rapidfire10ring
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Everything posted by rapidfire10ring
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Sometimes doesn't start
rapidfire10ring replied to vbarrett's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
This is exactly what happened to mine. I am notoriously cheap, but I also want to know WHY something does not work. Mine went into the occasional start/clicking mode and I was hammering on the top of the starter for MONTHS. Also I got contact drier spray and went inside the terminals to dry them off. Cleaned each terminal contact and NOTHING. Still me and the ball peen hammer. I would just get a dead click and heard the fuel pump running. It took longer as the months rolled on. Finally a friend and I pulled the starter (not the easiest task...glad there were two of us) and pulled it apart and cleaned it. Fabricated a new contact, cleaned the stator, blew out dust etc, etc. Back in the car....and same old shi...stuff. I was coming up on the end of my battery warranty so Costco took care of me there. And NOTHING. Back to my friends and he did a dumb idiot test with me holding the coil wire to a ground. Tuned the key and NOTHING until he released it to a return position...yup I got bit. So, hummm...we bypassed the switch with wire and the darn starter turned over as it should every time. So out with the IGNITION SWITCH and we saw the copper contacts were heavily worn. Tried to make a new contact point using an awl to push up a copper contact. No go so a jumpered (like stealing the car) solution. Ordered an ignition switch for $10.00 plus $10 shipping. Once installed I NEVER HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN. Best twenty bucks I have spent in a long time. -
Purge solenoid vacuum diagram
rapidfire10ring replied to somick's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Dave: Which years of Toyota's did you pick from? BTW, now we will have to have a diagram of where to find those purge solinoid sensors on the Toyota's too. And once replaced, wht is the best way to reset the Loyale computer to clear the ck engine light? It never ends. -
Purge solenoid vacuum diagram
rapidfire10ring replied to somick's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
What sort of reply are you looking for? This item is a common one to fail on the older Loyale's and is costly to replace on an ongoing basis. There also is a slight problem with the "check engine" light that it triggers. Most people dont have a problem just letting ti go, but if you want to fix it....there WAS a great thread here at one time or a link to it. Basically it was removing a purge solenoid sensor from other cars and cutting off the leads short on your dead sensor and joining them to the salvaged sensors from other cars. I forgot and cannot find that thread any more. I tried to google search it...perhaps someone will have better luck. -
windshield wiper motor
rapidfire10ring replied to bratman18's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Mine just died and I took the cover off the wiper motor. Oh crap, the THREE sets of brushes and their little springs. I need an extra set of hands to put it back together. -
Ea82 head gasket replacement how to
rapidfire10ring replied to Murdockleone's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I know this is an important and critical topic, but I have been searching for the QUALITY layered metal head gskets. I have seen a few videos and they emphasizethe metal layered head gaskets. I have been searching online (but have not as yet gone to an auto parts store) So, if any of you know what the'experts are talking about as far as the brand and purchase information, I would certainly appreciate it. -
Alternator picture.
rapidfire10ring replied to Rattlerattle's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Many people have found that the Loyales and some of the other DL's, & etc. have poor alternators with the high speed diode going out. Since they are not user friendly to repair a replacement is in order. I too bought a Lifetime Warranty Shucks/O'Riley alternator and never had a problem since. When the alternater goes out and overcharging of the componets happens, all sorts of things can start burning out. The first thing I noticed was the dash clock then a few other funky things started happening. If you just are buying an old Loyale, get it replaced. If you have an old Loyale, get it replaced. See that the alternator is aftermarket and watch the charging level. Anything over 14v for a period of time should alert you to a problem. -
I will do a followup cleaning of the terminals, wires, and contacts. I would like to see some photos and diagrams of the relay that seems to work for so many. As a byline this problem seems to happen most to the Automatics and less so to the Manual transmissions. I had asked also if a rebuild of the starter may help. (someone replied that they removed the starter and 'replaced' the terminals?) I drove the 90 all day today without a hiccup.
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By gosh, I am having the same problem on my 90 Loyale wagon, automatic. Only 163K miles and it sat for 9 years without being driven. I changed batteries, cleaned every flippin terminal and still happens. High and dry again today for about half an hour. So I carry a multimeter, 12.26 V with terminals removed. Cleaned and dried them, went back to the starter spade terminal and wiped it down. Held my toungue just right and it started. Nothing makes sense. Is it best to simply change out or rebuild the starter, then?
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Loyale not being very loyal
rapidfire10ring replied to devingilberto's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Visit a wrecking yard and pull another fuel pump. They are cheap at the wrecking yard. At least its worth a try. Otherwise, bad rings? -
1990 Subaru Loyale EA82 Engine
rapidfire10ring replied to bkoch253's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yea, I replied to another thread about the Loyale alternators. They are NOTORIOUS for blowing the high-speed diode and causing overcharging, which leads to the burn-out of several different electrical components and circuits. They are not user-friendly and after I pulled several from a wrecking yard, I immediately had them tested at an auto supply store. They all passed their test UNTIL they were installed on the car. ALL with the same problem. Unless you can find a non-original replacement AT the wrecking yard, go to Shucks/O'Riley for a lifetime alternator. I did and never turned back. -
Early Subaru alternators are notorious for having the hi-speed diode fail. The alternators are not service friendly. I bought several at a wrecking yard and immediately tested them at an auto-parts store. They all read good UNTIL you used them and the alternators were all overcharging. Shucks-O'Riley sells a LIFETIME alternator replacement that I opted for and I have never looked back. A failed alternator can cook many electrical circuits, get rid of it fast.
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OK, I watched the video....but what does this sucker do?
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Project: Gallery of my Subaru
rapidfire10ring replied to 88SubieSnack's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Change your topic line to identify the year and model. More searchers find it that way. BTW, where have you been purchasing your axle shafts? I have been having problems with the ones I purchase. -
I have a 90 Loyale that the wipers just went out yesterday. Found the blown 20 Amp fuse and replaced it. Blew right away......Nothing like having so many repair projects.
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From 'bad' experience, looser valves will save the engine. Noisier, but you wont burn the valves out.
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- EA82 engine
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Alternator not charging battery
rapidfire10ring replied to gap's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Just a note: Loyale alternators are notorious for going out. It seems to be the high range (speed) diode. As I have heard, they are not user-friendly to repair. I pulled lots of used alternators off in the wrecking yard and had them tested at an auto supply store. They all tested good until you used them for a while. Oriley's sells LIFETIME replacement generators. I did that and never had a problem since. Bruce in Spokane -
Loyale door replacement.
rapidfire10ring replied to rapidfire10ring's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Sorry for the late update, but I did get the door on and pulled the wiring harness through to the inside. Only a couple of hook-up connectors were familiar. My main concern was with the electric windows. After hot-wiring the window motor, determined it did work fine. The problem cam in trying to solve the wiring to the fuse box. Apparently my friend stated that the wiring harness for the door control goes through the ECU. Is that possible. I can jury rig the dang thing with a couple of relays and have it go only through the main control switch. Or I could do a RETRO and replace everything with the crank-window parts. Ha.....I did not want to go backwards. -
Fuel issue~ Fuel pump or something else
rapidfire10ring replied to Bratmobile's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
One way to check if the fuel pump is to disconned the fuel line to the carb.throttle body/ injector from the fuel FILTER. If it squirts fuel past the filter it is working. Otherwise it might be a two person job, one near the fuel pump (you could even disconnect AFTER the fuel pump) towards the engine and see if it makes both the pumping sound and squirts fuel. -
Loyale door replacement.
rapidfire10ring replied to rapidfire10ring's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Thanks guys, I will probably pull the door tomorrow and let you all know. The weather is miserable right now and I will "wuss out" on the downpour days. Good news is they are only charging $25.00 with the return of the other door. I would have wanted the hood too, but in a wrecking yard scenario, someone(s) used to throw and drag heavy objects across it. -
Several years ago I was hit in the drivers door and had to replace it with an off-color mis-match. Yesterday at the wrecking yard, I spotted a one-year-newer Loyale (91) with the original color door. Now I want that door cuz I look like a patch-up job running around. This is my Loyale (1990) that has the least miles on it and runs well. (93 sitting for head-gasket repair). Problem is, is that the new door is for electric windows. I have been inside the door panels of several Loyale's and the internal structure seems that it is not an easy swap-out of innards as some many sub frames are welded and of course, there is an electric motor. What my question would be is how hard would it be to hot-wire to the fuse box, the necessary power to operate the driver side window (run wire to Passenger side & Mirror too?). Would I have to go back and remove the entire fuse box on the newer one? Or would I have to remove the remaining door harness and trace it back to its origins. It seemed that on the 90 they were thinking of the near future with blank-outs on the dash for future electronic goodies. Since I am not on this forum on a regular basis, please CC reply to rapidfire10ring@hotmail.com
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Sandblasting alloys?
rapidfire10ring replied to dannycisneros's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Soda blasting is gentle, and is easier on your lungs...still recommend a good mask, though.