jread Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 So recently I pulled apart my motor for a rebuild. Luckily haden't purchased parts yet because I wanted to see the engine condition. I noticed I have a weird style tensioner and that my year and model has come with both. Wondering why they came with different ones which is better and what it tells me about my exact engine model. This is the tensioner I have: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/aHHpFy4-sMM/maxresdefault.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 That's the 'older' style tensioner. I believe people generally say it seems to work better than the 'new' style. The reason they come with both is in a transition year they tend to use up the existing stock of 'old' parts then once those are gone they cut over to the 'new' part. You can actually use either style tensioner, you just need the mounting plate or whatever it is called that corresponds to the tensioner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 The old style two piece which many of us prefer (the hydraulic part seldom goes bad). Why?, less mfg cost. O Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Ahh so doesn't mean I have a different engine with other quirks. Cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Ocei77 would you say that I likely don't need to replace my tensioner then and can save a few $? Really it doesn't do anything once things are tightened down anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 (edited) Woops phone loves double posting Edited December 29, 2015 by jread 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 The tensioner if it's not leaking and you compress it nice and slow like over the span of a few minutes it will usually be ok. If you compress it too fast then it can rupture or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ocei77 Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I use a c clamp and compress til I feel a lot of resistance, hang it vertically and do someting else and repeat til done. Have never had an issue. O. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Now I'm debating again. Someone in van has a continental kit they want to unload for 100 bucks! Not used just didn't end up completing there project. Anyone know what the part number for the adapter is? Can't find one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted December 30, 2015 Share Posted December 30, 2015 the old style tensioners are robust and have much lower failure rates - but they're old by now too and replacements aren't Subaru OEM usually so quality can't be guaranteed to be OEM...unless you buy OEM. the tensioner bolts to a bracket - just buy the new style bracket or serach for the bracket. opposed forces website or many online or ebay sites have good exploded view diagrams/part numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Seems like the bracket is $102 not worth converting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 the old style tensioners are robust and have much lower failure rates - but they're old by now too and replacements aren't Subaru OEM usually so quality can't be guaranteed to be OEM...unless you buy OEM. the tensioner bolts to a bracket - just buy the new style bracket or serach for the bracket. opposed forces website or many online or ebay sites have good exploded view diagrams/part numbers. The tensioner that Napa can get is from the OEM supplier. Cheaper than OEM but not cheap. I decided to replace the tensioner on my '99 Legacy SUS when I had it. Was like $100 and got it there because they had it on the shelf. only place local that had it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afterbang Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 Aisin makes the OEM tensioner for Subaru. Buy the tensioner under the Aisin brand if you want to save money. Tensioner you will receive will have the Fuji Heavy Industries logo and "Japan" stamped into it. Same as dealer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afterbang Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 I have many core motors lying around our shop and if you really need a tensioner bracket for the one-piece tensioner, I could sell one for $30 plus shipping from Portland, OR. I don't check USMB regularly, so if you wanted one you can email me at matt (at) superiorsoobie (dot) com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 1, 2016 Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) jread, you already have the old style tensioner, \which is considered better, why are you pricing the bracket for a conversion??? i guess i missed something. you also did not specify your year????? but if it is an ej25 and factory stock, it must be a 96 - 97, maybe 98. the swap to the new tensioner took place with the 98 model year. i guess there is a possibility that canada got ''changes'' on a slightly different schedule. but i doubt it unless the US law dictated the change. does any one know where canadian legacys are built??? Edited January 1, 2016 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 I have a 1998 Legacy Outback with the old style.Someone in Vancouver is selling a tbelt kit for 100 bucks vs 300. He was going to put some DOHC heads on another block but never ended up doing it and is now selling the kit brand new. Therefore switching to the new tensioner could save a couple bucks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-96-97-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-DOHC-2-5L-EJ25-Timing-Belt-Kit-Water-Pump-/360421290862?fits=Year%3A1997|Make%3ASubaru|Submodel%3AOutback&hash=item53eac8736e:g:lhkAAOxy9eVRJRRm&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iriejedi Posted January 2, 2016 Share Posted January 2, 2016 Was just reviewing this post since I am getting ready to do the water pump on a 1998 Forester 2.5L DOHC engine. It was mentioned that the two piece tensioner is better, I have several of these laying around from my 2.2L Subaru's but would need to get a new pulley for that. John (see post above) do you recommend one goes with the two piece option if needing to replace a water pump anyway? Is this tensioner the only part difference in the 1996 & 1997 kits opposed to the 1998 kits? Also I've had crappy luck on the Dayco kits so was thinking of getting a Gates belt and new water pump while reusing the other pulley's since the bearings seem to be in really good shape. I believe the last guy just failed to replace this water pump when replacing the belt and pulley's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted January 5, 2016 Author Share Posted January 5, 2016 That kit seems like a cheaper brand with no tensioner. I've been reading get good quality from a reputible brand. Continental, gates, or OEM. Also to just do everything at once since when a belt or idler goes your engine is toast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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