Several years ago I was hit in the drivers door and had to replace it with an off-color mis-match.  Yesterday at the wrecking yard, I spotted a one-year-newer Loyale (91) with the original color door.  Now I want that door cuz I look like a patch-up job running around.  This is my Loyale (1990) that has the least miles on it and runs well. (93 sitting for head-gasket repair).

 

  Problem is, is that the new door is for electric windows.  I have been inside the door panels of several Loyale's and the internal structure seems that it is not an easy swap-out of innards as some many sub frames are welded and of course, there is an electric motor. 

 

   What my question would be is how hard would it be to hot-wire to the fuse box, the necessary power to operate the driver side window (run wire to Passenger side & Mirror too?).   Would I have to go back and remove the entire fuse box on the newer one?   Or would I have to remove the remaining door harness and trace it back to its origins.   It seemed that on the 90 they were thinking of the near future with blank-outs on the dash for future electronic goodies.

 

   Since I am not on this forum on a regular basis, please CC reply to    rapidfire10ring@hotmail.com

It's certainly possible. The driver's window is operated through a control unit, but that's really just a timer for the Auto up and down function. The other 3 windows simply operate through a fuse, then a relay (only powered when the key is on), then power and ground out to the switches.

 

I would grab one of the switches from the other 3 doors (as it is just one window, instead of all 4), and with a little work, it wouldn't be hard to get it to work on it's own.

 

 

It's also possible that all the wiring is there, that you could just grab the door as-is, and it might plug into your chassis harness, and you'd certainly have to grab that control unit, and probably the relay as well. But it might all be plug and play. These cars had power windows, locks, cruise control, etc. as options for many years, and frequently all the wiring is present, just not used.

 

 

 

 

FYI, if you're not sure if you'll check back soon. You can subscribe to a thread, and you will receive email notifications of new posts. I don't love the idea of giving my personal email address (any more than I already have....), and I would much rather respond in a public forum where an open discussion can be had (as I'm not perfect, and I feel better knowing that any glaring mistakes will probably be caught by my fellow USMBers).

My 86 had crank wondows. Also had manual mirrors, but I discovered that the wiring was there for the Power mirrors. I got a pair of power mirrors and the switch, plugged them in. One of the simplest upgrades ever.

I've taken a couple of doors apart. As I recall, all of the window mech unbolts from the door, so it should be possible to swap everything.

Yes. Swapping between manual/electric is doable as far as the operational mechanisms go. Everything bolts in.

 

You will have to play with the various adjustments to get window to operate smoothly, but that's more "time consuming" than difficult

To add to toms comments, compare to the other side door (thatbyoure not replacing) when lining and finishing things up.

Ive swapped doors to repair or match before as well, it's so easy it makes avoiding body work and paint a nonissue

  Thanks guys, I will probably pull the door tomorrow and let you all know.  The weather is miserable right now and I will "wuss out" on the downpour days.  Good news is they are only charging $25.00 with the return of the other door.  I would have wanted the hood too, but in a wrecking yard scenario, someone(s) used to throw and drag heavy objects across it.

  Sorry for the late update, but I did get the door on and pulled the wiring harness through to the inside.  Only  a couple of hook-up connectors were familiar.    My main concern was with the electric windows.  After hot-wiring the window motor, determined it did work fine.  The problem cam in trying to solve the wiring to the fuse box.  Apparently my friend stated that the wiring harness for the door control goes through the ECU.  Is that possible.

 

  I can jury rig the dang thing with a couple of relays and have  it go only through the main control switch.   Or I could do a RETRO and replace everything with the crank-window parts.   Ha.....I did not want to go backwards.

Window controls have nothing to do with the ecu.