Torch on the aluminum to get the metal to expand often loosens up around steel bolts as well where possible.  Never tried a meat thermometer though.

Es, torch cam do it also, but way easier to go over temp and cook something that shouldn't be. Probably not a big deal for a full reseal, but I've had cases where I only need to pull the intake, didn't want to risk cooking a seal or whatever. It's faster to just let the engine run to get it warmed, if it runs....

It does run but it has chocolate milk now (oil/water mix) instead of just oil in the pan.  I don't want to run it any more than absolutely necessary.  It isn't making any angry noises yet but it has been run at least a few miles in that condition before being discovered and I don't want to push to the point of un-rebuildable damage if it hasn't occurred already.  As you pointed out, doing a complete reseal grants me the privilege of not caring if i damage existing seals and gaskets.  Hopefully this will give me an edge on the stubborn bolts and studs you guys have been kind enough to warn me about.

I caution against splitting the block unless you have experience with them. Subaru bottom ends are not forgiving. You can do almost anything you like with the top end and be fine if you aren't a hammer and chisel mechanic. The mains and rods and the aluminum case however is another story entirely. I don't care how many inline 4/6's and V8's you have done. These aren't like that at all.

 

GD

Duly noted GD.  While I have not had a subaru engine case apart (a testament to them since I have owned so many) most aircraft engines are aluminum cased opposed 4 & 6 cylinder engines.  I work with those every day and am familiar with the struggles unique to the engine layout.  If I can find a way to not crack the case open I would prefer not to but with it having run on a water/oil mix I am inclined to replace the main and rod bearings.

Oh, no, I did not mean to imply running the engine in that condition!

The engine is officially out and on the stand.  My son and I got it pulled in a few hours (his first).  Lots of "We are taking of the hood!?!" and "There are only four bolts that connect it to the transmission?!?" moments for his 14 year old mind to process.  The sort of stuff that make parenting such a wonderful experience.

 

The puddle under the car in it's parking spot was substantial when we moved it into the garage.  In addition to the 31 years of caked on road grime everything on the bottom side is freshly softened by a newly applied generous layer of oil and/or chocolate milk.  We will start disassembly tomorrow.  I called Delta and the price of a regrind is too good to pass up, so that will delay re-assembly.  I still fear the heads may be warped by the previous owner so that could also cause delay.  We'll see soon.  On a bright note, there have been no snapped bolts/studs or stripped threads yet.  Fingers are still crossed.  More to follow as progress progresses.

Edited April 29, 20178 yr by iceageg

Been super busy all week so progress was zero until today.  I only stopped a couple times each day to spray more penetrating lube on the intake bolts.  Two of them took some heat from the torch to get out but the manifold is off and nothing has broken thus far (knock on wood).  Tomorrow I will pull the heads and we will find out if they are warped or not.  Turns out the previous owner was either very hard on clutches, or was not honest about the age of the clutch so a new one, pressure plate, bushing and bearing are all on order.  On a whim I called Delta CAM.  At that price I can't not send mine in for a torque grind so that will go in the mail next week.

 

Everything is covered in a frothy oil/water chocolate milk substance.  Clean up is going to take a while and be ugly but worth it.  I am still hopeful that there is no damage to the rotating assembly or cylinder walls.

Just out of curiosity, how much did they quote for a regrind, if you don't mind me asking?

I will need to call them back next week before I actually ship it, but I believe it was $75 + shipping for the single EA81 cam.

 

EDIT:

$72 + shipping.  Cam and lifters on their way back now.  Reassembly is eminent!

Edited July 17, 20178 yr by iceageg

Cam arrived last week, heads get back today.  Let the reassembly begin!!!

Heads returned and reassembled.  Block has been pressure washed.  Cam is back from Delta.  Let the assembly finally begin.

Right on man! Hope the re-assembly goes well. 

Block is back together, heads are on.  Tomorrow the EGR system, intake manifold and carb then into the car.  HURRAY for 3 day weekends!

IT'S ALIVE!!!  Ruby is back on the road.  Ran into a few hiccups with the parts but that's no uncommon in my experience.  Can't wait to go stretch her legs and see if there is a noticeable difference with the new cam and shaved heads.

Ruby had some stumbling/hesitation/misfire issues the first few days on the road.  Once it was warmed up performance seemed unchanged from before the rebuild at wide open throttle when over 3500rpm.  Running cold or any other throttle/rpm combination there was definitely a problem.  Managed to narrow it down to the craptachi being in serious need of a rebuild.  Not entirely sure why it is so much worse than before the rebuild but it is.

 

Solution?  WEBERIZE!!!  Purchaced through Redline with associated adapters for $269, shipped the same day with a $35 high altitude jet kit.  Three hours, one trip to the parts house (for custom parts to keep the emissions system in tact for Denver rules) and some initial adjustment later she starts instantly and runs great.  She has only been on a couple short trips so far so I am sure there will be some fine tuning.  I decided not to install the high altitude jets yet because of the cam and head changes that were included in the rebuild.

 

So far the results are outstanding.  Huge difference in power, particularly between 1500-3000rpm.  Warm or cold it starts first hit of the key.  Idle rpm is 800 on cold start but 1200-1400 when it warms up so I'll be sorting that out in the coming days.  A big thanks to all of the people who posted detailed write-ups about this process in the past.  I was not able to follow them exactly but it was close enough that the key points were still invaluable.

 

Next, custom exhausts.