Pre 1995 ej22 is non egr. After that, autos had egr, manuals did not.

yup. And you can swap between the two.

 

An EGR intake manifold on a non egr motor works fine but will throw a check engine light by itself. Splice the EGR tube to the IACV hose and no check engine light.

 

An EGR motor with a non EGR intake just needs the EGR port on the back of the drivers side head capped. You can weld the old hose end shut, cut and cap the tube or there's a part number out there for an oil drain plug of the same thread count that screws in.

 

Just adds an extra step anytime you switch them. But not difficult. i've done them both ways.

Edited April 4, 20179 yr by AdventureSubaru

Aweomse! That's the clarification I'm looking for! Will follow up once things start coming apart, hopefully Friday. 

Mid way through pulling the engine. Didn't get out there til afternoon today, but made some good progress. Everything is free except a few bell housing bolts, the Y-pipe and the intake manifold. 

 

A few questions: What are your feelings on pulling the intake manifold? It's easy enough, and gets some clutter out of the way, but maybe I should leave it on and swap it anyway since it got nice and hot too. 

 

I couldn't break the Y-pipe, even with a 24" breaker bar and penetrating oil. Since I already broke the engine mount bolts, the only reason I see to break it is if I end up with a dual port exhaust engine. Could I just separate the pipes instead where those sort of 'hose clamp' type connectors are? I want to have a backup plan for when I pull the other engine since I suspect these bolts tend to seize pretty good. 

 

I can't for the life of me figure out how to get that bell housing bolt near the passenger CV axle!? Doesn't seem to be any clearance from any angle, except maybe a tiny slit top left. 

 

Also, are these bolts normal for the exhaust header? Strange...

 

 

 

The top 14mm starter bolt took some aluminum with it. Not too concerned since this engine is getting scrapped, but I hope the same doesn't happen again. 

 

 

And last but not least, take a look at that oil! Yummy! 

 

 

 

Somethin ain't right :/ haha

Edited April 8, 20179 yr by ztrain727

The best thing I have found that helps avoid snapping bolts is getting the engine to near normal operating temperature. By running, or a space heater and a heat gun, and a meat thermometer. Then carefully loosening by gradually working sticky ones back and forth.

 

The headers are held on by studs with nuts. Don't use bolts, as it's way easier to strip the threads in the heads.

Took a trip down to the u pull yard. Only ej22's were in cars with no other apparent damage. Some had already been pulled.

 

Called another yard that I've used in the past. They have a '93 with 167k for $400, already pulled. Said it was running good. Might be hard to beat. Not a lot of Subarus in the desert.

The best thing I have found that helps avoid snapping bolts is getting the engine to near normal operating temperature. By running, or a space heater and a heat gun, and a meat thermometer. Then carefully loosening by gradually working sticky ones back and forth.

 

The headers are held on by studs with nuts. Don't use bolts, as it's way easier to strip the threads in the heads.

 

 

if you have the luck of your engine leaking massive amounts of oil like mine was all the bolts come out very easy

93 is good. Non interference.

 

My experience is that most yards are negotiable. If you tell them that you'll jump in the car and come get it if they'll take $300 they'll often say yes. Nobody likes sitting on inventory for long and they probably spent about $300 on the whole car, so there's incentive to let things go.

Thanks for the tip! I'll throw them an offer. Worst they can do is refuse it. 

 

The parts I ordered are:

 

Water pump gasket

OEM Crank/cam seals

OEM Oil pump o-ring

OEM metal separator plate w/ hardware

NGK V power plugs

 

Parts I will re-use, less than 10k miles: 

 

Valve cover gaskets/hardware

Timing pulleys/belt/tensioner

Water pump

OEM thermostat 

 

 

Anything else worth replacing? 

 

One concern is the coolant hoses are swollen from oil contamination in the coolant. Are they compromised or can I just clamp them down good? 

 

As always, many thanks

Edited April 13, 20178 yr by ztrain727

Personally when we are rebuilding a motor here at the shop we order a gasket kit and replace all gaskets. 

Its better to have piece of mind when using new so you don't have to worry about any leaks.

We typically use cometic, its a good quality set of gaskets and not too hard on the wallet.

 

I'm glad to hear your going to go ahead with a swap. With the overheating issues you had with your previous motor overheating I would have been concerned with the block/cylinders being warped from the heat.

Coolant hoses are damaged by oil. Scrap all of them. Not worth the risk.

Yeah. Cheap and easy fix. They last a while though, so maybe there's a good set at the u-pull it to save a bit.

 

Simplest is to get new intake manifold gaskets and bolt your intake manifold onto the 93 long block.

 

Exhaust manifold gaskets too unless the old ones are in excellent condition.

Also, if your car came equipped with an EJ22 it is likely a single port exhaust. You'll want to get the dual port Y pipe to match. Hopefully a yard has it. If you have trouble I think I have one around somewhere.

Thanks guys! Ordered all new coolant hoses from RockAuto. $50 for peace of mind. Only reason for not getting a complete gasket set is I already have a lot of them.

 

Can someone shed some light on what exhaust headers are compatible with the '93 EJ22?

 

It sounds like 90-94 EJ22 manifold and cat are one piece, but since I have a 97 exhaust system with a removable Y-pipe, could I use EJ25 headers/Y-pipe? 

 

Since my Y-pipe bolts near the cat are totally seized up though, maybe there's an easier option...

Edited April 17, 20178 yr by ztrain727

Use the y pipe for an EJ25D

Use the y pipe for an EJ25D

Any dual port Y pipe from a non turbo 1990-2004 EJ18/20/22/25 (And probably newer) will work.

 

I have one from a 95 if you need it for $20 + shipping. You can likely get one cheaper/faster at a U pull it yard.

Edited April 18, 20178 yr by AdventureSubaru

Thanks guys! No dice at the yard where I got the motor. They scrap exhaust parts. But I'll give the U-pull a shot on Friday and I'd say there's a good chance I'll find something.

 

If not, I'll definitely take you up on that AdventureSubaru. I really appreciate it! If I weren't under some time pressure, I'd probably opt to just go that route in the first place. 

 

In the meantime, I'm going to reseal the separator plate, oil pump, cams, water pump and hopefully drop that puppy in tomorrow.

 

Thanks for all the help guys! I'd be lost without you! 

Looks like this old gal is definitely losing oil. Looks like the seal on the back of one of the heads is leaking? Not sure where the rest is coming from... any ideas?

 

 

 

 

 

Looks pretty normal overall.

 

A torn CV boot will throw axle grease all over the backside and bottom of the heads. Probably what you're seeing in some places.

 

Sounds like you're covering the common leak spots. Leave the rear main seal alone. Some get tempted to replace it while they have the motor out or due to a little oil weeping. but more often than not, they leak if they're replaced. Yours looks clean.

Glad it's normal. Not gonna touch the rear main seal. 

 

Do you guys loctite the separator plate screws? I was going to use a dot of blue, but it seems like the fact that one comes factory with thread locker means the others don't need it. 

 

How about the oil pan? A lot easier to do now than in the car, but it seems most people say look elsewhere for leaks. 

Looks like your oil drain-plug has been pushed-in to the bottom of the oil-pan.

 

It may have happened when the engine was rested on the floor, with the drain-plug taking the weight.

Anyway, the drain-plug doesn't appear to be leaking, but it is no longer the lowest point in the pan.

So that when used-oil is drained through the plug, not all of the oil will come out. Not a big problem, except that any debris in the oil might can left behind in the pan.

 

If you are thinking of resealing the oil-pan, then replace the oil pan with an undamaged one.

Good eye Forester! I didn't notice, and I'm looking at the real deal, not a photo.

 

Since my old engine's pan is in good shape, I'm swapping them. I was surprised to see how different the coloring was on the baffle plates.

 

bet the smell is different between the two as well.

Yeah, the clean one is the old engine, which was half full of coolant. Didn't catch a whiff, but I wonder if someone replaced the baffle plate. Anyway...

 

The new engine came with all the accessories (AC/alt/PS) which is nice, but it means I've got to break it all apart to do the oil pump/timing pulleys. I'm wondering if it's maybe just easier to mount it up in the car. The thought of trying to break the cam/crank bolts while it slides around on a crate seems problematic.