OLsubedrivr

Hey, have a good time, I work about 40 minutes NE of there.. Some friends race there too.

If you can slide under there, check the trans mount & shifter assy / bushings, might be loose. Have a friend inside so they can move the shifter and help you locate things.

The best mileage is yet to come, after 100K+ FWIW; new filters all around & especially PCV. I run my tires 4+lbs higher than specs. No crossbars helps 4sure, I don't use cruise or the AC very often and I'm 70% hi-way time. I never used Seafoam but will run Techron or other brand additives a few times a year. My 04 mt Foz gets 28+ on my high% hi-way runs,(sometimes 30). I don't spend a lot of time over 65mph unless the doctor prescribes or I feel the need.... I'm over 206K and it actually got better after 175K. Go figure?

Agree w/1LuckyTx. check fluids asap. What did he flush? Does the engine also sound louder at idle? When you start the engine for the first time of the day do you hear some light/moderate tapping and does that go away after a minute or so? Also check the weather stripping, maybe something got pulled off or loosened, especially on hood or maybe a slightly open window. Good luck!

Don't overlook the most basic possibility; a loose wheel, check the lugs. A just slightly loose or worn lug/nut combo is tighter while cold & "looser" after warm-up. Failing wheel bearing(s), or an about to binding/stuck caliper. Good luck!

YUP! Bad valve or worn valve rubber, bent rims, degraded weld, dirty rim bead especially on alloys and all of the above!

The peeling is a pretty common issue and affects many brands, some search time will yield lots of results. There's a few "remedies" out there. Good luck!

I love the USA! Good quaity, American made affordable tools are hard to come by as are many items meeting those attributes but this topic has the potential to be a "pandora's box" and I can't get started BUT I am scared where this great nation is headed.

Check the easy stuff 1st; plugs, wires loose or worn, pcv. air filter, fuel filter, ignition coils and vacuum hoses. These are fairly easy DIY, unless you aren't so inclined. The white smoke could be bad, water/coolant in combustion chamber from internal HG leak. So check your radiator & overflo tank for darkish globs and your oil dipstick & cap for frothy brownish gunk. Hopefully a more seasoned member will chime in. As for investing more money, don't consider it an investment, it is an expense, if you figure things out and the car is running good again then you've eliminated a lot of future repairs. Finidng used cars in the same price range, will likely need as much money as you've spent. Good luck

All on board! Got a pair of 04 Fozzies, mine look "sleepy" . Good luck/ your project.

Hello, you guys are "crazy" over there, welcome and enjoy that "sixy-sube" my friend has the H6 in his LLBeaner, moves nice!

OK, I'm jealous.... GREAT Sube you got there. Some very good tech stuff on that other site but I agree, the "open" forum area scared me. :{

Hello, keep the spirit alive in "his" Subaru.

Welcome! That's a pretty hot combo you scored and especially for you first Sube. Best of luck on your future engine repairs....??

BRAVO, that's a great drive. Welcome & see you around!

Very cool, the 1st Subaru I ever rode/drove in was a Brat, sand dunes under power lines in Juyrhzee. Hard to find any of those around here without serious body issues. Continued luck w/ your survivior.

Could be, I "vaguely" remember something about the SUS during that time. I was still running my 90 Leg wgn and wasn't looking for anything. I can't honestly say/remember seeing any but since I got this I have seen 3 others in my area and last week I parked near an identical SUS and while I was doing some paperwork in the car the other owner walked up to my car w/ key in hand to get into mine. I saw him coming so I opened my window while he was doing a double take and pointed him to his car. We chatted for a few minutes and both had similar issues with the pesky code alarm system and the trans shifting issues.

Hello & WELCOME! The 05 OB is a nice looking wagon and with low mileage like that, some good maintenance should put another 200K+ on that baby. If you put some dedicated snows on that you will have a beast. ENJOY!

Good luck on your journey w/ Subaru!! WELCOME!!

Gorgeous! That is one nice looking BRAT. The roomy engine bay...aahhh.... A great piece of Subaru history. ENJOY!!

OPTIONS: 1) Go to a local library, get a copy of consumers report auto issue and look through the used car ratings, the best ratings are usually, Honda, Toyota, Lexus and our beloved Subaru shows up too. (very few American cars unfortunately). You likely won't be able to research the older models of those cars unless the library has access to the online archives but the history is fairly consistent with those mfgs. 2) expand your search area beyond local, if the deal seems worth it don't be afraid to get out of town. 3) When I am hunting for a car, I keep the $ with me, if I see a for sale sign on a car on my list and the driver is in it, I say hello and start talking, or get the number & call ASAP. Frequently the owners are nearby and can show the vehicle. 4) I also keep a blank "receipt/ invoice" with me, so if I luck out we can get the deal on paper, which very few if any sellers have ready to do. Make it easy to sell you the car, you've got the cash, you're ready to commit and you're ready NOW. Offer the seller a few extra bucks to drive it to your location and you will drive him back to theirs. A serious seller will usually comply. I have bought nothing but used cars since 2001, (not by choice) & with one exception all sellers have gladly driven the cars to my home with the cash in their pockets. 5) if you do end up @ a dealer, 1st ask for the mechanics inspection report & give it a full look over, if you make an offer make it an "out the door" price, that means, this is all I have, I can't afford all the add-ons, tell them you will go to the MV & register it etc. If your offer is close to the asking price, you have a better chance. 6) if you are a man of faith, pray! 7) tell EVERYBODY you know, that you're looking for a used car, EVERYBODY, GOOD LUCK

There are several schools of thought on low budget used cars, here's a couple I was taught; 1) if the cost is low enough and the condition is driveable but rough, then buy it, it beat it and toss it when done. 2) if the car is a good deal and worth maintaining then you need to be cautious. If you are not a mechanic or don't have a mechaninc buddy, this is a decent guidline you may find helpful, 1st be sure to give yourself at least 30 minutes to check the car. When possible I like to check the car cold, I pull all the dip sticks and check the levels, color, smell & feel. Colors should be "cleanish"; engine oil= brownish clear, pwr steering= not dark/black but does depend on type, MT oil=usually brownish but clean. Brake fluid level should be full and if the resevoir is clean you should be able to see if the fluid is clear too. Feel all fluids for grit, (except brake).The fluids should have a chemical smell but not a strong burnt odor, although some slight burnt smell is common on older cars or not so recent fluid changes.Take off the radiator cap & look for consistent color, no dark blobs,(oil) or shiny copper like particles, (stop leak products), likewise the oil dipstick should not have any frothy, soapy residue. Check the overflo for same. Are the hoses hard/stiff, are there obvious, biggish-soft bulges near the clamps & look at where the hoses end for sign of leakage. Look at where any flanges & hoses attach to the radiator for rust or leakage. Bring a good flashlight, a creeper, (or big piece of cardboard/hill-billy creeper), and check underneath: engine for signs of oil leaks, oil pan, exhaust, front & rear axles, all the boots. I give the wheels a good pull, from side to side & top & bottom, should not really pop or jiggle easily. Before you drive it keep the hood open & let the owner start it while you stand outside & listen to the warm-up. Subes usually have some ticking that fades pretty quickly but sharper, more prominent tapping that lingers after a minute or so could be a concern. Use a good size rag to press tightly over the exhaust/tail pipe,(5-10 seconds max) and listen for loud hiss or exhaust noise underneath the car,( you will hear some noise but if it's loud, there's a leak). I like to let the owner drive it for a few minutes so I can concentrate on noise and you get to see how the car was treated too. When you take it for a ride, drive it slow, find some bumps and listen, feel for noises, popping, clakking kind of noises. Don't hit the bumps hard or fast but hit them with no braking, 10+mph is fine. Finally, just drive it normal and see if it feels good. While you're driving keep the radio off so you can hear things. Be friendly, talk about the car, what kind of issues are normal but not bad, things you can deal with that every used car has. Keep your eyes on the dash for temp spikes, cel's, odometer is working and any gauges that should be working. wait till the car is fully warmed up and then check the heater & defroster. SMELL is important here, no anti-freeze smell! The last thing I do is find a safe spot to brake hard, give the owner a fair warning and tell him you want to brake hard, get it up to at least 20-25mph & give a sharp,steady, hard stop, not a crazy slam on the brakes panic, then resume driving and brake firmly a few times to check pedal fade. I don't get fussy about paint, dents, wheel covers, dirty interiors or anything that doesn't make it unsafe. When you get back, leave it running and check for noises, smells and smoke under the hood, look for moisture around any areas that you may have seen leakgae signs and listen for any noises that may have been prominent during start up to see if they are still there. If the owner is a serious seller, he will know you are a serious, knowledgeable buyer and your lower offer will be taken seriously. Good luck!

My 90 Legacy L wgn got to the point where I had to "break out" of the car. The handle mechanisims, locks in the doors & tail gate got worn and the hatch handle especially. I put almost 300K on that Sube, no garage and lots of sand & snow fun. I pulled the door panels off so I could "tighten" the mechanism etc, same w/ rear hatch cover. In the end I had to exit out of the rear doors or hatch.

If it is the Code alarm system, they are a prolem for sure. I'm still searching for a solution to diasable the alarm but keep the door remotes operable. I have not had your problem but have had the locks cycle and the flashing, which indicates the alarm has triggered, or the door wiring has gotten wet.(hapens to me after I wash the car). I've also used the valet mode option which "disables" the alarm, sort of but will still go off randomly. Good luck.

I like those wheels! What size tires are you running? I have a very stock 99 SUS in Black. The trans has an issue and the Code alarm is tied into the door remote system, so it is a pita for sure. My neighbors remotes will trigger the alarm and of course parking in crowded malls is always a likley sounding too. Here's a pic.