaru]

I see they have it listed for a Grand. Heck even with a BAD oil leak I would give them that much for it.

[trainergames]

I see they have it listed for a Grand. Heck even with a BAD oil leak I would give them that much for it.

I have not got a reply from the text yet but if they still have it,i know i should i buy and take a battery with me,but what exactly should i look out for on this car?

[Olnick]

Looks pretty good, trainergames.  Definitely go take a look at it--get it started and see how it handles.  Talk to them about it--if you like it make an offer.

 

And remember, the $$$ they are asking for is not a hard-and-fast "price"--it's what they hope to get.  The car has already been listed for 3 weeks so they might be motivated to take less!  Good luck.

[desertsubaru]

I have not got a reply from the text yet but if they still have it,i know i should i buy and take a battery with me,but what exactly should i look out for on this car?

Read up on Head gasket problems. Take it for a good long hard drive to see how the Temp is. Check the oil and differential fluid.  Being Texas I wouldn't worry to much about rust but look under it real well to be sure.

[Olnick]

It's a '96 Outback with manual tranny--it will be an EJ22 engine . . . a real plus to me!

[ccrinc]

That's easily a $3k or more car here in CO. 

 

(I wonder what miner made the oil leak. )

 

I'd say "go for it".

 

Emily

[ThosL]

I am seeing many Subaru wagons well under 180K miles being offered on CL and Bargain News in my area.  Never be afraid to walk away from a "deal", it is what the sharp chiselers do all day long, arrive with cash in hand and make lowball offers, if they are serious about getting real market value for it they should do their research before selling.  There are many Subarus that come up around here in the early 2000s and before for under $2K.

 

But I agree that looks like a deal if everything checks out.

Edited October 25, 2015 by ThosL

[OLsubedrivr]

There are several schools of thought on low budget used cars, here's a couple I was taught; 1) if the cost is low enough and the condition is driveable but rough, then buy it, it beat it and toss it when done. 2) if the car is a good deal and worth maintaining then you need to be cautious. If you are not a mechanic or don't have a mechaninc buddy, this is a decent guidline you may find helpful, 1st be sure to give yourself at least 30 minutes to check the car. When possible I like to check the car cold, I pull all the dip sticks and check the levels, color, smell & feel. Colors should be "cleanish"; engine oil= brownish clear, pwr steering= not dark/black but does depend on type, MT oil=usually brownish but clean. Brake fluid level should be full and if the resevoir is clean you should be able to see if the fluid is clear too. Feel all fluids for grit, (except brake).The fluids should have a chemical smell but not a strong burnt odor, although some slight burnt smell is common on older cars or not so recent fluid changes.Take off the radiator cap & look for consistent color, no dark blobs,(oil) or shiny copper like particles, (stop leak products), likewise the oil dipstick should not have any frothy, soapy residue. Check the overflo for same. Are the hoses hard/stiff, are there obvious, biggish-soft bulges near the clamps & look at where the hoses end for sign of leakage. Look at where any flanges & hoses attach to the radiator for rust or leakage. Bring a good flashlight, a creeper, (or big piece of cardboard/hill-billy creeper), and check underneath: engine for signs of oil leaks, oil pan, exhaust, front & rear axles, all the boots. I give the wheels a good pull, from side to side & top & bottom, should not really pop or jiggle easily. Before you drive it keep the hood open & let the owner start it while you stand outside & listen to the warm-up. Subes usually have some ticking that fades pretty quickly but sharper, more prominent tapping that lingers after a minute or so could be a concern. Use a good size rag to press tightly over the exhaust/tail pipe,(5-10 seconds max) and listen for loud hiss or exhaust noise underneath the car,( you will hear some noise but if it's loud, there's a leak). I like to let the owner drive it for a few minutes so I can concentrate on noise and you get to see how the car was treated too. When you take it for a ride, drive it slow, find some bumps and listen, feel for noises, popping, clakking kind of noises. Don't hit the bumps hard or fast but hit them with no braking, 10+mph is fine. Finally, just drive it normal and see if it feels good. While you're driving keep the radio off so you can hear things. Be friendly, talk about the car, what kind of issues are normal but not bad, things you can deal with that every used car has. Keep your eyes on the dash for temp spikes, cel's, odometer is working and any gauges that should be working. wait till the car is fully warmed up and then check the heater & defroster. SMELL is important here, no anti-freeze smell! The last thing I do is find a safe spot to brake hard, give the owner a fair warning and tell him you want to brake hard, get it up to at least 20-25mph & give a sharp,steady, hard stop, not a crazy slam on the brakes panic, then resume driving and brake firmly a few times to check pedal fade. I don't get fussy about paint, dents, wheel covers, dirty interiors or anything that doesn't make it unsafe. When you get back, leave it running and check for noises, smells and smoke under the hood, look for moisture around any areas that you may have seen leakgae signs and listen for any noises that may have been prominent during start up to see if they are still there. If the owner is a serious seller, he will know you are a serious, knowledgeable buyer and your lower offer will be taken seriously. Good luck!

[trainergames]

Well i messaged them(text and email) at 11:30am,and now just after midnight and have not gotten a response,i hope in the next day or 2 i will get one,and that they still have it. I am hoping the fact that the ad is still up is a good sign that they have not gotten my message yet.

If not i will keep watching for something to come up,and try and keep my current POS running until my income tax,but i don't know if i can lol it had started having a very weird cooling problem...

 

If i get a reply back i will post back and tell you how it goes.

[psdsmg]

Looks like a deal to me. Just picked up a 1995 Legacy Sedan 2.2 AWD Auto for $550 in Austin a couple of weeks ago. Needs some suspension work and getting a new timing belt and seals this week. Hope your deal goes through...I would buy it in a heartbeat.

[idosubaru]

you better not put that sweet rust free, southern, cheap, EJ22 outback on here - someone will go get.

have i bought a Subaru from Texas before?  yes.

 

if it passes basic inspection - major engine issues, etc.  Buy it.  It's about the best engine you can get, particularly in a situation where money is tight.  reliable, cheap to maintain, noninterference.

[trainergames]

you better not put that sweet rust free, southern, cheap, EJ22 outback on here - someone will go get.

have i bought a Subaru from Texas before?  yes.

 

if it passes basic inspection - major engine issues, etc.  Buy it.  It's about the best engine you can get, particularly in a situation where money is tight.  reliable, cheap to maintain, noninterference.

I am trying,but i am waiting for them to reply,i sure hope it is still for sale.

[idosubaru]

Right on, I meant to put an LOL in the ridiculous commentary about someone getting it.

[sirtokesalot]

you better not put that sweet rust free, southern, cheap, EJ22 outback on here - someone will go get.

have i bought a Subaru from Texas before?  yes.

 

if it passes basic inspection - major engine issues, etc.  Buy it.  It's about the best engine you can get, particularly in a situation where money is tight.  reliable, cheap to maintain, noninterference.

 

 

  i thought the 95 ej22 was the last non-interference and that the 96 forward were interference motors

[forester2002s]

One extra check to make when test-driving:

- check that all warning lamps work on the start-up sequence (all warning lamps should work when the ign.key is turned to start, but before the engine actually turns over).

For example, the CEL or Oil-pressure lamps might not work. You'll need to be aware of that.

[mikec03]

 

i thought the 95 ej22 was the last non-interference engine

Incorrect!  There are many cars made after 95 which had 2.2 engines.  I've owned two of them.  The 96 cars were the first year that subaru installed the 2.5 DOHC in the outback.  This is the worst engine that subaru ever made.  Don't buy it.

 

If the OP verifies that it is a 2.2 engine, then buy it.  Be aware that almost all the 90's engines leak oil mostly from the infamous "transfer plate" in the back of the engine, but the amount of leakage is almost always inconsequential and except for the spots on the driveway, it's not an issue.

Edited October 26, 2015 by mikec03

[Olnick]

Just to clarify:  The '96 Outback had the terrible 2.5 DOHC--but only with automatic transmissions.

 

The '96 Outback with manual transmission had the 2.2 engine--it was the EJ22's last year as a non-interference engine.

[Bushwick]

Noticed they listed it about a month ago. It's probably gone and they were too lazy to remove the ad.

 

 

Texas has fairly inexpensive older used cars and even better is they typically don't have the rust, but the downside is most people either opt for RWD or FWD, and winter packages are often difficult to find unless the car came from out of state earlier on. My 95' just turned 187k miles and you'd swear you were riding in a car with a 1/3 of that mileage. A real testament to this era of Subaru. Even if the engine in that CL ad was toast, you could easily swap a lower mileage one in and keep it on the road. If it ran OK and no serious issues, maybe offer $750-800 cash (after pointing out everything you can find that'll need replaced; batteries are $100-150 now so keep that in mind too and might want to check if the alternator is actually charging as the dead battery might be because of that- which would be another tick in the price drop).

 

If they don't respond after 6-7 days, it's probably sold. If it was me, I'd try and actually call the number to get the what-ifs out of the way. 

[trainergames]

Ok guys they still have not responded, i think it is gone.

 

I also just found out what is causing the cooling problem on my current POS car,it's the head gasket the car is a civic.

 

Well i noticed that a dealership a few miles from me has "100% Credit Approval" my sis says that means you have to make a certain amount a month,but if they approve me, i am thinking of calling them up in the morning cause they have a few Subaru's for good prices.

 

Here is the cheapest Subaru they have: http://www.autoshopper.biz/2005_Subaru_Impreza_Houston_TX_258134651.veh

 

They have a newer one but it is $3k more and most likely out of my price range i am thinking:http://www.autoshopper.biz/2007_Subaru_Impreza_Houston_TX_258604742.veh

 

I don't even know if i will get approved,because i only make $450-$550 every 2 weeks,but i live with my sister and the only bills i have is car insurance,$66 a month for liability only,and my phone,$25 a month because i get it through work.

 

IF i get approved and i could afford either,which would be the smart buy?

[Bushwick]

The "smart" buy would be getting the car you can afford The red one might be OK if the head gaskets are sorted. I'd splurge for a 3 year mechanical warranty if you go that route. If they refuse to offer one, go elsewhere. If you have $800-1500 in cash (about what most places are going to want for a down payment anyways) you might be better off buying one locally outright. I paid around $750 (IIRC) for my 95' Legacy wagon as I needed a winter vehicle and really wanted AWD and these are hard to find locally at decent prices w/o being trashed. Paid $150 to have it towed 50 miles north, then put another $20 into a rear crossmember and $10 into a brake line that busted when the crossmember went out. I own it free and clear and it's been a trooper the past 2 years while the other car is parked. Had to replace little things here and there along with doing a full tune up, tires, battery, timing belt, alignment,  etc. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it cross country either.

 

Now, if you get a car that requires payments, any missed payments will hurt credit rating, though on time will improve rating. Bad thing is interest will be very high so you'll pay WAY more in the long run. That's how those places afford to offer credit to anyone. But starting out in life with a first car kinda thing, it's a life line to establish or improve credit when/if you are a high risk. If the car ends up needing a bunch of little things and you are already spread thin, it'll make life difficult for you, so consider this before committing.

 

If it was me, I'd find a car with a great track record of being dependable (this means the engine has little issues; a 96' or earlier ej22 qualifies but not the ej25 and mechanically they are cheap to repair; Subaru in general qualifies) and buy it outright for under $1500. The more you can save, the more money you'll have on hand if it needs repairs. Once you are doing a little better or earning more, you can trade that towards something a little newer. The best way to avoid debt is don't incur it.

 

Looking at the prices of those 2 cars, the $7000 07' is out of your range. Remember, you'll have to pay tax which will bump that up a lot, title transfer fees, and registration, and will take you FOREVER to pay that down. If you were earning say $1k a week, I'd say then go for it and double up the payments to avoid the interest.

 

The $4k one will be the same way. Figure a 10-20% down payment, tax, title, registration, smog, etc. JUST to get the car. If it needs brakes, battery, etc. that'll be more. If you were late by even a day on either car, expect to get HOUNDED by a collection service that will call you at work, call your family, etc. until you pay. Loose your job and they'll repo it. 

 

So again, the "smarter" choice is getting what you can own outright w/o getting in over your head. Not trying to scare you here, but just trying to help you avoid trouble that might not occur to you at this point. I waited until I was about 23 before buying first car and having a loan attached to it. Think car was $3k and it was great primer in how to get a car loan and pay it down w/o getting in over my head. Think I was making about 35k a year then. About 3 years later that was paid off, and financed my second car for $8k. It was significantly nicer and what I'd wanted for years. By that time I was making $40k a year, so making payments wasn't an issue and I wasn't getting spread thin either.

 

 

If you go to buy a car outright, you can sometimes get them to come down in price if it needs work. Think they were asking $1000 for my Legacy. I looked it over for a good hour, got a rapport going with the seller, talked to his mom who was 72 (it was her car), pointed out what it'd need on top of what they already knew it needed, mentioned the lifters were noisy, etc. Eventually asked if he'd work on the price a bit and we settled on a lower price. They knew it was going to a good home, and it had been listed for nearly a month on CL (that crossmember being completely rotted out I suspect scared many away) so all these factors saved me nearly $250 off the asking price. So it pays to be patient and sincere. 

 

 

 

Big thing is don't over extend yourself. I had zero people teach me about finances so I get where you are coming from. Hope this helps.

Edited October 28, 2015 by Bushwick

[trainergames]

The "smart" buy would be getting the car you can afford The red one might be OK if the head gaskets are sorted. I'd splurge for a 3 year warranty mechanical warranty if you go that route. If they refuse to offer one, go elsewhere. If you have $800-1500 in cash (about what most places are going to want for a down payment anyways) you might be better off buying one locally outright. I paid around $750 (IIRC) for my 95' Legacy wagon as I needed a winter vehicle and really wanted AWD and these are hard to find locally at decent prices w/o being trashed. Paid $150 to have it towed 50 miles north, then put another $20 into a rear crossmember and $10 into a brake line that busted when the crossmember went out. I own it free and clear and it's been a trooper the past 2 years while the other car is parked. Had to replace little things here and there along with doing a full tune up, tires, battery, timing belt, alignment, etc. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it cross country either.

 

Now, if you get a car that requires payments, any missed payments will hurt credit rating, though on time will improve rating. Bad thing is interest will be very high so you'll pay WAY more in the long run. That's how those places afford to offer credit to anyone. But starting out in life with a first car kinda thing, it's a life line to establish or improve credit when/if you are a high risk. If the car ends up needing a bunch of little things and you are already spread thin, it'll make life difficult for you, so consider this before committing.

 

If it was me, I'd find a car with a great track record of being dependable (this means the engine has little issues; a 96' or earlier ej22 qualifies but not the ej25 and mechanically they are cheap to repair; Subaru in general qualifies) and buy it outright for under $1500. The more you can save, the more money you'll have on hand if it needs repairs. Once you are doing a little better or earning more, you can trade that towards something a little newer. The best way to avoid debt is don't incur it.

When I look at the red one I will check for if the head gasket has been done.

 

The big problem is that currently I have no money until payday, plus there are no somewhat drivable subaru's on my local craigslist for under $2000.

 

According to that dealership, as long as I came get enough for TT&L, that they will work with me on approval, I did the math it it should be $350-$500 that I will need.

[Bushwick]

I updated the previous post when you were replying. Refresh the page and re-read everything. I'd hate to see you get in over your head, especially when your cash in hand is low. If you can't find a decent Subaru locally, look at other cars. The older the car, the cheaper it should be. Mid 90's Fords like an Escort would be a good buy, as would a Cavalier, or even a 2.3L RWD base Ranger. 

[roadsubiedog]

if it hasnt sold in a month at that price i would be wondering why. did anyone suggest taking it to a mechanic to check it out first? around here that costs about 80 bucks.

 

that car goes for 2000-2500 easy. i usually dont look at 1000 dollar subies around here. usually they need tires which is about 500 or the tranny is acting up or it's overheating.

 

well , maybe the seller does not know the worth but that is probably unlikely. if it really was any good it would have sold in a day or 2.

[Bushwick]

if it hasnt sold in a month at that price i would be wondering why. did anyone suggest taking it to a mechanic to check it out first? around here that costs about 80 bucks.

 

that car goes for 2000-2500 easy. i usually dont look at 1000 dollar subies around here. usually they need tires which is about 500 or the tranny is acting up or it's overheating.

 

well , maybe the seller does not know the worth but that is probably unlikely. if it really was any good it would have sold in a day or 2.

 

You can still find decent, running cars in the $500-1500 range. When you go to high interest used lots, that $4000 Subaru was an $800 auction trade-in at another lot where it either wasn't nice enough for the place, too high mileage, wrong brand, etc. When it's said and done, $4000 + 25% interest becomes $5k plus everything else tacked on at sale. So you think you are getting a good deal because it runs and looks OK, but it was traded in for a fraction of the cost. 

 

Even better is when people *think* the car is worth less than it actually is and try selling for $900 thinking it's high mileage or easily fixed issue means it'll be hard to sell. What's even better than that is clueless people automatically see a "$900" price and assume something must be horribly wrong with it and assume if it had a $2500 price it'd be "OK". I got my Saab that way. Guy was originally selling for like $800 and got bombed with a ton of low-ball offers so he sat on it longer and raised the price to $950 thinking it'd weed out the rif-raff. I saw pics of it posted (15 minutes after he relisted the car) and was outside of his house 30 minutes later. Looked it over and it was an easy $3500-$5k car. Fully loaded with leather, heated front/rear seats, 5-speed, sunroof, no rust, turbo, AC, 9.5/10 paint, never in an accident, very desirable 99' year with last year T5 engine (their T5 2.0L turbo is comparable to the EJ22 for reliability and durability) but newer appearance, etc. Was a serious score. Didn't even haggle on the price which definitely threw him.It did need a motor mount which was a known issue on those and brakes were grabby from sitting in his driveway for 6 months. Subaru had some rust but it was backed up with a list of dealer maintenance records, was perfect mechanically minus lifter issues and still runs strong and great transportation. Less worried about it's appearance as it was designated as winter/back up vehicle and obviously need some minor work.

 

Anyways, if a car has no rust and runs good, the cheaper you can get it the better. But people thinking they MUST pay $4k+ are completely clueless.  And those saying it's impossible to find good deals aren't looking hard enough. Found the Saab 3rd day of glancing at CL and Subaru after a couple days as I'd been looking at trucks first. If you know what you are looking at and how to find issues, you can easily tell a clunker from a gem. Hell, when I was buying cars to scrap years back I found a Tercel for and a Tempo (part of a deal, guys kids had driven them in college) for $150 each. Both ran and drove fine. Found an 83' F150 ($350) with strong 302 had nothing wrong but some bed rot. An 85' LTD that was just old ($350). A 97' Taurus that had overdrive failure but ran fine in "3'. Sold that to a guy working the junkyard and he drove it to work every day. Point is, they exist.

Edited October 28, 2015 by Bushwick