98 2.5 DOC Timing Belt Instructions

[Cat Fish]

Hello folks,

 

I am a new member here but have been floating around for a couple of weeks doing searches for some information on a timing belt belt change on my 98 Outback with the 2.5 DOC engine in it.  I have found lots on the single cams and a few links on members signature but the links just go to dead web sites or don't really give any information. 

 

So is there somewhere that I can find a article, video, or information on changing a timing belt on my 98 Outback with the dual overhead cams?  I ordered a kit that has everything that I need for the belt, idlers, and water pump and it should be here next week and hopefully it isn't snowing when I go to change the belt.  I am also going to do a coolant flush, oil change, and a full tune up on her to get her into running shape for the next 100k miles. 

 

Any help is appreciated. 

[idosubaru]

order a Subaru OEM water pump gasket - the aftermarket flimsy cardboard ones are terrible.  an OEM tstat is smart too.

 

the DOHC and SOHC are identical in installation - on the DOHC just line up the two drivers side cams and two passengers side cams sprockets with each other (they have double hash marks, real obvious).  other htan that one step - it's exactly the same process as a SOHC.  all the timing pulleys, timing tensioners, water pump, oil pump are all the same exact parts and same process for installation. 

 

that said - just get a Subaru FSM - they're free and all over the place online.

 

remove serpentine belts

remove 22mm crank sprocket

remove 10mm timing cover bolts

remove 14 mm timing pulley and tensioner bolts

remove 5 10mm water pump bolts, clean up old gasket

install new water pump and pulleys/tensioner

line up cams with their marks, line up crank sprocket mark - and install belt

install everything else. 

 

ideally you reseal the oil pump and tigthen the backing plate screws while you're in there.  i'd consider that more important than the water pump myself. 

[Cat Fish]

I did some more searching on the web last night after I posted and came up with this video.  It is two parts and the install is on the second part.  My main concern was the drivers side cams since they would be under load.  The guy in the video could speak up a little in some spots but he does show a lot of little things that may help someone doing one.  I had also always heard that you needed a special wrench to either hold or rotate the cam sprockets on the DOHC engines but he just uses a box end wrench to move them back into place and crosses his fingers that they stay where he put them.  I think a good what to do it would be to put the timing belt onto one of the sprockets and then hold it in place with a spring clamp and then rotate it to where you can get the other cam lined up to put the belt onto it and then hold it in place with another clamp before routing the belt the rest of the way.  

 

When it warms up here and I have a couple of hours to work on my Outback I'll give it a try.  On the water pump gasket I'll have to order one since the nearest dealer is 40 miles away and as old as the belt is I don't want to risk it.  It is a good thing that there is a good bus service here where I live.  

 

[ocei77]

Get the t belt and idlers/water pump kit first. sometimes they come with the metal gasket.

The passenger side stays put unless you hit it. The drivers side intake is under tension, where you just go slow until you're on point.

A spring clip would help here until you go around the exhaust sprocket. The cam bolts are 17mm.

If you break the tension on the crank bolt first, then just line up your timing marks, they won't move much if you just give a sharp rap to the breaker to unloosen the crank bolt again.

For a FSM go to New Gen FAQ. Second page under my name is a link.

Rotate the crank by hand a few revolutions after you pull the tensioner pin. This to make sure all is well and that the timing marks align again. The marks on the belt will not.

Welcome.

 

O.

Edited March 15, 2016 by ocei77

[Tetonvalleynick]

When my cam slips when I am putting a timing belt on a DOHC, I generally just have my wife hold  a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt, and I use a half inch ratchet and move the exhaust cam back.  Once it's there I pull the pin on the tensioner while she holds belt on the cam so it doesn't slip again.

[Cat Fish]

Get the t belt and idlers/water pump kit first. sometimes they come with the metal gasket.

The passenger side stays put unless you hit it. The drivers side intake is under tension, where you just go slow until you're on point.

A spring clip would help here until you go around the exhaust sprocket. The cam bolts are 17mm.

If you break the tension on the crank bolt first, then just line up your timing marks, they won't move much if you just give a sharp rap to the breaker to unloosen the crank bolt again.

For a FSM go to New Gen FAQ. Second page under my name is a link.

Rotate the crank by hand a few revolutions after you pull the tensioner pin. This to make sure all is well and that the timing marks align again. The marks on the belt will not.

Welcome.

 

O.

Thanks, I was looking for a good FSM but you never know what they are until you put out the money and find out that they don't have what you are looking for.  I looked at a couple of books at the parts store and while I think that you could figure it out from them you could have problems from their lack of detail. 

[matt167]

The factory Fsms are available for free. You need it IMO.

[dogman1955]

:DI just did a 1998 2.5dohc 2 weeks ago belt and valve job with perfect results.Even though the Haynes manual which was very helpful gave step by step diagram of the process,i deviated a little from their instructions. I lined up all 4cams double notches on intake at 6 o  clock,double notches on exhaust 12 o clock both sides, I lined my belt up on crank-shaft first used a small pair of needle-nosed vice grips to hold the belt on the crank gear then routed the belt over  the passenger-side cams came across the bottom side towards the waterpump & tensioner , then around driver-side exhaust and last onto driver-side intake which I turned very slightly by hand counter-clockwise as I slipped the belt on,

I had to do the whole process 4 times before I got it lined up perfectly and then I almost forgot to pull the tensioner pin before removing the vice grips from the crank. I was able to do this alone and i'm handicapped & on oxygen. I would recommend taking your time & make sure all the cams are lined up perfectly,even if you have to do it a few extra times. When you are done the 3 lines on the belt should line up with the crankshaft and the cams.Then when you rotate the engine by hand to make sure your not binding up you will need to forget about the 3 lines on the timing belt as they won't line up again for maybe 100 full engine rotations. Your cams should line back up every 2 or 4 times you completely rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees.If the cams line back up every 2-4 rotations your installation will be a success.

Good luck I hope this is helpful!